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Old 03-05-2013, 08:23 AM
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articwhitec6
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Default wilwood question

Hey all,

Was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the wilwood calipers that allow you to use your oem rotors. This is different from their full kit and I'm looking for some good feedback. Or if you have the full kit feedback on it would be nice too. Saw the nascar setup here in another thread and just trying to compile some info.

Thanks,
Jeff
Old 03-05-2013, 09:21 AM
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0Todd TCE
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This is the W6A caliper kit, originally designed by me (TCE) a few years ago. Today it's offered in identical form by the Wilwood factory. Same W6A caliper, pads but their brackets not mine.

The caliper is the same as that supplied in the complete 14.25" kit. Identical to that of many other W6A shod kits and in fact the same SHELBY badged caliper on the GT500. It's got a pretty strong following today in the pad market having been slow to catch on long ago. The pads are thinner than the more common 7420 or 7416 but despite that have 10% more total material than either of them. The primary benefit; wheel clearance. Compared to the former and ever popular BSL6 14" kit they require only .190" more clearance. Roughly 3/16".

Anything else you'd like to know? Having designed it...I know it pretty well.

Here's the original test fit mock up from a few years ago on a friends car:
[IMG][/IMG]
Old 03-05-2013, 10:06 AM
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crimlwC6
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I bought a used LG Wilwood kit and have been happy with it. Pad life is incredible. It isn't a cure all. I still don't love the pedal feel but that might have nothing to do with the kit and the kit certainly didn't make it worse.
Old 03-05-2013, 10:19 AM
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0Todd TCE
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Originally Posted by crimlwC6
I bought a used LG Wilwood kit and have been happy with it. Pad life is incredible. It isn't a cure all. I still don't love the pedal feel but that might have nothing to do with the kit and the kit certainly didn't make it worse.
^ That's a good point. There are a couple of kits that do this same thing. The LG kit is the older of the two and one that uses the smaller diameter (13"?) discs. The W6A is built for the C6 14" discs where the LG kit won't fit.

A bit more info on your use and rotor size might help narrow down your options. Both are good and viable options for you.
Old 03-05-2013, 10:28 AM
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J.R.
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Default Wilwood

Jeff,

If you have any issues or questions Todd is the man.

When I ran Wilwoods he was instrumental in hooking me up with proper combination (rotors/pad combination etc) for maximum performance.

For the money, Wilwood calipers, and pad cost is very cost and performance effective. I ran stock rotors (when rock auto rotors were made in Canada) and Wilwood caliper setup for years. Another option now is Coleman rotors.

There are better race calipers and pads out there but they are also a lot more $.

J.R.
Old 03-05-2013, 10:36 AM
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drivinhard
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Originally Posted by Todd TCE
The pads are thinner than the more common 7420 or 7416 but despite that have 10% more total material than either of them.
Thinner than the 7416, aren't the 6617's slightly thicker overall?

J.R hit it on the head, I think the WW stuff slots in nicely in the bang/buck. They are not $5k calipers, but just about any fixed caliper is going to be better than the OEM slide rail stuff. Even if pedal feel is the same, the SL6R full width stuff is going to save you $$ in the long haul on pads - if you go to the track a lot.

I've been very impressed with the Spec37 WW rings, the service life is excellent. Even at full retail price, they are "cheaper" than $40 parts store rotors when you factor in cost/life.
Old 03-05-2013, 10:59 AM
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articwhitec6
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Thanks guys that really helps!
Old 03-05-2013, 12:43 PM
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0Todd TCE
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Originally Posted by drivinhard
Thinner than the 7416, aren't the 6617's slightly thicker overall?
Oops, yes you are correct. Thinner than the 20s but 1mm thicker than the 16s! Cubic inches I calculated long ago as larger than both.
Old 03-05-2013, 01:05 PM
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Just put my W6A-R with SPEC-37 rotors and new SS Lines on this winter and haven't had a chance to put the car on track here in VA. Have had the car on the street switching to the street pads and brakes work really good. The feel is something to get used to and I am thinking I need to bleed the brakes again. (Pedal feels long, consistant but long).

I talked to Todd on here and he gave me all the advice I needed in selecting what would work with my setup. What size rims are you running? This is a must to know in the decision on which setup you can go with. I am running 18x10.5 up front. I do HPDE-3 and use the same size on track. I was cracking rotors every weekend and at $50 each then it was cheaper for me to go to the SPEC-37.

Listen to Todd he will guide you through it if you are going with the WW setup.

if you have OEM fronts then you have to go with the smaller SL6 series.



Todd, Where can I get some bleed screw rubber caps and what is a good bleeder to use.
Old 03-05-2013, 01:39 PM
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Another plug for Todd at TCE. Great guy, always gets my stuff out the door quickly and knows his products. I use the SL-6 Wilwoods and was running stock rotors but recently switched to the Spec 37 two piece. Couldn't be happier.
Old 03-05-2013, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Todd TCE
This is the W6A caliper kit, originally designed by me (TCE) a few years ago. Today it's offered in identical form by the Wilwood factory. Same W6A caliper, pads but their brackets not mine.

The caliper is the same as that supplied in the complete 14.25" kit. Identical to that of many other W6A shod kits and in fact the same SHELBY badged caliper on the GT500. It's got a pretty strong following today in the pad market having been slow to catch on long ago. The pads are thinner than the more common 7420 or 7416 but despite that have 10% more total material than either of them. The primary benefit; wheel clearance. Compared to the former and ever popular BSL6 14" kit they require only .190" more clearance. Roughly 3/16".

Anything else you'd like to know? Having designed it...I know it pretty well.

Here's the original test fit mock up from a few years ago on a friends car:
[IMG][/IMG]
They dont sell a rear kit. Ive been wondering if its possible to get either the w4a or narrow 4 piston on the rear of a factory dimension rotor?

Old 03-05-2013, 01:53 PM
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St. Jude Donor '12

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They do have a rear kit with emergency brake ask Todd he is the one who told me about it.

Last edited by r.hillenbrand; 03-05-2013 at 01:54 PM. Reason: adding
Old 03-05-2013, 02:39 PM
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jlutherva
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Yet another plug for Todd and the Wilwood W6A calipers. I ran these last year and loved them. Lowest cost brake option that I've found. FYI, I like the H compound pads with Carbotech XP-10 pads in the rear.

If you are patient, I will have a set FS around June.

Jim
Old 03-05-2013, 02:47 PM
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CHJ In Virginia
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I have run the LG kit with the Wilwood calipers and stock size - (C5-Z06) rotors for three years now. It is a huge improvement over the stock Vette sliding calipers. Thicker pads last much longer, mostly eliminated pad tapering, pedal stays consistent, well worth the $ to change out. Todd's kit is good also as is his service / prices on pads etc.
Old 03-05-2013, 07:50 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by CHJ In Virginia
Todd's kit is good also as is his service / prices on pads etc.


Bill
Old 03-05-2013, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by drivinhard
I've been very impressed with the Spec37 WW rings, the service life is excellent. Even at full retail price, they are "cheaper" than $40 parts store rotors when you factor in cost/life.
I will second this. Three hard track days and not even one spider crack. I haven't even installed my Quantum cooling kit yet.
Old 03-06-2013, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by articwhitec6
Hey all,

Was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the wilwood calipers that allow you to use your oem rotors. This is different from their full kit and I'm looking for some good feedback. Or if you have the full kit feedback on it would be nice too. Saw the nascar setup here in another thread and just trying to compile some info.

Thanks,
Jeff
Hello jeff. You are where I was about two years ago. I encourage you to get as much info as you can to make the best decision for your personal situation. For me I talked to many people about several kits on the market. This included people at the track. Talking about the wilwood W6A, many of the people at the track were happy with this option. It is more reliable than stock (no pin walkout compared to a C6Z) and is very cost effective. On the performance side, the concensus I reached was it was a nice step up but still required some maintenance (bleeding at the track) and was at the limit of the car with slicks at some high speed tracks with long straights. Honestly the affordability of this package was what drew me to this option. I only went with a more up-level system when it became available lightly used from a friend at a sizable discount.

My $.02.

Happy hunting

Last edited by cruzin2; 03-06-2013 at 03:19 PM.

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Old 03-11-2013, 08:51 AM
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SouthernSon
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Originally Posted by crimlwC6
I bought a used LG Wilwood kit and have been happy with it. Pad life is incredible. It isn't a cure all. I still don't love the pedal feel but that might have nothing to do with the kit and the kit certainly didn't make it worse.
I always had a spongy pedal even with the SL6 calipers UNTIL I got rid of the OEM wheel bearings and got SKF. I use the Hardbar 2pc. rotor, also. No more sponginess. Solid, always there, great pedal feel. The OEM bearings will go bad and, even when they are still serviceable, will get 'loose' during a track session as they heat up. ( C5Z).
Old 03-11-2013, 10:06 AM
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95jersey
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I have an extra set of H pads for the W6A if anyone is interested $125 (brand new in box). These are full race compound.
Old 03-11-2013, 11:13 AM
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0Todd TCE
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Originally Posted by r.hillenbrand
Todd, Where can I get some bleed screw rubber caps and what is a good bleeder to use.
I've seen some at NAPA, you might check there. One thing they don't supply with calipers that I wish they did...As for bleeding I just do the old pump and bleed manual way after a good gravity bleed to fill up the calipers. Pressure or vacuum bleeders are fine but please be careful not to induce air in the line with them.



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