Hauling Vette with an enclosed trailer...
03-02-2013, 12:36 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hauling Vette with an enclosed trailer...
Looking for advice from anyone who has hauled their Vettes in an enclosed trailer.
I've never used one before and I am considering buying one for another business purpose but hoping it can double as a car hauler on occasion for my 2002 Z06. The inside dimensions of the trailer, while enough to clear on all sides of the car are so close that I'm wondering how reasonable it may be to think it will actually be useful.
The inside dimensions of the trailer are 186" long and 77" wide (at the wheel wells) and 90" wide above the wells.
The stock dimensions of the car are 73.6 inches wide (although mine might be slightly wider with the rubber I use, I'm not sure) and 180" long leaving about an inch and a half on either side and 3 inches each in the front and rear for clearance.
The concerns I have are two fold. First, with such close proximity to all sides would I reasonably be forced to push the car in rather than drive it in? Second, and more importantly, with the bouncing around of the trailer in transit will I be in jeopardy of having the car roll forward or back and hitting the inside of the trailer wall? Can they be strapped tight enough to keep them from moving 3 inches forward or back?
How reasonable is it to think this trailer will work as a car hauler?
I've never used one before and I am considering buying one for another business purpose but hoping it can double as a car hauler on occasion for my 2002 Z06. The inside dimensions of the trailer, while enough to clear on all sides of the car are so close that I'm wondering how reasonable it may be to think it will actually be useful.
The inside dimensions of the trailer are 186" long and 77" wide (at the wheel wells) and 90" wide above the wells.
The stock dimensions of the car are 73.6 inches wide (although mine might be slightly wider with the rubber I use, I'm not sure) and 180" long leaving about an inch and a half on either side and 3 inches each in the front and rear for clearance.
The concerns I have are two fold. First, with such close proximity to all sides would I reasonably be forced to push the car in rather than drive it in? Second, and more importantly, with the bouncing around of the trailer in transit will I be in jeopardy of having the car roll forward or back and hitting the inside of the trailer wall? Can they be strapped tight enough to keep them from moving 3 inches forward or back?
How reasonable is it to think this trailer will work as a car hauler?
03-02-2013, 01:09 PM
#2
Team Owner
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Look at the axle ratings on the trailer. Unless the axles are rated at 3500 each minimum, might want to pass. The cars weight, 3300 plus the trailers wt 3000 - 3500 lbs = 6600 to 7000 lbs not to count on the junk; tools, spare wheels.
most ppl use a minimum of a 24' enclosed. this one looks like a 15.5' enclosed
How low is the trailer to the ground?
and yes you want to tie the car down inside the trailer with D rings in the trailer floor.
most ppl use a minimum of a 24' enclosed. this one looks like a 15.5' enclosed
How low is the trailer to the ground?
and yes you want to tie the car down inside the trailer with D rings in the trailer floor.
03-02-2013, 01:35 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
The GVWR is 7000 lbs so I'm assuming that means the axles are 3500# each. The trailer is a 16 x 8 but the interior dimensions are 15.5 x 7.5. I can get it for a good price and it is perfect for the primary use I intend to give it (unrelated to car hauling). I'm just hoping I can occasionally use it to haul my car to the track to help justify the purchase.
I don't know the height off the ground but it seems pretty low based on the pictures he sent me (see two below). I already own a set of Race Ramps (67") and could use those to help get my car up into this trailer if necessary so the height is less of a concern for me.
I don't know the height off the ground but it seems pretty low based on the pictures he sent me (see two below). I already own a set of Race Ramps (67") and could use those to help get my car up into this trailer if necessary so the height is less of a concern for me.
03-02-2013, 03:31 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
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You can probably squeak the sides by ok but your real issue is going to be tying it down, especially in the front.
You essentially will have to be ratcheting the tie down straps under the front bumper and you won't even have room to stand in front to get that leverage. with those dimensions you will have that trailer FULL from side to side front to back of car...
16 feet is about as small as you would want to go with an open trailer and my guess is the smallest for enclosed is 18feet. Most enclosed are 20 or 24 foot.
My opinion is that this will not work for your car, sorry
You essentially will have to be ratcheting the tie down straps under the front bumper and you won't even have room to stand in front to get that leverage. with those dimensions you will have that trailer FULL from side to side front to back of car...
16 feet is about as small as you would want to go with an open trailer and my guess is the smallest for enclosed is 18feet. Most enclosed are 20 or 24 foot.
My opinion is that this will not work for your car, sorry
03-02-2013, 03:36 PM
#5
Former Vendor
Member Since: Oct 2010
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Race Ramps trailer ramps incorporate a reinforced layer on the step where your trailer door rests on the ramps. The standard 67" service ramps do not really have the correct shape to be used as a trailer ramp. They also do not have the reinforced area like the trailer ramps do.
However, the new RLL-80-2 ramps do incorporate an invertible incline section which can be used as a trailer ramp. The step on the incline section is reinforced too.
I still have a few trailer ramp adapters that will work with the older style RR-XT-2 incline sections. If you have RR-XT-2 ramps with the newer interlock, these adapters won't work. I have them available with a 2" or 3" deep step. The adapters are reinforced.
However, the new RLL-80-2 ramps do incorporate an invertible incline section which can be used as a trailer ramp. The step on the incline section is reinforced too.
I still have a few trailer ramp adapters that will work with the older style RR-XT-2 incline sections. If you have RR-XT-2 ramps with the newer interlock, these adapters won't work. I have them available with a 2" or 3" deep step. The adapters are reinforced.
Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; 03-02-2013 at 04:49 PM.
03-02-2013, 03:49 PM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
You can probably squeak the sides by ok but your real issue is going to be tying it down, especially in the front.
You essentially will have to be ratcheting the tie down straps under the front bumper and you won't even have room to stand in front to get that leverage. with those dimensions you will have that trailer FULL from side to side front to back of car...
16 feet is about as small as you would want to go with an open trailer and my guess is the smallest for enclosed is 18feet. Most enclosed are 20 or 24 foot.
My opinion is that this will not work for your car, sorry
You essentially will have to be ratcheting the tie down straps under the front bumper and you won't even have room to stand in front to get that leverage. with those dimensions you will have that trailer FULL from side to side front to back of car...
16 feet is about as small as you would want to go with an open trailer and my guess is the smallest for enclosed is 18feet. Most enclosed are 20 or 24 foot.
My opinion is that this will not work for your car, sorry
Ideally, I would like to get a longer trailer for car hauling, but this trailer purchase is for another business purpose and I was just hoping to get some additional usage out of it since that other usage will only be a couple times a month. And I will probably only be hauling the car 3-5 times a year so I can't justify a dedicated car hauler.
03-02-2013, 04:45 PM
#7
Safety Car
Member Since: Sep 2004
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I would not do it..... 24 is the minimum as far as I am concerned for a car, and 5200 lbs axles..
I race with a 3000 pound car, and you'd be shocked at how much more stuff you take with you for a track weekend.
I race with a 3000 pound car, and you'd be shocked at how much more stuff you take with you for a track weekend.
03-02-2013, 05:26 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Certainly a 24' trailer is ideal. But objectively, is that really necessary? I understand there will be many additional items I will want to take...tires, brakes, tools, etc. But I have a big crew cab, long bed diesel for hauling all those extras.
Currently, I am driving the car 3 hours each way to track it and don't have any of those extra items with me. Thought this new trailer might provide a decent alternative until such time as I can justify a dedicated trailer. Maybe not.
And as far as the 5200# axles, I would guess much of that is necessary due to the extra weight of the trailer itself? Meaning if the car would fit, I wouldn't expect to need 5200# axles on a 16 ft trailer would I?
03-02-2013, 05:36 PM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Race Ramps trailer ramps incorporate a reinforced layer on the step where your trailer door rests on the ramps. The standard 67" service ramps do not really have the correct shape to be used as a trailer ramp. They also do not have the reinforced area like the trailer ramps do.
However, the new RLL-80-2 ramps do incorporate an invertible incline section which can be used as a trailer ramp. The step on the incline section is reinforced too.
I still have a few trailer ramp adapters that will work with the older style RR-XT-2 incline sections. If you have RR-XT-2 ramps with the newer interlock, these adapters won't work. I have them available with a 2" or 3" deep step. The adapters are reinforced.
However, the new RLL-80-2 ramps do incorporate an invertible incline section which can be used as a trailer ramp. The step on the incline section is reinforced too.
I still have a few trailer ramp adapters that will work with the older style RR-XT-2 incline sections. If you have RR-XT-2 ramps with the newer interlock, these adapters won't work. I have them available with a 2" or 3" deep step. The adapters are reinforced.
03-02-2013, 05:41 PM
#10
I have a featherlite 20' v nose. The "V" actually increases the inside length to over 21' if I remember correclty. Had it not been a V nose I would not have purchased it unless it was longer. I would have preferred a longer trailer, but I bought mine used and featherlites are not cheap or easy to find used. Plenty of room though inside for car, complete tool box, tires, generator, etc. etc. Shorter does make it a bit easier to tow in tight places. I've installed all kinds of cabinets and such so there is more than enough room.
Whatever trailer you are looking at make sure it is the wide version to accomodate your car.
The one most important thing I recommend is don't even consider a car trailer without a proper winch. It makes things a million times easier and there is no reason not to have one. The only tough part may be mounting it as it requires fabrication and welding skills. The one I built for my open trailer is stupid simple, but the one I built for my featherlite was more involved. However it is probably more robust than the entire trailer chassis.
One more thing, especially if purchasing used, replace all wheel bearings with high quality timken, skf, or koyo. Most all trailers have cheap chinese wheel bearings and races which are hit and miss. I've had a failure and now even carry complete spare hubs with bearings already installed. Re-wiring is also a good idea as most is done poorly.
Whatever trailer you are looking at make sure it is the wide version to accomodate your car.
The one most important thing I recommend is don't even consider a car trailer without a proper winch. It makes things a million times easier and there is no reason not to have one. The only tough part may be mounting it as it requires fabrication and welding skills. The one I built for my open trailer is stupid simple, but the one I built for my featherlite was more involved. However it is probably more robust than the entire trailer chassis.
One more thing, especially if purchasing used, replace all wheel bearings with high quality timken, skf, or koyo. Most all trailers have cheap chinese wheel bearings and races which are hit and miss. I've had a failure and now even carry complete spare hubs with bearings already installed. Re-wiring is also a good idea as most is done poorly.
03-02-2013, 05:53 PM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Good tip. Actually the wiring in this one was redone to allow for 220v and conversion to 110v so I think that was actually done well by the original owner.
Replacing the hubs makes perfect sense and I wouldn't have thought about it but now I've got a mental note to do it - regardless of whether I use it to haul my Vette. It is going to haul between 2000-3000 pounds for its other purpose and I want to make sure the hubs are not the weak point. Thanks for the tip.
Winch - ahh yes....one of the ad-ons I would probably ad in the not to distant future. My next door neighbor is a welder and I would hit him up to beef up the trailer a bit to handle a nice winch. Would eliminate the need for driving the car into the trailer.
I have a portable generator (one of the nice quite 2000w models) that I would haul in my truck. I also have a large, lockable tool box in the bed that would hold most any of the tools I would need. What I would miss is having my tires and the rest of my stuff in a locked up trailer rather than the bed of my truck. But then again, I don't have any of that stuff when I drive the car to the track so anything is better than what I am currently doing.
Replacing the hubs makes perfect sense and I wouldn't have thought about it but now I've got a mental note to do it - regardless of whether I use it to haul my Vette. It is going to haul between 2000-3000 pounds for its other purpose and I want to make sure the hubs are not the weak point. Thanks for the tip.
Winch - ahh yes....one of the ad-ons I would probably ad in the not to distant future. My next door neighbor is a welder and I would hit him up to beef up the trailer a bit to handle a nice winch. Would eliminate the need for driving the car into the trailer.
I have a portable generator (one of the nice quite 2000w models) that I would haul in my truck. I also have a large, lockable tool box in the bed that would hold most any of the tools I would need. What I would miss is having my tires and the rest of my stuff in a locked up trailer rather than the bed of my truck. But then again, I don't have any of that stuff when I drive the car to the track so anything is better than what I am currently doing.
03-02-2013, 06:11 PM
#12
The wiring you need to look at is all the 12v wiring. Lights, brakes, etc.
If you purchase a trailer with 5x5 wheel bolt pattern I have a whole bunch of old wheels tires that I have no need for if you want spares for free.
If you purchase a trailer with 5x5 wheel bolt pattern I have a whole bunch of old wheels tires that I have no need for if you want spares for free.
03-02-2013, 06:33 PM
#13
Safety Car
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Like I said, I just listened to other guys I race with and looked at what they had.
By the time I throw in all my tools, the grill, food, chairs, storage and a small bench to work on, the 'extra' space gets eaten up.
whatever you chose to do, I would not try stuffing a car into a 16 ft enclosed.
By the time I throw in all my tools, the grill, food, chairs, storage and a small bench to work on, the 'extra' space gets eaten up.
whatever you chose to do, I would not try stuffing a car into a 16 ft enclosed.
03-02-2013, 06:52 PM
#14
Team Owner
Most trailers that are 20' and under have 3500 lb axles. This provides for a 7000 lb maximum load. Typical trailer tires for these trailers will be something like an ST 205/75-15 Load Range C with a weight capacity of 1825 lbs per tire.
My 20' CargoMate Blazer is configured like this and it's just adequate enough for my '87 coupe. With the car loaded and all of the stuff that I take to events brings the total weight to around 6700 lbs. The trailer alone weighs 2990. It's 84" wide inside and 6'7" tall in the center.
A couple things you didn't mention is whether or not the trailer you are looking at has brakes on both axles. Some trailers at 16' or less may not have that. Look at your state laws regarding trailer brakes, you may have to have them. Also what are you going to be towing with? At that length and weight, you can use a 1/2 ton pickup but it will have to have towing equipment like HD cooling, trans cooler, a HD tranny and at least 3.73 gears. The motor should be at least 350 cubic inches and have some good torque numbers. The truck will need a trailer brake controller, a minimum of a Class III hitch and a good weight distribution hitch.
I tow my 20' trailer with my '08 Silverado 1/2 ton. It has the HD trailering package and a 6 liter engine with 367HP and 396 ft-lbs of torque. The max trailering weight is 8550 lbs and the total gross combination weight rating is 14K lbs (the total weight of the truck, cargo, passengers, and loaded trailer).
My 20' CargoMate Blazer is configured like this and it's just adequate enough for my '87 coupe. With the car loaded and all of the stuff that I take to events brings the total weight to around 6700 lbs. The trailer alone weighs 2990. It's 84" wide inside and 6'7" tall in the center.
A couple things you didn't mention is whether or not the trailer you are looking at has brakes on both axles. Some trailers at 16' or less may not have that. Look at your state laws regarding trailer brakes, you may have to have them. Also what are you going to be towing with? At that length and weight, you can use a 1/2 ton pickup but it will have to have towing equipment like HD cooling, trans cooler, a HD tranny and at least 3.73 gears. The motor should be at least 350 cubic inches and have some good torque numbers. The truck will need a trailer brake controller, a minimum of a Class III hitch and a good weight distribution hitch.
I tow my 20' trailer with my '08 Silverado 1/2 ton. It has the HD trailering package and a 6 liter engine with 367HP and 396 ft-lbs of torque. The max trailering weight is 8550 lbs and the total gross combination weight rating is 14K lbs (the total weight of the truck, cargo, passengers, and loaded trailer).
03-02-2013, 06:52 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
16' will never cut it, it's just not long enough to effectively tie down the car. Even if you could find ratcheting straps that will work that short, or have them made, it'll be hell tieing it down. Do yourself a favor and go 20' min. Also keep in mind that to get the ideal tongue load, which is really important when towing a car, you need to be able to move it forward or aft a few feet.
03-02-2013, 07:20 PM
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
Like I said, I just listened to other guys I race with and looked at what they had.
By the time I throw in all my tools, the grill, food, chairs, storage and a small bench to work on, the 'extra' space gets eaten up.
whatever you chose to do, I would not try stuffing a car into a 16 ft enclosed.
By the time I throw in all my tools, the grill, food, chairs, storage and a small bench to work on, the 'extra' space gets eaten up.
whatever you chose to do, I would not try stuffing a car into a 16 ft enclosed.
Thanks for all your help.
03-02-2013, 07:28 PM
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Most trailers that are 20' and under have 3500 lb axles. This provides for a 7000 lb maximum load. Typical trailer tires for these trailers will be something like an ST 205/75-15 Load Range C with a weight capacity of 1825 lbs per tire.
My 20' CargoMate Blazer is configured like this and it's just adequate enough for my '87 coupe. With the car loaded and all of the stuff that I take to events brings the total weight to around 6700 lbs. The trailer alone weighs 2990. It's 84" wide inside and 6'7" tall in the center.
A couple things you didn't mention is whether or not the trailer you are looking at has brakes on both axles. Some trailers at 16' or less may not have that. Look at your state laws regarding trailer brakes, you may have to have them. Also what are you going to be towing with? At that length and weight, you can use a 1/2 ton pickup but it will have to have towing equipment like HD cooling, trans cooler, a HD tranny and at least 3.73 gears. The motor should be at least 350 cubic inches and have some good torque numbers. The truck will need a trailer brake controller, a minimum of a Class III hitch and a good weight distribution hitch.
I tow my 20' trailer with my '08 Silverado 1/2 ton. It has the HD trailering package and a 6 liter engine with 367HP and 396 ft-lbs of torque. The max trailering weight is 8550 lbs and the total gross combination weight rating is 14K lbs (the total weight of the truck, cargo, passengers, and loaded trailer).
My 20' CargoMate Blazer is configured like this and it's just adequate enough for my '87 coupe. With the car loaded and all of the stuff that I take to events brings the total weight to around 6700 lbs. The trailer alone weighs 2990. It's 84" wide inside and 6'7" tall in the center.
A couple things you didn't mention is whether or not the trailer you are looking at has brakes on both axles. Some trailers at 16' or less may not have that. Look at your state laws regarding trailer brakes, you may have to have them. Also what are you going to be towing with? At that length and weight, you can use a 1/2 ton pickup but it will have to have towing equipment like HD cooling, trans cooler, a HD tranny and at least 3.73 gears. The motor should be at least 350 cubic inches and have some good torque numbers. The truck will need a trailer brake controller, a minimum of a Class III hitch and a good weight distribution hitch.
I tow my 20' trailer with my '08 Silverado 1/2 ton. It has the HD trailering package and a 6 liter engine with 367HP and 396 ft-lbs of torque. The max trailering weight is 8550 lbs and the total gross combination weight rating is 14K lbs (the total weight of the truck, cargo, passengers, and loaded trailer).
The trailer has electric brakes but I did not (yet) inquire whether it was on both axles or just one. Bad assumption, I guess, to automatically think it is on both.
As far as the tow vehicle I have a crew cab, long bed diesel F250 that will tow a house. More than enough to tow 7000# with the right hitch. And yes, it does have a trailer brake controller.
The weakest link in the chain seems to be the length of the trailer.
03-02-2013, 07:33 PM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
16' will never cut it, it's just not long enough to effectively tie down the car. Even if you could find ratcheting straps that will work that short, or have them made, it'll be hell tieing it down. Do yourself a favor and go 20' min. Also keep in mind that to get the ideal tongue load, which is really important when towing a car, you need to be able to move it forward or aft a few feet.
I either have to use this 16' or none at all.
Last edited by Exotica; 03-03-2013 at 12:51 AM.
03-02-2013, 11:12 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
The other thing you have to consider is balancing the weight. You might get lucky and have the tongue weight come out right, but with that much car in that little trailer, you're not going to be able to move it around to get it set correctly. Ideally you want 10-15% of the total weight on the tongue.
03-03-2013, 03:00 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Just curious, the dollar difference between buying a 16 and a 20 is minimal, just $200-$400, so why so much apprehension over bumping it up 4' to make it usable?
