Z06trackman

Has anyone run both Hankook RS-3s and Toyo R888s? Did one provide significantly more laps? How did they feel? Does anyone have a better recommendation for a low cost/lap tire. I am running stock wheels. I tried used slicks, but they will not work with the stock bushings I need for Solo II (not nearly enough dynamic chamber - quickly corded the outside while lots of rubber remains on the inside). Thanks.

blkbrd69

Sounds like you need a set of PSS, RE-11 or NT-05.

wtb-z

RS3 lasts a long time - should be good for something like 10 track days but that will really vary based on distance per day.

Needs a lot of camber on stock bushings.

Supercharged111

Track days or weekends? I was hoping to see NT05 on the list, just got some myself. One measure I took was going to a square setup so I can rotate them as the rears died before the fronts on the stock wheels. Probably need to keep myself in check, but it sure was fun.

wtb-z

10 weekends is probably optimistic. But I got 10 time trial events and a summer of driving out of last year's set.

The NT05 seems to be among the worst of the "extreme performance" streets in terms of speed or heat cycle capacity, but I think they wear okay.

Supercharged111

Which is probably why they're the cheapest, but they can't be worse than the RE760 that came on the car. I did 5 events last year and this year for the first one I was absolutely on ice skates, I think they were cycled out. And bald, but cycled out likely being the cause for their sensitivity. I ASSume when speaking of street tires that the bushings aren't as imperative as with stickers? They're high up on the list, but behind a few maintenance and durability mods.

sothpaw2

I used to get 10 days (5 2 day events) out of Nitto-RII before cord. NT01 is the same compound. I'd recommend.

X25

Michelin PSS tires last very long doing track duty. In fact, Michelin claims they last 50% longer than their predecessor at the track (PS2).

hklvette

I have them. No track days, just autocrosses. The "thin" tread mold that nitto uses on them tolerates hard use really well (similar to the Rival). I'm not sure about their heat cycle longevity, but can tell you that they don't work well cold, and its fairly easy to tell when they get into the operating temperature range. If I were competing at national level auto-x I wouldn't necessarily want them, but if you're doing HPDE (no times) or local autocross I think they're fine because they do "okay" and are cheap.

my $.02

txoutlaw55

I ran the RS-3s last year. They stick better than any street tire I've ever had. 95% autocross, 3% street and 2% track. They held up extremely well--I think they made 12 weekends, a tour thru the countryside and 1 parade. I let my father use them on his C5Z and one of the fronts corded--needed more camber in the front of his car.

If you can find any rated 140 tread wear buy them--the new ones are rated at 200 and I'm afraid they won't stick as well. Time will tell. Hankook has the 255/40-17 back ordered until June. I plan on purchasing another set when they come available, but I picked up some scrub R888s to hold me over until then. I'll report back my findings...

If you want a cost effective tire, check out the Hankook Z214. It's a race tire, but you should be in a set for about $900. Different compounds are available for track or autocross. The ones I have seen put a stock C5Z setting lower lap times than a modded C5Z. It might be worth looking at, but that's just my $.02

X25

Tread wear number is no longer a reliable indicator, even within same brand's tire models. For instance, PSS tires are rated 300, yet are stickier than their predecessor, PS2, rated at 220! Well, you'll need a tire that bends the rules like that to find the longest lasting tire for track duty anyway

tomiboy

I don't think the tire will change..just the rating for class legality

Ludedude

Exactly. It's just done so that the tire doesn't become illegal to use in ST class for SCCA and/or other sanctioning bodies. Toyo RA1s went through the same thing in the mid-2000s. The printed rating went from 80 to 100 for the purpose of remaining legal for Spec Miata. The compound did not change. It's all just bs loopholes.

http://www.sccaforums.com/forums/aft/443549

HHughes1

Z 214's (C51 compound) are a great DOT slick for the money but they still need at least 3 degrees negative to keep the fronts from doing this. These were on a C63 with 1.5 degree negative for 3 track days.

JeremyGSU

That's good wear. This will be weighed heavily on the track you're on. I am only getting 3 2-day events out of my rears before they are toast at Sebring. Getting around 4 2-day events for the fronts.

Zak77

But looks like they do not come in sizes for Z06 rims. Widest is only 285 rear and 255 fronts.

wtb-z

Should work fine. Ran 285 x 4 last year - they are very sloppy tire so you want to pull them over a relatively wide wheel. 9.5/10.5 for 255/285 would be about ideal - probably very little to be gained from a wider RS3 on Z06 wheels.

Zak77

I found a local shop that would sell me the RS3's for $864 out the door. Debating on these or NT05's. I can get the NT05's in a wider tire, which will look better but not sure if they are better tires for both street/track use. I do drive my C5 quite a bit on the road and want a tire that will last at least 10K miles a year on the road and 5 HPDE events.

sothpaw2

Part of how I got that much wear was by frequent rotation. I'd rotate left-to-right after the first day of a 2 day event. Then I'd pay to have them flipped on the rim if wear was getting too uneven.

Was the 4 days on the fronts using 305-35-18 fronts? How much faster(I recall your post that it helped) per lap did you gain from going to 305 fronts vs 275 fronts? The car would push less I'm sure and maybe would not be in the ABS as much in the braking zones. I am in the ABS all the way in at Summit into T1.