Max camber I could get in the rear was .08??
03-28-2014, 02:30 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Max camber I could get in the rear was .08??
Yup...drivers side could go to 1.5+ and the passenger side was maxed out at .08. I have t1 sways and G2 coilovers. Stock bushings though. Could that be why? Still don't get why...
03-28-2014, 07:11 PM
#3
Same thing with my C5Z, I had to pitch the camber blocks out back because of an offset cradle.
03-28-2014, 08:23 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Dumb question...but is the only remedy to unbolt the cradle and shift it over? Is there any sort of mark to let me know it's centered?
03-30-2014, 01:08 AM
#12
Drifting
There's not a lot of room to move the subframe (F or R) side-to-side but they will move a little. Having it offset is most evident when using camber adjustment kits as you attempt to use the same plates on both sides of the car. In doing so, it was then that I took a long pry bar to the subframe and, after loosening the bolts, moved it a tad.
It may be necessary to drop your subframe far enough to elongate the bolt holes (side-to-side) to allow for enough movement to shift your subframe as far as needed. I was able to get mine close enough to be < 0.1 deg off from side-to-side with the plates.
Most likely the front is also offset but as you can add washers and shims to the upper control arm mounts it isn't noticed as much as on the rear with its fixed upper mounts. I did pry the front over, as well.
It's not really an issue from the factory as they do shim the front upper mounts and the rear, as is, allows OEM alignment specs. It's just an issue when we want more.
--Dan
It may be necessary to drop your subframe far enough to elongate the bolt holes (side-to-side) to allow for enough movement to shift your subframe as far as needed. I was able to get mine close enough to be < 0.1 deg off from side-to-side with the plates.
Most likely the front is also offset but as you can add washers and shims to the upper control arm mounts it isn't noticed as much as on the rear with its fixed upper mounts. I did pry the front over, as well.
It's not really an issue from the factory as they do shim the front upper mounts and the rear, as is, allows OEM alignment specs. It's just an issue when we want more.
--Dan
03-30-2014, 09:31 AM
#13
Race Director
There's not a lot of room to move the subframe (F or R) side-to-side but they will move a little. Having it offset is most evident when using camber adjustment kits as you attempt to use the same plates on both sides of the car. In doing so, it was then that I took a long pry bar to the subframe and, after loosening the bolts, moved it a tad.
It may be necessary to drop your subframe far enough to elongate the bolt holes (side-to-side) to allow for enough movement to shift your subframe as far as needed. I was able to get mine close enough to be < 0.1 deg off from side-to-side with the plates.
Most likely the front is also offset but as you can add washers and shims to the upper control arm mounts it isn't noticed as much as on the rear with its fixed upper mounts. I did pry the front over, as well.
It's not really an issue from the factory as they do shim the front upper mounts and the rear, as is, allows OEM alignment specs. It's just an issue when we want more.
--Dan
It may be necessary to drop your subframe far enough to elongate the bolt holes (side-to-side) to allow for enough movement to shift your subframe as far as needed. I was able to get mine close enough to be < 0.1 deg off from side-to-side with the plates.
Most likely the front is also offset but as you can add washers and shims to the upper control arm mounts it isn't noticed as much as on the rear with its fixed upper mounts. I did pry the front over, as well.
It's not really an issue from the factory as they do shim the front upper mounts and the rear, as is, allows OEM alignment specs. It's just an issue when we want more.
--Dan
03-30-2014, 05:28 PM
#15
Drifting
