yow

I've been doing HPDE for a few years in my 06 ls2 with A&A sc. It's been great and have had no mechanical issues. I got c5z rims and R6s that I'm going to use at Putnam Park in October. I've never driven slicks and would like some input on what to expect. Your thoughts?

Should I be too worried about oiling issues or anything else at Putnam? It's a stock motor, but for the A&A sc, Z06 transmission, and widebooty. I love this car and it has been a dream. I just don't want to bite off more than it can chew.

waddisme

You can put an accusump in for cheap insurance motor. Also, might as well prepare for new front hubs, brake upgrade. and other things that will manifest itself quickly. BTW, enjoy !!!!

taken19

The biggest difference between street tires and slicks is that you can no longer rely on noise to tell you that the tires are at their limit. The R6's make very little noise (only when cold), so you have to rely on the feel through the steering wheel. Tire breakaway is still progressive but they will call off faster than street tires. You will have to learn to throttle steer as well.

I gotta tell ya, Hoosiers are like crack - extremely adicting! You will never want to go back...

crease-guard

I echo the stuff above, especially the last part. One other thing is as you get more and more comfortable and more and more aggresive, you will, like most, start to have issues with the eccentrics. The loads on the front lower control arms are great enough it can pull those alignment bolts out. When it does, you'll cord those front tires (ask me how I know). The other thing it can do, if it goes on long enough, you can damage the milling in the cradle so that nothing will keep the eccentrics or a camber plate in place. I wouldn't worry about it your first time or two out but look into getting a camber kit installed. They aren't expensive, plus it will give you a lot more adjustment for adding negative camber.

Werks

Agree with all of the comments above. If you have not already done so look into Pfadt, DRM or LG camber kit. This will get rid of your eccentrics and allow you to really lock in your alignment. Also just to clarify R6's are considered Dot-R tires, not full slicks. So they are in essence an intermediate tire as in a step up on grip compared to traditional treaded tires but a step down from full slicks. The amount of grip that they will give compared to treaded tires will feel amazing. Also they are pretty progressive as far as how they break loose especially compared to full slicks. They will not howl like treaded tires but you will get the feeling of driving on marbles so a little bit of slip before they break loose. The increase in grip is addictive! Another thing make sure that you are running a more race oriented alignment or else you are going to quickly cord the outer edges of your tires. I'd probably run at least -2 deg. camber on the front and -1.5 on the rear to start with especially if you are running stock bushings. If you plan on continuing to run Dot-R's switch to poly bushings because you are going to get a lot of flex in your rubber bushings which will change your alignment.

yow

Thank you, all, for the great input. I'll look into the camber kits, now. I have paid for 3 alignments over the last three years, trying to get it right. I drive the car on the street, so I didn't want it to be too aggressive. However, I see the necessity with the added grip of R-compound tires. I'll have to look a my notes to see how close I am to the -2/-1.5 recommended. I've got the z51 brakes with carbotech 10/8 pads that I swap in before hitting the track.

You guys are getting me excited about the addiction! Just makes me wish I had a dedicated track car!

taken19

First, learn to do your own alignments - its pretty simple (especially with a camber kit) and will save you time and money in the long run. David Farmer has a great write-up that can be done with a couple tape measures, a digital level and a straight edge. Once the camber kit is installed, you just swap camber plates and dial in the tie rods XX flats and you're done. One flat on each tie rod is just over 1/32" total toe. If you adjust each side one flat it will be just over 1/16" toe change total.

Also, without poly bushings, you will want to be closer to -3.0 front and -2.0 rear on the camber. The stock ones will flex greatly on hard cornering and probably take 1.0-2.0 degrees out of your camber dynamically.

I wouldn't run XP-10/8 with R6's - if you drive aggressively you will melt the pads. I smeared the pads badly when running R6's and XP-10/8 combo (with foglight brake cooling nonetheless!) on stock Z51 calipers. I would step up to 12/10 or better on Hoosiers. I ran both the XP-16/10 and 20/10 combo with good results.

Lastly, with the Hoosiers and upgraded brake pads, keep an eye on top to bottom pad taper. That is a sign of caliper spread and will give you big problems if not addressed quickly (again, ask me how I know). The Hoosiers will allow you to brake much harder and later, creating extra heat. The stock Z51 calipers won't be able to take that for long and you will begin burning through a set of pads every 1-2 track days.

It's a slippery slope my friend... the faster you go, the deeper your pockets need to be to keep up with you. At some point, you will realize that your wallet cannot keep up with your right foot. It's a great sport but pricey - as long as you understand all the details ahead of time, there won't be as many surprises down the road.

waddisme

Like I mentioned before, brake upgrade. I have the XP12/10 set up on stock calipers and still I cannot lock up my Hoosier R80s. Most people talk about cornering grip when you upgrade, but the braking grip is just as noticeable if not more. When I did Daytona, I ran the first couple of sessions on my BFG street tires before switching to track tires. Huge difference is stopping distance, especially on the backstretch slowing down for bus stop. Slid through that a few times.

Enjoy.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Be careful with those tires and XP10 and XP8 combo as stated above you will eat them quick. I would recommend getting a back up set of pads XP20 or 24 front and XP10 rear pre bed. I will be happy to help you give me a call at 216-780-8825.

XP24 $290 XP20 $271 XP10 rear $183.

TorontoC6

Hoosier R80 is not the same as an R6. They are significantly stickier.

My advice for R6 is to let the tires warm up for 1.5 laps in first session (one lap is all that's needed later in the day) and start pushing them harder and harder. You will notice that once warm, they have a lot more grip than when cold. R6's will howl a bit when pushed but by that time you are sliding. If you have a balanced car and are smooth, you don't have to worry about them snap breaking loose, unless it's cold, their cold, or it's wet. If it's all three then don't learn to drive on slicks; wait for a nice day.

TorontoC6

Also watch your tire pressures closely. I would start at 26/25 front/rear. Check them after first session immediately when you come into paddock. If you are pushing them hard, they should gain 8-10psi. You want around 36/35 hot front/rear.

yow

(I'm OP)

I checked my records and I'm running -1.9* fr and -.9* rear camber. I'll be in the intermediate class and there will be traffic, so I won't be hammering out 15-20 minutes of 10/10ths or anything. It's been my experience that I can get 2-3 solid laps (which I time) in any given session. Should I go through the trouble and expense of getting a camber kit and adding camber under these circumstances? I see the benefit in being able to adjust it down the road, I just wonder if I will be ok for this particular event.

Also, since I'll only get 2-3 hard laps per session, how do you think my brake pads (10/8) will do? I've got 6 track days on them so far and they look great, still. I'd like to put that expense off until next year when I can perhaps do a full brake kit upgrade.

Lastly, I don't know if my bushings are stock or aftermarket. Is there an easy way to tell, for someone like me? Thanks!!!