irieman

I was thinking about running track only rotors for my 2013 Z06, so this way I wouldn't have to worry about bedding in the carbotech pads (XP10/XP8) to my stock rotors every time. Plus I could travel with my stock rotors as backups to my track only rotors. Is this a good idea?

Any recommendation on a set of mid-grade rotors (front/rear). StopTech Powerslot, DBA T2 Slotted, DBA T3 Club Spec 4000, Stock rears?

Thanks.

Black89Z51

If you run Carbotech pads for street and track, they are interchangeable and you won't have to swap rotors at the track, just pads.

rfn026

Here's an article I wrote a while back about brake discs. I'm not sure what you mean by a mid-grade rotor. Why would you want a cheap rotor for the track?

I hate it if I have to change a tire at the track. I can't imagine what it would be like changing rotors for every track event.

Richard Newton

irieman

I run Hawk Performance Ceramic's on the street for their low dust qualities and I'm going to run Carbotechs for the track.

irieman

I knew someone was going to ping me about saying "mid-grade".

Let me ask you Richard...are any of the rotors that I listed in my initial post a bad rotor for the track? Please let me know.

I should of said at a "mid-level price-point", because everyone is on a budget. Just like I wasn't able to purchase the highest quality carbotech pad...I'm not ready to purchase the highest quality rotor, either.

I plan to change rotors at home before I trailer to the track, then change back on my return. Having an extra set of rotors on hand could be helpful if I ever find any stress cracks in the middle of a weekend....or during a three day event at Daytona.

Options please.

froggy47

I think it makes sense. I used some Centric rotors that were good.

Phoenix1911

Irieman, I have been doing this (Hawk HP+ pads on dedicated track rotors), and I'm wishing now for some calipers (Stoptech or Willwood) that would allow a quick pad swap (street/track) and I'll take the time to re-bed them between events.
It gets old pretty quick pulling the calipers & rotors off everytime I want my street pads on. I did not try the torx pins on the stock calipers as I've heard they are more difficult and strip easily.
Once my stock calipers show any sign of abnormal wear/function I'll spend the cash and upgrade to an aftermarket set, but as you mentioned we are all on a budget.

Hat_Trick_Hokie

This is exactly what I do. And I have been saved more than once with a street rotor used as a backup when I crack a track disc.

Can't help you out with rotor suggestions, as I use disposable rotors on a C5.

Z06trackman

I think having a separate set of rotors and pads for the track is a great idea. I have been doing this with every track car of mine since the late 90s. Benefits: for the street and autocross, the pads are always perfectly mated to the rotor (important for good braking, especially autocross), for the track the rotors are always perfectly bedded (no worries about light street use stripping the bedding from the rotor). It is not that much extra work to change the rotors if you are changing the pads: 2 more bolts per wheel.

Bill Dearborn

If you aren't changing the calipers then go with the stock front Z06 Rotors. In my experience they last just about as long as the expensive rotors and cost a lot less (5 days before cracking Vs AFX/Coleman two piece units that made it 7 days). Stock rears lasted about as long as the fronts but didn't visibly heat check before cracking. The AFX/Coleman rear two piece rotors went 20 days before I wore them out (never cracked, just got to thin). In that case the expensive rotors were the way to go.

I currently have Wilwood calipers and rotors on my Z. With 6 track days on them the front two piece rotors have a fair amount of heat checking while the rears have none. Not sure how many more track days I can get out of the fronts but it looks like the math doesn't add up for them. Will have to see whether the rears work out the same as the Coleman's.

One thing I tried earlier in the season was the Advance Auto Parts lowest cost rotors. At the store they cost about the same as the stock ones do shipped to the house. However, upon inspection it is obvious they aren't as well built as the stock rotors since they have less material in the vent area between the rotor faces. They did take 3 track days and look pretty good.

This is the first year in a long while that I didn't do 20 track days (only 15) and my experience over the 4 years since I got my Z shows me the stock rotor is the most cost effective rotor you can use. Last weekend I did a 3 day event and I carried two stock front rotors for spares in case the Wilwoods needed changing.

Now my disclaimer: Due to individual driver characteristics your results can vary.

Bill

VThokies

Bill,

By stock rotors do you mean the factory rotors that are drilled? Or stock replacement blanks, like a Centric rotor?

Thanks.

RedLS1GTO

That is exactly what I do. You can swap rotors on 1 of these things in a few minutes, so why not do it? I also carry my "street" rotors as track spares. Cracked rotors WILL happen when you are at the track. For something so straight forward and simple, it is much better to be prepared rather than scrambling around trying to find a replacement.

I can only speak from the C5 side as opposed to the C6Z perspective, but check NAPA as well. As far as "cheap" stock rotors go, my experience is that theirs are as good as any out there. It is what I run for the street and track backup (I use AP J-hooks on the track).

irieman

Bill, To your disclaimer...I plan to take it easy for my first handful of track days even though I plan to visit Daytona this year. I need to get a little comfortable throwing around a 60k+ car (Thanks Tommy for the great Deal).

To your other statement...I do plan on using the stock calipers and changing over to Motul RBF 600 for brake fluid. I like keeping things simple, so I do like your recommendation on using the stock drilled rotors, but at the same time I've heard so many issues with drilled rotors. Are the Coleman's a slotted rotor? I'm going to call Essex to see if they have an J-Hook replacement that will work with the stock calipers.

jlutherva

Been there, done that, got lazy and bought a trailer. Swapping rotors is a good plan but using compatible street pads and track pads is a better approach.

WRT rotor life, I was getting 8 days out of the cheapest $58 centric rotors and 8 days out of both the heavy duty and light weight $200 Performance AFX rotors.

I now have a Brembo GT package and they seem to be lasting much better but they are over $500 each.

Jim

RedLS1GTO

You are about 95% of the way done with a rotor swap when you change pads. At that point it is 2 bolts out, 2 bolts in. It adds about 30 seconds of work to each side and you don't have to worry about matching compounds. For the street, use what works best on the street and for the track, use what works best on the track.

Phoenix1911

Bill, not to hijack the thread, but your disclaimer got me thinking, I'm curious about what tires you run on a typical HPDE day, I'm assuming not PS2 or PSS but a DOT 'R' compound or full blown slick? I'm assuming your going very deep into the corners and getting more heat into those rotors than running on a standard street tire would allow due to less braking potential.

RX-Ben

I always drove on race pads (DTC60s/PFC01s/ST-43s). Never had an issue with noise, braking ability, etc.

Swapping rotors before and after every event (along with some swaps during an event due to cracking), sounds pretty miserable to me.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Call me direct at 216-780-8825 to order the pads, I would stick with stock rotors until you need new ones.

jlutherva

Lazy runs deep! I quit driving the car on the street. Didn't swap pads anymore either....

Jim

Phoenix1911

Yeah, I'll try to do the swap twice, beginning and end of season and then live with the noise in between. I usually get a few days of quiet after events

You mention your DTC's were quiet? I run HP+ and they get Public Bus loud its terrible....