Double Adjustable Shocks WITHOUT Remote Reservoir
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Double Adjustable Shocks WITHOUT Remote Reservoir
I'm looking to collect product and price information to provide feedback to the SCCA on the cost impact of removing remote canister allowance on stock class autocross cars. The proposed rule would allow double adjustable shocks, but not remote canister or piggyback canisters.
The most common high end shock that I see (and what I have) is the Penske 8300. They cost $750 / shock.
Koni 2812 would meet the new rule. No remote canister and is still double adjustable they cost $867 / shock.
Are there other high end double adjustable shock options?
Has anyone seen a penske non-remote resivoir double adjustable? Any cost estimate?
Thanks,
Chris Shay
The most common high end shock that I see (and what I have) is the Penske 8300. They cost $750 / shock.
Koni 2812 would meet the new rule. No remote canister and is still double adjustable they cost $867 / shock.
Are there other high end double adjustable shock options?
Has anyone seen a penske non-remote resivoir double adjustable? Any cost estimate?
Thanks,
Chris Shay
#2
Drifting
I believe that Ohlins also makes some that were recently released. Check with member Mikymu who has them on his car or take a look at his thread titled GT Transformation.
#3
Melting Slicks
I believe that the single adjustable Koni's can be converted to DA's. I bought my DA's before the latest SA's were available and I paid a bundle for mine, (about 650/shock). I was thinking the conversion wasn't nearly as bad. I think they were 3013's or 3011's, not sure I'd have to look it up at home and I'm at work now..
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Werks, thanks for the tip. I found the Ohlins now:
Ohlins ILX36 In-line Damper
I have asked for a quote on this.
Solofast, good point about the 3013 conversion. I now remember that that was an option from when I used them, but they basically have to cut the shock appart because the 3013 has a uniquie construction. The Koni 2812 is their high end shock that meets the proposed requirement.
Ohlins ILX36 In-line Damper
I have asked for a quote on this.
Solofast, good point about the 3013 conversion. I now remember that that was an option from when I used them, but they basically have to cut the shock appart because the 3013 has a uniquie construction. The Koni 2812 is their high end shock that meets the proposed requirement.
#5
Race Director
The canister aids performance by improving cooling (more fluid volume). It makes sense that trying to force more exotic fluid performance into a smaller package (no reservoir) would increase cost
#7
Race Director
QA1 has a DA no remote canister, but I don't think it's a "serious" shock.
TTX36 inline Ohlins.
Stupid SEB idea on the resevoir, I already sent my letter. They don't think these proposals thru very well.
TTX36 inline Ohlins.
Stupid SEB idea on the resevoir, I already sent my letter. They don't think these proposals thru very well.
#8
I have probably the first ever ttx36 dampers on a C5. They were prototyped on my car from PSI. Excellent product, but there is a reservoir. It's simply hard mounted to the body as opposed to "remotely" with a hose. They do offer a really slick inline version now.
In the past on a couple different race cars I used konis. Both steel body SA 30 series and aluminun DA 3012. Also excellent, but much harder to get to the adjustment.
The konis had a HUGE range of adjustment. The Ohlins are much narrower so valving needs to be pretty close, but the fine tuning is much better for that reason. Also, the ohlins are stupid simple to adjust and don't even require raising the car up in the case of my C5.
In the past on a couple different race cars I used konis. Both steel body SA 30 series and aluminun DA 3012. Also excellent, but much harder to get to the adjustment.
The konis had a HUGE range of adjustment. The Ohlins are much narrower so valving needs to be pretty close, but the fine tuning is much better for that reason. Also, the ohlins are stupid simple to adjust and don't even require raising the car up in the case of my C5.
#9
Race Director
I have probably the first ever ttx36 dampers on a C5. They were prototyped on my car from PSI. Excellent product, but there is a reservoir. It's simply hard mounted to the body as opposed to "remotely" with a hose. They do offer a really slick inline version now.
In the past on a couple different race cars I used konis. Both steel body SA 30 series and aluminun DA 3012. Also excellent, but much harder to get to the adjustment.
The konis had a HUGE range of adjustment. The Ohlins are much narrower so valving needs to be pretty close, but the fine tuning is much better for that reason. Also, the ohlins are stupid simple to adjust and don't even require raising the car up in the case of my C5.
In the past on a couple different race cars I used konis. Both steel body SA 30 series and aluminun DA 3012. Also excellent, but much harder to get to the adjustment.
The konis had a HUGE range of adjustment. The Ohlins are much narrower so valving needs to be pretty close, but the fine tuning is much better for that reason. Also, the ohlins are stupid simple to adjust and don't even require raising the car up in the case of my C5.
#12
Burning Brakes
#16
I use leaf springs. In the front the body is mounted down so the bulk is on the bottom and clears. In the rear it's the opposite. Mine also were custom built so they may be different than any "kit" setup. The mounting is certainly different as I chose to have double eyelet mounting so the rear lower arms were machined to accept such a setup. It was my choice to do it that way. Also, as they are they will only accept 2" springs if I were do replace the leaf springs with coils. They started life as open wheel car dampers they are designed to use 2" springs. They can be modified for use with larger springs, but I chose to stay with leaf springs.
Fronts:
Rears:
As nice as these are they are probably more than most want considering the cost and from experience I can tell you that I can win a race just as well with less expensive dampers. They ease of adjustment however does save a lot of time and that can only be appreciated after you have tried to adjust dampers a few times. They are also simple to re-valve.
Fronts:
Rears:
As nice as these are they are probably more than most want considering the cost and from experience I can tell you that I can win a race just as well with less expensive dampers. They ease of adjustment however does save a lot of time and that can only be appreciated after you have tried to adjust dampers a few times. They are also simple to re-valve.
#17
Race Director
I use leaf springs. In the front the body is mounted down so the bulk is on the bottom and clears. In the rear it's the opposite. Mine also were custom built so they may be different than any "kit" setup. The mounting is certainly different as I chose to have double eyelet mounting so the rear lower arms were machined to accept such a setup. It was my choice to do it that way. Also, as they are they will only accept 2" springs if I were do replace the leaf springs with coils. They started life as open wheel car dampers they are designed to use 2" springs. They can be modified for use with larger springs, but I chose to stay with leaf springs.
Fronts:
Rears:
As nice as these are they are probably more than most want considering the cost and from experience I can tell you that I can win a race just as well with less expensive dampers. They ease of adjustment however does save a lot of time and that can only be appreciated after you have tried to adjust dampers a few times. They are also simple to re-valve.
Fronts:
Rears:
As nice as these are they are probably more than most want considering the cost and from experience I can tell you that I can win a race just as well with less expensive dampers. They ease of adjustment however does save a lot of time and that can only be appreciated after you have tried to adjust dampers a few times. They are also simple to re-valve.