Black89Z51

I've perused the forums for several hours for a fuel cell for my 89 with not much luck. A lot of 5-10 gallon fuel cells for drag racing, but not much else. I know there are some extremely pricey options, but I'm trying to stay in the $1,200 range for a new fuel cell. I'd like something around 25 gallons.

Looking for people who have installed something similar. Pictures would be very nice. I'd really like not to have to obliterate the cargo area, but I'll do what I have to I suppose. I can't do much more than 40 minutes without the car sputtering in right handers, and the stock fuel tank isn't going to offer much in the way of safety in the event of an off-road excursion.

Thanks in advance!

eogel

I have two C4 race cars, '86 and '90. Both have 22 gal. ATL fuel cells.
One has the red steel container can and the other has a silver aluminum can. Not sure of the difference in weight, but the alum can replaced a rusting steel one.

Suggest you get a fuel level dip stick also. Makes measuring fuel level easier than pushing a something down thru the filler neck.

Both cells are mounted in a Melrose rack/cage that bolts to the rear of the chassis. Provides great support of the cell and protection of the cell if ever needed. The protection has been needed twice, and the rack/cage has no signs of giving after both incidents. The '86 has tow hooks welded to the rack/cage. I don't think Melrose makes them now, but it would be worth a call. Requires no modification to the car body, and fuel if fill thru the stock opening in the rear center of the car.

Will look for pictures to post.

I think we met at Summit Point a couple of years ago. You had just finished your engine and started racing. \

Ed

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...g?t=1385918875

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...g?t=1385918885

The vertical uprights are support mounts for the wing. You can see where the fuel cell cage bolts to the original frame/chassis with 4 bolts.

Black89Z51

Thanks for the reply Ed. Yes we did meet at Summit Point. Looking forward to some pictures! Thanks.

I might be able to get the fuel cell with a fuel sensing unit that books up to my fuel gauge hopefully.

Crepitus

Black89Z51

Thanks for the pictures Ed!

Black89Z51

Just to update anyone following this post:

I called Melrose and they have one mount in stock that they use for a template. They will make them upon request so they are still available.

The fuel cell used is a SP122 from ATL. I think this is a proprietary cell made for the Melrose mount, but still affordable. He did say that if you are running fuel injection, you had to have the sump in the cell.

I placed my order for the mount. He said it would be between $275-300 which really isn't bad IMHO.

BrianCunningham

Thanks! :thumbsup:

Crepitus

Nice I hope you can throw a few pics our way when you start cutting n weldin

Black89Z51

I'll be doing a full writeup on the process. As far as I know, it'll be the only writeup on a fuel cell that big. From what I can see, there won't be a whole lot of welding, more of a bolt-on thing, but we shall see.

eogel

After getting the rear bumper off, the hardest part will be mounting the fuel cell frame/cage to the car. I found using a 2 x 6 board across the bottom of the cage and using a floor jack, lift against the board to raise the frame/cage with the complete fuel cell mounted in it. It can then be rolled into place to bolt to the frame. Finding the center point on the board for balance will be easy by raising it a little. May take a couple of tries.

Crepitus

Have you made any decisions about a pickup or collector? The oval track stuff is simple. The wide shape of the Vette tank and RR app poses some challenges. are you planing on a in tank pump?

Black89Z51

Since I'm carbed I'll be running an external Holley Blue pump. The ATL cell that I order will have the 3 door sump installed, so the pickup lines will be run into that.

I wouldn't hesitate to run a FI pump in the same orientation. Just make sure to install the pump close to the fuel cell and towards the bottom. You will get a siphon effect to the pump making it easier on the pump as they like to push and not pull.

evilcat155

Hi - noticed that this thread had gone silent but interested in the fuel cell cage. I just completely disassembled a roadrace C4 and the amount of stuff that had been bodged together was stunning. Had a cell mounted on top of a gutted rear bumper subframe that had been hacked, cannibalized, and weirdly bird-doo'd together.

You said that Melrose has the jig and can make that cage? I was just about to design and weld one myself but if someone already has done the legwork it would be foolish of me to create one from the whole cloth. I couldn't make one for $300 bucks just in my time and materials! Who did you talk to? Have you received it yet?

Black89Z51

I called Melrose and they do have a jig to make more. And the price was slightly cheaper than $300. I am going to get it powdercoated as it comes as bare steel, but otherwise it's a great piece. I am just waiting on some uncle sam money to order the cell. Also waiting for a tool from BMW to put my buddies' 335i clutch back together so I can take the rear of the vette apart.

I'll post up some pictures of the cell mount later when it's more light out.

LHZAWD

I'm doing the same -dropped the fuel cell down from on top of the rear cross member -12" lower than before -removed the 36lb approx. rear bumper and incorporated it all in one .Over all weight was unfortunately increased by about 20 lbs but its lowered the center of gravity and protecting the cell- i'll get the 20lbs from somewhere else in the car.

evilcat155

That is very similar to what I was thinking. How is access to the diff? Just fabbed up a plate to use the two bolts on each side that used to secure the bumper subframe, right?

I like the way you made yours - I would definitely use a similar amount of steel to form a good solid rear bumper to protect the cell. On the car I have they had cut or crashed the middle of the bumper subframe out of existence then tied the two halves together with an irregular looking random piece of aluminum plate then jammed a pretty distorted and nasty battery cage between that and the cell and tacked it to the mangled angle iron they used to support the cell itself. I have some pictures around here somewhere - I'll post them later as a study of the kind of car I would not do 150 mph in at the race track!

Black89Z51

Here's a few pics of the Melrose fuel cell mount. Overall a pretty nice piece.

LHZAWD

That Melrose looks like the quick and easy way to go -whats the bathroom scale weight on it ?
metal cost for mine was only around $50 or so -but definitely took a bit of time to make sure it was level and square but I enjoy fabricating/welding.
my car came with 2 holly blue pumps on separate switches (in case 1 fails)-these will be going at the bottom of the frame on passenger side - lowest point of fuel cell.
Vette is carbureted so starvation probably not a problem.
I have 1 Fram filter in the engine bay -not sure if filter before the pump is needed this time but its an option .

These pics are from the last car I built-cell had 3 door collector box inside to help with fuel starvation -injected car -everything was also covered with a lid-separating it from the rest of the car.

Black89Z51

Finally got the car in the garage and got started on my ATL fuel cell installation. The mount is a Melrose T-Tops piece, and is still available. They may need to fabricate one, but they are still avaialble. The fuel cell that fits this is the SP122B.



1. Remove the rubber "cup" around the filler neck. Be careful with these as they get older they become brittle and tear easily. Pretty sure I won't be using this anymore though.



2. Drain the tank as much as possible. I would recommend going to Habro Freight or Northern and getting some sort of siphon system. Alternatively, if you disconnect the fuel filter, it will siphon itself to a point.



3. Remove the rear wheels and wheel wells. Pretty self explanatory. The wheel wells use 2 different size torx bits and a few 10mm bolts.



4. Remove the power antenna assembly. It's held in by 2 8mm bolts at the bottom.



5. Remove the rear tail lights. They are held in by 2 10mm bolts for each light. You will also have to remove the bulb/socket assembly prior to popping them out of the rear facia.

6. Remove the bulb/sock assemblies from the corner lights. Also remove the under car light for the spare tire. That is held in place by 2 7mm screws.

7. Remove the fender supports on either side of the car. It's held in by 10mm fasteners.

8. Reach up and remove the 5 10mm nuts on both corners of the rear facia.

9. Reach in through the tail light holes and there will be 8 (if i remember right) 7mm bolts that you can't really see. I used a 1/4" ratchet and a short 7mm socket to remove these. It was pretty easy to take them out. There are 2 that are realy close to the fuel filler door.

10. Remove the 4 13mm nuts that secure the tank safety cables and take the cables off the studs.



11. The rear facia should now be ready to be removed. Be gentle and pull it straight back. Don't force it. If it's sticking in an area, feel for a leftover fastener.



12. Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines as well as the fuel pump and sending unit connector.

13. Disconnect the 2 emissions lines from the tank. There is on on the top just to the driver's side of the fuel tank, and one on the bottom on the forward side of the tank, also on the driver's side.





14. You should get a friend for the next part. Remove the 8 long bolts (4 on each side) from the rear subframe. Support the frame.



15. Now pull back on the frame and tilt it down a bit and it should slide right out.





16. Once it's on the ground, just remove the straps holding the tank in and it should lift right out.





This is the frame just mocked up in place that will be going in with the fuel cell. I haven't worked out the fuel filler part, but my intention is to leave the stock fuel filler door in place.

Black89Z51

Finally made some progress on the car. Got the fuel cell in from ATL. I'm going to say that ATL is proud of their stuff. I added a few options to the cell. Surge tank (no pump), offset filler (for the level sender) and a 0-90 ohm level sender that will work with my Autometer gauges. It's ridiculous the price of those options. They were as much, if not a little more than the actual cost of the fuel cell. Also, keep in mind that the offset filler comes with a 45 degree neck, which unfortunately I can't use and now have had to buy a straight one to work with my setup.

I glassed in the old fuel filler area and cut out a circle to mount the ATL remote fuel filler.






Here is the fuel cell sitting in the Melrose frame.



I noticed that the cell wouldn't sit all the way down into the mount because the bolts that secure the fuel cell top hit the top rail of the frame.

I drilled some holes in the frame to allow it to sit all the way down. I suppose I could have turned them upside down, but power tools!





I fabbed up some securing straps to hold the cell down. It hooks on one end and I welded a nut to the frame. Just 1 bolt per strap holds it in. Pretty slick design I think.





One thing I wasn't prepared to do was modify the living crap out of the rear valence. There is significant cutting involved with this. The entire license plate area has to be removed, as well as a strip along the bottom of the valence.

I'm probbaly going to glass in the license plate area and paint it up. Since this is track only, I don't have a use for a license plate anymore.



That's all the updates for now. Hopefully I'll get it bolted in the car for the final time tomorrow.