Cam and heads for road racing
#1
Cruising
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Location: Indiana
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Cam and heads for road racing
I have a C5 coupe that just turned over 100k miles, so I figure it's a good idea to change the valve springs and oil pump. This means I have to upgrade the heads and cam.
I was thinking that the stage 1 LS6 heads from TSP would be good, so I'd like a cam to make a package.
Reliability and service interval are more important to me than big numbers, and I plan on doing HPDEs several times a year on my daily driver.
Does anyone have experience with the 224r or 224xe from TSP? Is 25k a good valve spring change interval? Could I go longer?
I was thinking that the stage 1 LS6 heads from TSP would be good, so I'd like a cam to make a package.
Reliability and service interval are more important to me than big numbers, and I plan on doing HPDEs several times a year on my daily driver.
Does anyone have experience with the 224r or 224xe from TSP? Is 25k a good valve spring change interval? Could I go longer?
Last edited by Gvr4 1510; 04-04-2014 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Need body type and year
#3
Melting Slicks
The 224/224 cam has been common for a long time. A good set of 243 heads, new ls7 or ctsv racing lifters, and matching beehive or dual valve springs would be a nice reliable package. Don't forget headers to let it breath. I'd probably go with the higher lift 224/228 cam or the 224R cam on a 114 which would still be a mild street/track setup.
#4
Drifting
heads/cam
The 224/224 cam has been common for a long time. A good set of 243 heads, new ls7 or ctsv racing lifters, and matching beehive or dual valve springs would be a nice reliable package. Don't forget headers to let it breath. I'd probably go with the higher lift 224/228 cam or the 224R cam on a 114 which would still be a mild street/track setup.
#5
Melting Slicks
243 heads, 405 hp LS6 cam and LS6 intake.
Make about 435 hp with headers/intake/tune, about 385 to the wheels.
Drives like stock, stock like reliability.
A lot of power for a little money.
Make about 435 hp with headers/intake/tune, about 385 to the wheels.
Drives like stock, stock like reliability.
A lot of power for a little money.
#7
Melting Slicks
That's what I ran for 5 consecutive years. Bone stock LS6 and I just pulled it out last year after nationals. Great reliable power plant. I think the cams he's looking at should be nearly as reliable and make a good bit more power than the stock ls6 cam if that's the direction he wants to go.
#8
Cruising
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Thanks for the replies guys.
I should have mentioned I have a vararam and LG street headers.
It sounds like the 224r wouldn't be too extreme for my goals. I don't plan on years of competition racing, just survivability for 2-3 HPDE events a year for another 3 years.
I should have mentioned I have a vararam and LG street headers.
It sounds like the 224r wouldn't be too extreme for my goals. I don't plan on years of competition racing, just survivability for 2-3 HPDE events a year for another 3 years.
#9
Melting Slicks
That's what I ran for 5 consecutive years. Bone stock LS6 and I just pulled it out last year after nationals. Great reliable power plant. I think the cams he's looking at should be nearly as reliable and make a good bit more power than the stock ls6 cam if that's the direction he wants to go.
Has been in the car 3.5 years now, 20,000 miles and at least 10-12 HPDE events.
Still very strong.
One thing I have learned in all this, more power means more brake pad money.
#10
Food for thought-- would be interesting to see what Jason or others at Katech recommend. Lots of great cams out of that shop and lots of real world experience put into them. I ran and liked one of theirs in my LS3.
#12
Melting Slicks
#13
Le Mans Master
Cam is a Comp. I'll need to ask on the part number. It was his personal custom grind.
#14
I have a set of TEA stage 2.5 LS6 heads with BTR .660 springs and his 227/234 cam. Just made 448/393 on a mustang dyno. Drives like stock. Has LSL and LXL lobes so it isn't super hard on the valve train. Drives like stock but rips at WOT. Keep in mind that if you're concerned about valve spring life and change intervals you probably want to be more concerned with the lobe used rather than just the duration of the cam. You can get a variation of durations on the same lobe so just because the cam appears small by the .05 duration doesn't mean that it will necessarily be easy on the valvetrain.
I'm obviously partial to my setup. I would find a set of 243's or 799's and send them to one of our reputable sponsors to be CNC'd. I probably use the same person/company to explain what I"m looking for in a cam setup and let them spec one for me. That is similar to what I did and I"m very happy with the results.
I'm obviously partial to my setup. I would find a set of 243's or 799's and send them to one of our reputable sponsors to be CNC'd. I probably use the same person/company to explain what I"m looking for in a cam setup and let them spec one for me. That is similar to what I did and I"m very happy with the results.
#15
Burning Brakes
I've got the TSP 228R cam with the XS Long Tube headers, no cats, LS6 top end. Car is track only, tuned for 93 pump gas. I'm making 425 at the wheels, and it's very driveable. Just an FYI.
#16
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If I were spending your money I would take a hard look and phone call to Advanced Inductions. Very impressive power results with ported 243 heads (they seem to understand intake velocity and swirl, not just big hollowed out ports that post big flow bench numbers). I also believe they have a background in road racing.
I'd also consider TPIS, they are involved with NASA and offer a discount to members I believe.
I'd go for a setup that makes the most average torque from 3500 to 6500 rpm
I'd also consider TPIS, they are involved with NASA and offer a discount to members I believe.
I'd go for a setup that makes the most average torque from 3500 to 6500 rpm
#17
Drifting
ported/polished my own 243s, LG G5X1 cam (228/232, 585/581), comp 1.75 ratio rockers, arp bolt wherever i touched a bolt, prc double beehive springs, 90mm throttle body, fast 90 intake manifold.
dyno tuned by a tuner, then cleaned up by me with hptuners. put down 418/400 through an auto, and its an MM12 now, and it was pig rich (12.6 wot, 10.9-11.4 cruising) so i expect ~450rwhp/415tq these days.
aluminum flywheel, ls7 clutch (you'll need throttle follower setup in your tune if you do this).
drives nearly like a standard car, other than the volume of the drivetrain, exhaust, and flywheel. very reliable with an oil cooler. brakes are probably the biggest shortcoming, as somebody else here alluded to: more power = more brakes. few track days on it, 3 sets of tires on the current drive train. slung a couple of the damn rocker arms when i used Crane polylocks instead of Comps, but since replacing them with what they came with, no hiccups out of the setup.
dyno tuned by a tuner, then cleaned up by me with hptuners. put down 418/400 through an auto, and its an MM12 now, and it was pig rich (12.6 wot, 10.9-11.4 cruising) so i expect ~450rwhp/415tq these days.
aluminum flywheel, ls7 clutch (you'll need throttle follower setup in your tune if you do this).
drives nearly like a standard car, other than the volume of the drivetrain, exhaust, and flywheel. very reliable with an oil cooler. brakes are probably the biggest shortcoming, as somebody else here alluded to: more power = more brakes. few track days on it, 3 sets of tires on the current drive train. slung a couple of the damn rocker arms when i used Crane polylocks instead of Comps, but since replacing them with what they came with, no hiccups out of the setup.
Last edited by sean.b; 04-10-2014 at 02:42 PM.
#18
I have a C5 coupe that just turned over 100k miles, so I figure it's a good idea to change the valve springs and oil pump. This means I have to upgrade the heads and cam.
I was thinking that the stage 1 LS6 heads from TSP would be good, so I'd like a cam to make a package.
Reliability and service interval are more important to me than big numbers, and I plan on doing HPDEs several times a year on my daily driver.
Does anyone have experience with the 224r or 224xe from TSP? Is 25k a good valve spring change interval? Could I go longer?
I was thinking that the stage 1 LS6 heads from TSP would be good, so I'd like a cam to make a package.
Reliability and service interval are more important to me than big numbers, and I plan on doing HPDEs several times a year on my daily driver.
Does anyone have experience with the 224r or 224xe from TSP? Is 25k a good valve spring change interval? Could I go longer?