waddisme

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I was driving to my house when the DIC displayed "Low Oil Pressure". At first I thought oil pressure sensor as mine is still original. But then I looked at gauge and it said zero. I was only 100 yds from my house so I drove it into garage. Car just came back from 7 weeks in shop getting rear main seal and front crank pulley repl. I hope it is just an issue with my accusump, which actually is not even working since coil went bad. Seems like I will never get to drive this again.

jaa1992

That ain't good

GettReal

that happened to me a couple times but I didnt get a low oil pressure warning. I had somehow built up enough pressure in my accusump that it blew the relief valve open and spewed oil all over the inner fender like that. I think I had too low of a PSI valve on my accusump so I replaced it with something higher and it was fine after. I wont even go into my embarrassing moment when i changed the valve... I will just say, oil hitting you in the face under pressure sucks.

froggy47

Sucks, sorry.

waddisme

Well this is what I found:

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Not sure why the bottom would fall off like that, especially since it was not powered or even had a coil in the EPC. Even more confused why the valve opened to let oil from motor drain out. Hoping my 100yd drive didn't damage motor.

RX-Ben

I would think it would need to see a lot of pressure to kick out the base like that.
Does the valve default to open w/no coil? Unless it is open, no oil would pass through.

A little late now, but the manual valve with the remote actuation kit really simplifies things and cuts down on the possibility of issues.

SouthernSon

[QUOTE=RX-Ben;1585984158......A little late now, but the manual valve with the remote actuation kit really simplifies things and cuts down on the possibility of issues.[/QUOTE]

I got the manual valve after two failures of electrical solenoid parts. You will like the manual because it is more positive, eliminates a few parts ( KISS ) and it is recommended for track work over the electrical. Just run the cable on the inside of the driver side sill/rocker panel. Easy enough to just reach down with the left hand and pull it or push it at start up. The only real problem is remembering to pull it closed while at rpm as you exit the track.

MySR71

My car has the same valve. On it, just because the system doesn't have power doesn't mean oil can't go into the accusump reservoir. It only means that oil won't be discharged from the reservoir back into the engine. Basically, it is a one way valve with the system turned off.

For example, when I do an oil change, I drain the oil out of the oil pan, then turn on power to the accusump system. The accusump beings to discharge and oil flows out of the oil pan. Once discharged, I turn off the accusump. I can verify the accusump has discharged by looking at the gauge installed on the top of reservoir. It reads somewhere around 8 psi when empty. That is the pressure on the air side of the reservoir piston.

After filling the car with more oil (over filling it a bit actually), I leave the accusump power turned off and start the car. The accusump reservoir begins to fill up even though it doesn't have power. I can verify that by looking at the gauge on the reservoir, which goes up to 45'ish psi. I then have to top off the oil level to the desired level.

So without power, the accusump EPC valve, at least on my car, acts as a one way valve. With power, it will still allow the reservoir to fill, but will also allow it to discharge if the oil pressure gets below its set point.

My guess is that on your car, somehow the reservoir system broke downstream of the valve. As a result, oil was pumped past the EPC valve since it was acting as a one way valve but in the direction which would allow oil to escape.


...That's my understanding of how the system works. Hopefully it is accurate.....

waddisme

That was going to be my next project before my Mar 7 VIR event. Not sure I will put this back on my car. I only drive about 8/10ths at the track so not sure I really need it. Here is a typical VIR lap for me:

SouthernSon

Nice lap. Have you tried going into the esses at 125mph or so? Your car seems to be holding curves well enough to come out the top at 110mph easily, maybe 115. You can shave a lot of time off the 7 or 8 seconds there. I have found on the back straight, I get better top end by short shifting to 5th and braking really deep. Of course, I have no idea what brakes you are using and the condition of your tires.

mgarfias

Funny, I saw that and figured the accusump blew up, but didn't know if you had one.

Mine did the same thing. I did not put it back in the car.

waddisme

I guess advancing my esses skill that would be the 9/10ths I should be seeking. I just put the WW SL6s on last fall when I thought I was going back to Daytona(but didn't make it), so I figure all my braking points will be different now.

I remember reading a thread where the cannister blew up, not sure if your thread, but IIRC, there was no answer to what happened to it. Will go back and read through it when I get a chance.

Apocolipse

You may have gotten lucky on your bearings
..may have not. Only time will tell when you fire it up again if it builds pressure or makes a racket. Damage will be done 100% but how much damage is the question.

waddisme

Definitely crossing my fingers there. Line is plugged now and new oil put in. Too cold to mess with for now, plus I am hoping I can get cannister out without having to take fender off.

RX-Ben

As an aside, the torque spec on the clamps is VERY light - 6-7lbs/ft.