Alignment suggestions??
#1
Racer
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Alignment suggestions??
Will be heading out to Daytona HPDE for new days 4/10 4/11, PBIR 4/12 and Sebring 4/14 and 4/15, I am still running street tires on a 2012 grand sport and will be trailering to the track. I attached the setting of the last alignment any suggestions on if I should take it to get a different alignment for the track? Thanks,
Scott
Scott
#2
Melting Slicks
I would max out the negative camber in front and go for about 1/2 a degree less in the back. If the car is driven on the street a good bit this really won't eat your front tires that bad. Four or 5 track days without enough negative camber will eat at least a set of tires, so what you have probably isn't enough to save them. This would most likely be about -2 degrees in the front and -1.5 in the back.
If you do still drive the car on the street I'd put in zero front toe and a bit of toe in in the back. If it isn't going to be street driven I'd go with some toe out (1/8 inch or a bit more) to improve turn in. NEVER put any toe out in the back.
Caster is good, but if you max out the negative camber you may not get as much caster, but take what you get.
If you do still drive the car on the street I'd put in zero front toe and a bit of toe in in the back. If it isn't going to be street driven I'd go with some toe out (1/8 inch or a bit more) to improve turn in. NEVER put any toe out in the back.
Caster is good, but if you max out the negative camber you may not get as much caster, but take what you get.
#3
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I would max out the negative camber in front and go for about 1/2 a degree less in the back. If the car is driven on the street a good bit this really won't eat your front tires that bad. Four or 5 track days without enough negative camber will eat at least a set of tires, so what you have probably isn't enough to save them. This would most likely be about -2 degrees in the front and -1.5 in the back. If you do still drive the car on the street I'd put in zero front toe and a bit of toe in in the back. If it isn't going to be street driven I'd go with some toe out (1/8 inch or a bit more) to improve turn in. NEVER put any toe out in the back. Caster is good, but if you max out the negative camber you may not get as much caster, but take what you get.
#5
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yes in Raleigh....I am guy that stopped by a few weeks ago with aluminum trailer when picking up Carbotech and rotors.....last one place in Cary downtown ..name is slipping my mind But I recall it's next to pure gold.
Suggestion?
Suggestion?
#6
Supporting Vendor
Oh hey!!
You are talking about Mark's place - Performance Chassis. For a performance alignment that is the best place.
I was lucky and able to borrow my landlords alignment rack (the shop on the corner by our place). It's not the easiest car to align that is for sure.
-Ken
You are talking about Mark's place - Performance Chassis. For a performance alignment that is the best place.
I was lucky and able to borrow my landlords alignment rack (the shop on the corner by our place). It's not the easiest car to align that is for sure.
-Ken
#7
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
What they have said above would be a good starting point, but I generally like to run a tick bit of toe out on the front of the car, say 1/16 to 1/8" total.
You need to watch the tires at Daytona...the banking can really eat them alive if you guys get to run on it for very long.
You need to watch the tires at Daytona...the banking can really eat them alive if you guys get to run on it for very long.
#8
Drifting
What they have said above would be a good starting point, but I generally like to run a tick bit of toe out on the front of the car, say 1/16 to 1/8" total.
You need to watch the tires at Daytona...the banking can really eat them alive if you guys get to run on it for very long.
You need to watch the tires at Daytona...the banking can really eat them alive if you guys get to run on it for very long.
I will be putting back a little toe out in the front, I ran 0 at the end of last year and the car liked to wonder more at higher speeds than when I ran a little toe out, I'll be going back to it, felt more stable and had good turn in.
#9
dealer sayas he can't align
for track days with my Hoosier A6s, manual says 1.7 degrees F and 2.0 R. Dealer says he can't get over .5 degrees without way too much toe!! Is he wrong? I am on track Thursday.
#10
Drifting
He is wrong.
Camber and toe are adjusted separately. Toe is done after caster and camber.
This is a good guide.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-9.12.2011.pdf
Camber and toe are adjusted separately. Toe is done after caster and camber.
This is a good guide.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-9.12.2011.pdf
Last edited by blkbrd69; 05-05-2014 at 08:44 PM.
#11
He is wrong.
Camber and toe are adjusted separately. Toe is done after caster and camber.
This is a good guide.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-9.12.2011.pdf
Camber and toe are adjusted separately. Toe is done after caster and camber.
This is a good guide.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-9.12.2011.pdf
#12
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Corvette-Alignment-Guide-R
PS: I cannot get http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-9.12.2011.pdf to display anything.
#13
Melting Slicks
go to a reputable alignment shop NOT the dealer!
I used the third option on the pfadt sheet (performance street- track use with track tires) and it is a good compromise for non-track-only (DD) cars....I have sport cups
here is the Pfadt pdf file....
close - up...
I used the third option on the pfadt sheet (performance street- track use with track tires) and it is a good compromise for non-track-only (DD) cars....I have sport cups
here is the Pfadt pdf file....
close - up...
Last edited by 05dsom; 05-05-2014 at 09:32 PM.