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Trailer and tie down help

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Old 08-10-2013, 10:10 PM
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Nsomniac
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Default Trailer and tie down help

I am finally ditching the tire trailer I pull behind the vette and stepping into an 18' dovetail open deck trailer. I have searched everywhere on here and come to the conclusion that I want to use the T-hook method to tie down, and I will use flat snap hooks to secure the T-hooks.

My issue is how I connect the other end to the trailer. I don't have D rings, so I have to rely on the stake pockets. Is it safe to assume I don't want to use the snap hooks on those stake pockets? I can buy flat hook components separately and attach them to the ratchets if necessary, but do I need to? Any help is much appreciated. I haven't ever towed a car before, so pretty much everything I know is from this forum and various other reading / watching videos.

Cheers!
Old 08-11-2013, 03:54 AM
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1991Z07
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Easy enough to add the D-hook tie downs. I personally wouldn't trust stake pockets.
Old 08-11-2013, 04:13 AM
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Unfortunately I am not a welder, and don't know if I can get that done in time.
Old 08-11-2013, 06:19 AM
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1991Z07
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Originally Posted by Nsomniac
Unfortunately I am not a welder, and don't know if I can get that done in time.
Mine were bolted in place in my enclosed trailer. Had a wreck with a car inside...doing 65 mph and it stopped dead in about 4 feet when the van hit the front corner.

Ripped the straps...but the d-rings were all still in place.

You just need grade 8 bolts...get it welded afterwards when you have the time to do so.
Old 08-11-2013, 10:57 AM
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UrbanKnight
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No issue with grade 8 bolts and d rings unless you bolt to some really bad material....

Just buya set of d rings and some good hardware (some d rings include the hardware) and you would be good.

Or, swing by any trailer shop, and they can tack them on relatively easilily
Old 08-11-2013, 04:05 PM
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RDnomorecobra
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you don't want to buy one set of straps for now and another later. so either get the D rings welded on now, or bolt them on but in the same basic position that you will weld them later. you will likely want twisted end snap hooks on the fixed, D ring side, and like you stated, flat snap hooks on the car side with T hooks. I love that set up, each strap perfectly flat, no twist and no rubbing against each other. car is solid as a rock on my trailer.
Old 08-12-2013, 01:32 PM
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I'm going D-rings, twisted T hooks, and twisted snap hooks. Only problem I am running into right now is that I can't find long enough straps anywhere online that has the T hooks too. I'm paying for second day air to get it here before Friday, so I don't want to split the shipment. Anyone have a line on straps and T hooks? Everywhere that has them sells the straps in 8 foot options. I'm thinking that by the time I cross the straps and run them to the front / rear, I'm going to need at least 15 foot straps. Thoughts?
Old 08-12-2013, 01:55 PM
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UrbanKnight
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I use 8' straps on my 18' trailer with no issues. However, that also depends on your attachment points. My points are about 2' in on the front and back, if you are using stake puckers for now, length may be an issue, but the solution is not to cross strap, as there is little proven need for cross strapping. Use your t hooks and just anchor to the closest point and you won't have any issues.
Old 08-12-2013, 03:44 PM
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RDnomorecobra
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my attachment points are at the end of my 18' runners so I use 10' straps. Mac Custom tie downs. Get the t-hooks separate from Northern tool. The ones MAc's sells have a chain link in them which twist them another 90 degrees.
Old 08-12-2013, 03:55 PM
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Han Solo
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I tow a 18' open trailer with a Mustang on it and have used the stake pockets with flat hooks for years without any issues.
Old 08-12-2013, 04:49 PM
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Well, I managed to pick up mac 10' straps and T hooks from summit for $175. Hopefully everything works out. Now I just have to modify the deck enough to open my doors over the fender.
Old 08-12-2013, 05:27 PM
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1991Z07
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Originally Posted by Nsomniac
Well, I managed to pick up mac 10' straps and T hooks from summit for $175. Hopefully everything works out. Now I just have to modify the deck enough to open my doors over the fender.
Most people just put sections of 2x12 under the tires to raise the car enough to clear the fenders...usually 1 (sometimes 2) high. Bevel the edges at 45 deg...make the second layer shorter in length than the bottom layer. Works great...cheap temp solution.

Bolt them down...good to go.
Old 08-12-2013, 08:10 PM
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Han Solo
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Originally Posted by 1991Z07
Most people just put sections of 2x12 under the tires to raise the car enough to clear the fenders...usually 1 (sometimes 2) high. Bevel the edges at 45 deg...make the second layer shorter in length than the bottom layer. Works great...cheap temp solution.

Bolt them down...good to go.
That's exactly what I did with mine. Drill the boards and deck and use 1/4" carriage bolts. Not the prettiest mod but it is functional. Mine have been on for over 6 years with no loosening or deterioration.
Old 08-12-2013, 08:37 PM
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1991Z07
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Originally Posted by Han Solo
That's exactly what I did with mine. Drill the boards and deck and use 1/4" carriage bolts. Not the prettiest mod but it is functional. Mine have been on for over 6 years with no loosening or deterioration.
The best part is it isn't "permanent"...if you need to use the trailer for anything else it is easy to get it back to a standard setup.
Old 08-13-2013, 12:30 PM
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Here is a couple of pictures showing my boards and the straps hooked to the stake pockets.



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