yow

I'm looking at buying a 4 door truck for 10-15k. I'll tow an ENCLOSED (20') car hauler with my c6 in it. I'm overwhelmed with choices and need wisdom. I can find a half-ton in my price range with 100k miles, easily. A 3/4 ton is harder to find but I've seen them. Will a half-ton be fine or should I get a 3/4 ton? Do I need 4wd, really? Should I be apprehensive about buying a half-ton with 100k+ miles if I'm pulling a car hauler? I'll only pull it 2-3x a year with the car in it.

Thanks for the input!!!

What do you haul with? Pics? Reviews? Got a truck for sale?

bosco022

I am guessing your trailer/C6 combo weighs in the neighborhood of 7500#. I would say that a stout 1/2 ton could get the job done. Something like a Nissan Titan will pull nearly 10K #.

You could probably find some deals (well under 10 K) on a 8-10 year old Chevy Silverado 2500 3/4 ton with the 6.0 that would be even better.

In 2009 we picked up a nice, loaded, higher mileage (120 K) 2001 Silverado 3500 dually for under 9K and used it to pull a 30' tag and our C6 racer and plenty of spares.

4 wheel drive has been unnecessary for us here in FL.

johninar

Find a 3/4. It's not so much about getting that trailer to move, most decent 1/2 ton trucks will do that. Where you need it, and need it most is the bigger brakes, beefier suspension.
Granted, a 20' is easier than my 24 footer, I have a F250 Diesel and have never looked back. I feel much safer with the 3/4.
JMHO

good luck on your search

bb69

Where are you located? I have a 2003 Dodge 2500 quad cab with the high output Cummins diesel, 4x4, for sale. It has about 142,000 miles. If someone gave me $15k cash, it would be theirs.

The newer 1500's with 6 speed transmissions pull much better than the older 4 and 5 speed autos. Otherwise, I would look for a 3/4 ton truck.

Ken

64drvr

Avoid 4l60e's, 10 bolts, and 1/2 ton drum brakes and you should be fine.

RapidC84B

I've been towing with a 2008 Titan for four years now. Bought it with 44k miles for $16k. Now have 105k on it with zero issues. Been towing a 24' steel enclosed and now a 20' aluminum enclosed. They're one of the best used values on the market. I didn't want to deal with a diesel or bigger truck as it's my daily driver. If it's a tow pig that you only use to tow to the track then buy an older 3/4 ton diesel.

c4cruiser

I tow my 20' enclosed trailer with my '08 Silverado. The truck has an extended cab, 4x4, the 6.0L motor (367HP and 390+ ft-lbs torque), 4-wheel disc brakes, and it came with a trailering package. That package has the HD 4-speed auto trans, bigger trans cooler, integrated trailer brake controller, and 3.73 gears in a Dana 60 locker differential.

With my '87 loaded in the trailer and all of the items I carry in the trailer, the total trailer weight is about 6700 lbs. The trailer weighs just under 3000 lbs and the max total weight is 7000 lbs.

The owner's manual says that as the truck is configured, it can haul 8500 lbs. The GCWR (gross combination weight rating) is 14,000 lbs. That includes everything that is in the truck and trailer.

It's important to get a good weight distribution hitch so you can balance the load. I use a Curt WD hitch and with the loaded trailer hooked up, the front, the rear end drops about a half-inch, and the front stays in the same position as if empty.

With my '08 truck, the towing capacities aren't really different between the 2WD and 4WD trucks. A 4.10 gearset may provide a little extra power for towing and something like a couple hundred more pounds of capacity, gas mileage will suffer.

Is the truck going to be a daily driver? If so, look at 2WD trucks with the standard length box (about 6'). The extended cabs are great for passengers and securing stuff.

yow

I'm looking at an 08 Titan and an 08 Tundra TRD. Both are reasonably priced. Titan has 112k miles and Tundra 78k. I think if I had my way it would be a 2500 Dodge or Silverado. I'm planning on it being my DD so I don't really want/need a diesel.

5280Racer

any gasser truck will do for the most part.. most of them in the past 10 years tow over 8000 lbs. my only concern which is an easy fix is the trans cooling.. you can get a extra deep trans pan for under 300 and a larger trans cooler plus some stronger brake pads and you'll never have a worry. use a weight distributing hitch and be fine. I tow with my 04 Tahoe Z71.. I built a better 4l60 for it deep pan and trans cooler better brakes.. and cammed it but my wife likes to go fast...!!! she drives it every day get 21 mpg in Denver.

RX-Ben

If you look hard enough and are knowledgeable, you can find a Duramax in that price range. I found an 07 3500 dually work truck with 135k(I added pw and locks) for <$13k, at a Ford dealership of all places. It's a beast (it does not care if 16k lb trailer id attached) and gets 20mpg unloaded on the highway.

yow

UPDATE: I bought a 2005 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 with the 6.0L gas.

QUESTIONS: Should I get a 20' bumper pull? Should I get a 24' bumper pull? If I do either will I necessarily need a brake controller? Which one? Will I need a breakaway? Leveling kit?

OR should I get a 24' gooseneck? What else will I need there?

OHHHH SO MANY QUESTIONS. Help me build my tow rig! I'd like to spend under 6k, preferably 4k.

Supercharged111

20' will fit the car and straps, that's about it. I'd go 24' if you want tires and tools in there too. You'll want a WD hitch. Also, DO NOT run the factory hitch! It's a POS made of beer cans welded together! See how far you can throw it. Breakaway I think comes on most, if not all new trailers now. I know a guy with a 2500 of your vintage who hauls without a WD hitch and the front end sticks up pretty high. Just about anything past the 6,000 mark and there's really no getting around it. Your *** end can be solid as a rock, but it won't prevent the front end from jacking.

Donny Brass

go 24, at least. by the time you pack in tools, tires, coolers, a grill, a pit bike and everything else you think you need, it gets cramped.

plus a 24 is a lot easier to sell, in case you decide to go in another direction.

lefrog

I have exactly the same truck. Yes you need a brake controller and breakaway switch.
For the brake controller, I have been very happy with this:
- Reese Towpower 74378 Pilot Brake Controller: - Reese 22284 Brake Control Wiring Adapter:
It's plug and play. The wiring adapter plugs directly into the module to the left of your brake pedal. Check this video for instructions:
What I like about this brake controller is that you can easily set the voltage you want with the side ****. You usually use higher voltage when the trailer is loaded vs empty. You can also adjust according to weather conditions (dry, wet, snow) to prevent wheel lockup.

yow

Thank you! Way to make it easy for me! I'll get that brake controller.

What WD hitch should I get?

Feffman

I set up a corporate account with Enterprise Commercial Trucks to rent new Ford, GM or Dodge 3/4 ton diesels. Only use them 6-8 times annually so I don't have to store, maintain, insure or pay property taxes on the diesel.

Show up and pick up a newish truck each time.

Feff

lefrog

You are welcome.
I don't use a WD hitch, I have an open trailer and even though it's heavy I don't have any problem. If the suspension collapses too much in the back with the weight of the trailer (that happened when I use my neighbor's GMC 1500), having suspension air bags in the back helps a lot.

jcsperson

I hadn't thought of that. What does that typically run for a weekend?

Feffman

I pay a little more, about $115 per day, to get unlimited mileage on the rental. There are likely better rates if you don't travel as far as I do.

Another guy who runs with us rents from the local Ford truck dealer using a duely F350 to tow his gooseneck trailer.

Feff

jcsperson

That's actually not that bad if you only do 6-8 events a year.