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Best place to get balancer seal?

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Old 03-21-2013, 12:10 PM
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froggy47
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Default Best place to get balancer seal?

The stock one isn't worth much, but I don't know is there is an upgrade seal? Anyone?

What dor c5r/c6r use?
Old 03-21-2013, 04:02 PM
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trackboss
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What seal are you talking about? If it is the one on the timing cover just use an original replacement. If it's the bolt(I used ARP), what I did was use silicone under the washer. It not only seals, but acts as a lubricant to help torque the bolt down.
Old 03-21-2013, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by trackboss
What seal are you talking about? If it is the one on the timing cover just use an original replacement. If it's the bolt(I used ARP), what I did was use silicone under the washer. It not only seals, but acts as a lubricant to help torque the bolt down.
The one between the crank and timing cover.

No upgrades available?
Old 03-22-2013, 02:07 AM
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Not sure. I use a factory one.
Be careful prying out old one if you have not removed your timing cover. There is a lip in there that is easy to break off. I found out the hard way.
Good time to modify (port and shim) your oil pump or buy a new one already done. I believe there are some improved ones available. Someone here once posted all the data of the various oil pumps with one in particular standing out in both flow and reduced cavitation I believe. Timing chain as well. Also, if you install an ls3 water pump you will lose some weight and gain a bit of room between the fans and water pump pulley. Not to mention it uses normal thermostats as opposed to having to buy the entire housing. Do yourself a favor and put an arp bolt in there.
Old 03-22-2013, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by trackboss
Not sure. I use a factory one.
Be careful prying out old one if you have not removed your timing cover. There is a lip in there that is easy to break off. I found out the hard way.
Good time to modify (port and shim) your oil pump or buy a new one already done. I believe there are some improved ones available. Someone here once posted all the data of the various oil pumps with one in particular standing out in both flow and reduced cavitation I believe. Timing chain as well. Also, if you install an ls3 water pump you will lose some weight and gain a bit of room between the fans and water pump pulley. Not to mention it uses normal thermostats as opposed to having to buy the entire housing. Do yourself a favor and put an arp bolt in there.
Wow thanks, that's a lot of good info, but I guess I really just want to get it back together & running. I have changed the stat on mine IIRC it was just a normal stat. LS6. I have the old one sitting on my shelf. Chain @ 55k miles, I'll go a little longer. The WP sounds interesting though.



Do I need to pull the spring to take tension off the cradle so that when I loosen the cradle it'll drop ok? Or is full droop enough to take most tension off?
Old 03-23-2013, 12:08 AM
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You can unload the spring by disconnecting the dampers and upper arms as well as tie rods and let the suspension droop. I have a VBP spring and it is so flat that it unloads much earlier than the factory high arc spring. However, the front spring is really easy to remove out one side of the car in my case because of it being pretty flat.
Old 03-23-2013, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by trackboss
You can unload the spring by disconnecting the dampers and upper arms as well as tie rods and let the suspension droop. I have a VBP spring and it is so flat that it unloads much earlier than the factory high arc spring. However, the front spring is really easy to remove out one side of the car in my case because of it being pretty flat.
My T1 spring is pretty flat too, so I guess it won't be an issue, maybe I'll pull it just to have some extra room under there.

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