Slight grooving from Hawk hp+ pads? Video.
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Slight grooving from Hawk hp+ pads? Video.
What do you think? Normal?
With the exception of these minor grooves The pads are 100% OK for street/auto so far as I am concerned.
Comments?
With the exception of these minor grooves The pads are 100% OK for street/auto so far as I am concerned.
Comments?
Last edited by froggy47; 08-14-2013 at 12:36 PM.
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
The grooves do not seem to be any worse after a couple of events.
My guess is that there is a quality control issue on the granular size of some of the compound material they use.
Good price, though, I'd probably get them again.
#4
Supporting Vendor
Sorry Ernie, I reposted the link, it should be ok now. Sometimes the copy/paste doesn't work right the first time.
The grooves do not seem to be any worse after a couple of events.
My guess is that there is a quality control issue on the granular size of some of the compound material they use.
Good price, though, I'd probably get them again.
The grooves do not seem to be any worse after a couple of events.
My guess is that there is a quality control issue on the granular size of some of the compound material they use.
Good price, though, I'd probably get them again.
#7
Melting Slicks
Hi Bob,
Check out my thread. Basically I needed to bed in the pads. I figured it was just an autocross, and it should bed them in driving on the course. Didn't work out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-of-rotor.html
Steve A.
Check out my thread. Basically I needed to bed in the pads. I figured it was just an autocross, and it should bed them in driving on the course. Didn't work out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-of-rotor.html
Steve A.
#8
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Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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#10
Race Director
Thread Starter
I spoke at length with a hawk tech today. He says they shouldn't do that. He thinks that cleaning up the used rotor is not enough & thinks I should have turned them. I can't really argue that, but they DID bed in ok & no glaze. They stop fine. BTW the grooves came after bedding in and b4 I did competition. Just 2 weeks of street driving.
fwiw
fwiw
#11
Safety Car
I ran Hawk HPS on my truck and switched to Hawk LTS. I like the LTS better than the HPS, but both have caused the grooves in the rotors that you've seen on your car. Nothing I've worried myself about just yet, the pedal feel is still great.
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
I have come up with a theory on this.
I did not turn the rotor so there was a small lip left behind.
The NEW pad made contact with the lip before it "broke it" and conformed it's shape to the rotor (lip) shape.
During the 2 weeks of street driving this slight uneven pressing of the pad to the rotor caused some unusual wear (for a reason unknown to me) and resulted in the slight grooves.
Now that the pad has worn & conformed to the rotor all is as normal.
Conclusion, turn rotors, don't leave lip. Or you could grind a little off the pad area where it will contact the lip.
What do you guys think???
Just got off the phone with tech support, he showed the vid to another guy or 2 at Hawk & they think it's likely the rotor wear is not uniform, probably thinner at the out edge & causing the uneven wear/grooving. I guess I should have turned the rotors, but it's really not that bad. I could throw some fresh rotors on maybe, the pads are still just about new.
Cheers!
I did not turn the rotor so there was a small lip left behind.
The NEW pad made contact with the lip before it "broke it" and conformed it's shape to the rotor (lip) shape.
During the 2 weeks of street driving this slight uneven pressing of the pad to the rotor caused some unusual wear (for a reason unknown to me) and resulted in the slight grooves.
Now that the pad has worn & conformed to the rotor all is as normal.
Conclusion, turn rotors, don't leave lip. Or you could grind a little off the pad area where it will contact the lip.
What do you guys think???
Just got off the phone with tech support, he showed the vid to another guy or 2 at Hawk & they think it's likely the rotor wear is not uniform, probably thinner at the out edge & causing the uneven wear/grooving. I guess I should have turned the rotors, but it's really not that bad. I could throw some fresh rotors on maybe, the pads are still just about new.
Cheers!
Last edited by froggy47; 08-15-2013 at 03:24 PM.
#13
Instructor
I run HP+ as well. I get that some times as well with fresh sets. One round of autox or some lapping and the problem goes away.
I run white box rotors so they are cheap enough to replace when ever I feel like it.
Sounds like you have a logical and reasonable theory going there.
I just wish the HP+ didn't dust so much. Oh well, the stopping power is worth it IMHO. Wheel cleaner is cheap enough.
I run white box rotors so they are cheap enough to replace when ever I feel like it.
Sounds like you have a logical and reasonable theory going there.
I just wish the HP+ didn't dust so much. Oh well, the stopping power is worth it IMHO. Wheel cleaner is cheap enough.
#14
Race Director
Thread Starter
I run HP+ as well. I get that some times as well with fresh sets. One round of autox or some lapping and the problem goes away.
I run white box rotors so they are cheap enough to replace when ever I feel like it.
Sounds like you have a logical and reasonable theory going there.
I just wish the HP+ didn't dust so much. Oh well, the stopping power is worth it IMHO. Wheel cleaner is cheap enough.
I run white box rotors so they are cheap enough to replace when ever I feel like it.
Sounds like you have a logical and reasonable theory going there.
I just wish the HP+ didn't dust so much. Oh well, the stopping power is worth it IMHO. Wheel cleaner is cheap enough.
Yes they are dirty pads, but (and I'm not a fanatic on clean wheels) so far I've always been able to clean them off ever couple of months or so.
#15
Overheating the pad material.
I overheated some Hawk HT-10s in one session and both the rotor and pads has massive (1mm) deep grooves. Both the rotors and pads were wasted. I always ran DTC60s but they only had the HT10s in stock. I'll never do that again.
You don't run hp+ on track do you? This is just for autox right? You would want a more aggressive pad for track than HP+.
I overheated some Hawk HT-10s in one session and both the rotor and pads has massive (1mm) deep grooves. Both the rotors and pads were wasted. I always ran DTC60s but they only had the HT10s in stock. I'll never do that again.
You don't run hp+ on track do you? This is just for autox right? You would want a more aggressive pad for track than HP+.
#17
Race Director
Thread Starter
Overheating the pad material.
I overheated some Hawk HT-10s in one session and both the rotor and pads has massive (1mm) deep grooves. Both the rotors and pads were wasted. I always ran DTC60s but they only had the HT10s in stock. I'll never do that again.
You don't run hp+ on track do you? This is just for autox right? You would want a more aggressive pad for track than HP+.
I overheated some Hawk HT-10s in one session and both the rotor and pads has massive (1mm) deep grooves. Both the rotors and pads were wasted. I always ran DTC60s but they only had the HT10s in stock. I'll never do that again.
You don't run hp+ on track do you? This is just for autox right? You would want a more aggressive pad for track than HP+.
I don't think so because all I did was break them in & street drive 2 weeks b4 the event. Then when I changed wheels (a6) I noticed the grooves.
Of course hp+ are NOT track pads, except maybe for the greenest novice. Maybe.
#18
Burning Brakes
Unusual wear pattern for auto-xing. That the grooving appears to be from your pad's compound is perplexing also. (I've had similar grooving appear after going off line and picking up the sand and grit left there from running on concrete. Just had to clean the pads to rid myself of the embedded small stones.) The only real problem I've had with HP+ pads is the amount of dusting I get during auto-x and street driving. (I end up cleaning the wheels about every two weeks or so.)
I'm a dedicated Hawk brake pad user so I really don't have anything to recommend for auto-xing other than the HP+. You might want to contact CarboTech Adam who supports this forum to see if he has any recommendations. I know a lot of my C5 buddies use CarboTech pads and seem to be happy.
Good Luck resolving the problem.
I'm a dedicated Hawk brake pad user so I really don't have anything to recommend for auto-xing other than the HP+. You might want to contact CarboTech Adam who supports this forum to see if he has any recommendations. I know a lot of my C5 buddies use CarboTech pads and seem to be happy.
Good Luck resolving the problem.
#19
Supporting Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
This
Smarter construction.
Only Carbotech uses a proprietary Ceramic and Metallic brake construction, not the carbon and iron used in conventional brake systems. Since carbon and iron combine to form carbide, which is used in cutting tools, you can imagine what those brakes are doing to your rotors.
Smarter construction.
Only Carbotech uses a proprietary Ceramic and Metallic brake construction, not the carbon and iron used in conventional brake systems. Since carbon and iron combine to form carbide, which is used in cutting tools, you can imagine what those brakes are doing to your rotors.
__________________
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
#20
Race Director
Thread Starter
This
Smarter construction.
Only Carbotech uses a proprietary Ceramic and Metallic brake construction, not the carbon and iron used in conventional brake systems. Since carbon and iron combine to form carbide, which is used in cutting tools, you can imagine what those brakes are doing to your rotors.
Smarter construction.
Only Carbotech uses a proprietary Ceramic and Metallic brake construction, not the carbon and iron used in conventional brake systems. Since carbon and iron combine to form carbide, which is used in cutting tools, you can imagine what those brakes are doing to your rotors.
I may try some of yours when I wear these out. Do they ever go on sale, they are a tad pricier than the Hawk.