el es tu

So I tried my new phoenix bleeder to do a reverse bleed, and it seemed like it kept getting air into the system. After the last caliper was done and I tested the car it had a long pedal...

I still have a 1/2 liter of ate blue fluid left and then some cheapo auto zone hd fluid just incase

should I do a normal vacuum bleed to get the air out or is there a trick to make the phoenix work out?

Also how do you gauge how far to open the bleeders? This last time it seemed like a crapshoot for me - half the time the pressure was building up and it burst the filler line off as if the bleeder was too tight (even though it was open), and the other it seemed to leak around the threads while adding in fluid...

I never had these issues with the pos autozone mityvac, but by the 2nd or 3rd caliper my arm felt like it was going to fall off from trying to maintain pressure in that lousy thing.

Thanks!

froggy47

Seal the threads around the bleed screws using heavy grease. The pumping can draw a small stream of air past those threads.

I prefer pressure bleed (or 2 man).

el es tu

I might try that for the traditional pull bleed that I will try tomorrow (hopefully that will get the air out)

What bothers me, is that I was using an injection (reverse) style bleed and the pump wouldnt stop getting air into the lines... I couldnt even prime it without some air still being present.

I can already tell this is going to be one FUN sunday...

Thanks for the reply!

McMung

I like this:

Has not failed me yet.

(Except one time it popped the lid off the resv.... suspect I had too much pressure dialed up.)

froggy47

This?

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/7...FY9AMgodQz4ALg

If you are pressure bleeding with this, where is the pressure connection?

I have one, but all I ever did was suction & the pumping (by hand) was a bit much.

On suction it worked once I greased the bleed nipple.

Went to Motive.

el es tu

yep that one

the sequence is just fluid can to back of gun, through gun, to connection on the front of the gun, to the brake bleed screw so its pushing the fluid in (along with the air bubbles).

instead of pushing fluid in, Ill be trying the reverse - Im hoping this will remove the air...

btw I used a rr, lr, rf, lf bleed pattern then found out it was rr, lf, lr, rf for the c6 - not sure if this even makes a difference though...

froggy47

Yeah, I think you are introducing some air at the nipple or in the pumping mechanism. I have heard of this method, supposed to push the air to the highest point.

I don't think this new sequence makes a difference, but what do I know of c6, haven't got mine yet.

Try a Motive, you'll never look back. Good bleed first time & done.



Post up tomorrow how you do.

The issue I have with this method is either

a: You push the dirtiest most used up fluid all the way thru the system to the master

or b:

You bleed the dirty out first (normal bleed) then reverse the whole thing and go the other way.

Seems like a waste of effort to me.

jlutherva

What cap are you using? I have a similar system and I jerry-rigged a cap for it since I didn't like the looks of the high-cost, general purpose cap that was optional with it. My system tends to leak around the cap and waste fluid.

Jim

Han Solo

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

el es tu

2 liters of fluid, and 3 bleeds over two days and now the pedal is working nicely and the reservoir is cleaned out!

Thanks for the input!

froggy47

McMung

I'm using the one from Motive, ironically, that is GM specific, but being plastic it really can't handle much more than 8 or so PSI before it pops off. I've added an extra soft layer of rubber as a seal, also, to help this.



I'd love an aluminum resv and cap... something that can really hold itself on...

The strap down setup does work and can hold more pressure, but is a little scary to look at when it starts to crush down on the resv.

froggy47

The universal cap is junk, plain & simple. I use the plastic gm cap but I do go to about 12 psi & get a good bleed.

Charley Hoyt

Motive makes an aluminum version of this cap also

froggy47

I've seen those, but I need GM, Lexus, BMW, and Ford. That's about $100. I think

Charley Hoyt

I just ordered the GM aluminum adapter ...you are welcome to borrow it if needed

jlutherva

I've been using the plastic Motive adapter and yesterday when I bled my brakes, I put a thin film of Vaseline on the rubber seal and that helped but there was still some air leakage. I was using about 15 PSI.

How much are the aluminum Motive adapters? The one that I've seen was $65.

Jim

SouthernSon

I like the Motive, too. Never has failed me. I had, at one time, the really expensive Phoenix ($300 or $400) model but it NEVER worked for me. I had used it on bikes, cars, trucks and what have you but it was a total waste of time and money. I used grease, even tried teflon tape for the heck of it but it was a sorry system. A friend wanted to try it, I gave it to him.

froggy47

Thanks.



The GM & late mustang is $38 plus ship, so looks like I was about $100 low on what I would need to upgrade my garage to all alum caps since I need 4. They (Motive) priced me out of the nice stuff, I'll make do with plastic caps.

TheKomoman

Just as an alternative for those who may be reading through after the fact like me, I use a Vacula and the thing is great. Hook it up to your compressed air and it sucks the fluid out so there's no chance of air getting pushed back into the system.