Olitho

I have been reading up a ton on different clutches. I have read just about every thread posted on CF in the last 18 months regarding clutches. I have even read reviews on 350z, Supra and Viper forums. I no longer have to use the OEM clutch per the rules this year.

There are a lot of good clutches out there. Most seem to get decent reviews and not many bad reviews.


My goal are two fold:

1. Get reliable and effective hydraulics, especially compared to OEM slave cylinder related problems when racing actively as I do.
2. Reduce weight to release some horsepower in my already very underpowered ST2 C5 Z06.

Additional nice benefits would be to still be able to drive the car into the trailer and reduce overall weight of the car besides moment of inertia.

I have had poor luck in getting vendors to return my call last week with pricing and confirmation of the clutch characteristics. I have called and been told I would be called back, but that has not happened. I hear they cost about $1,800.

It is hard to find info on this clutch, but here are a couple of links:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
And this .PDF from Tilton, you need to scroll down to page 15
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...1m8XKmX6GBKGvg


Can you guys comment on the Tilton and/or recommend your personal experiences where positive and matching my criteria.


Thanks,

Oli

sperkins

I recently installed a QM 5.5" triple disc V-Drive and its the bomb.
I have no problem at all slipping the clutch to load on my trailer or getting up the hill out of my driveway. It's much more streetable than any 7.25 clutch I've ever driven. I bought mine from Danny P.



Weights:

Olitho

11.8 lbs is impressive.

What was the cost?

Does it have its own hydraulics?

Did you retune the car so it idles OK?

63Corvette

Oli I ran a Quartermaster triple on my 69 L-88 because it was the only clutch that would hold reliably. However, it was with a mechanical linkage, so I wore out my (OLD) knee. When I sold it, I have used a stock (street) clutch in my 63 Z06 racecar, and my knee is still thanking me for it.

J.R.

Oli,

There is no doubt that using the 5.5 triple with a flex plate will be the lightest.

Quick accel and decel (i.e. not much rotating mass). Don't drive in and out of trailer (IMHO).

The combo, as far as driveability, and idle quality and can drive in and out of trailer if necessary is the Quartermaster 8.5 in double with rally discs. Slightly heavier than 5.5 triple.

As far as just a race setup the 5.5 is hard to beat.

Don't try the 5.5 double with rally discs (thicker than regular metallic discs). The durability is lacking with your HP/WT., unless you want to change discs about 3 times during a season. I had to change discs when I ran this setup in about a third way through a season. I guess if you just wanted a set for Nationals only it would not be a problem. It would be light.

davidfarmer

in theory a 2-disc 5.5" will work if you NEVER do standing starting, but full power slippage could wear them quickly.

QM sells all of the parts you need eexcet for a single adapter, and Danny P has that.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1634366/quartermaster-C5.pdf

davidfarmer

oh my photos are the old "Pro" setup, but mechanically very similar

Combined with an aluminum damper, I shaved around 60lbs off of the crank the first time I did one.

drivinhard

I've had a double rally 5.5" in my car since July 2010. The last time I checked the discs with the inspection cover off, they were like new thickness. This is a car that's used very often, gets driven around town/on/off the trailer, steep driveway, etc. (Stock 01 LS6 so power level isn't crazy)

It's probably the best single thing I did to the car while in PTA/TTA. Depending on the track/gear you're in (lower shows up more), it was worth 1-3 tenths every straightaway, data verified.

sperkins

Yeah I meant to say that mine is the twin disc rally 5.5 too - not a triple.

Jaymz

My car was one of , if not the first C5's that Danny put the Quarter Master clutch in. I have the 7.25" version. It has been in the car for 4 seasons of TT and Racing. If anyone is ever behind me on the warm up laps knows that I am not friendly to it at all.


I was talking with Danny about this the other day and we thought that there would on been at least 3-4 Spec clutches used in the same timeframe.

So it may be a little more for the initial purchase but the TCO will be lower in the long run.

Also the stock hydraulics work great with this clutch, plus Danny has some new custom lines made so it's a bolt on without any modifications to the bell housing.

J.R.

Looks like a few people have had good luck with 5.5 rally double.

I may need to look at my driving style.

drivinhard

in my case, when I slip the clutch to get the car going, I basically let it idle. I never try to have the car stationary and have it at 2 or 3 grand and let it slip, that's a lot of heat. and I never slip it long, I will get it engaged as quick as i can. slipping = heat = wear, the clutch is a toggle switch and I think the trick is to treat it as such, it's on or off. they aren't happy in between

jasonberkeley

Oli- i bought a Tilton through Black Dog Speed Shop. Give them a call at 847-634-7534.

Ray is very helpful and can help you out.

http://blackdogspeedshop.com/index.p...ions&Itemid=55