Wilwood H pad users
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Wilwood H pad users
I am considering replacing my stock front calipers (with HP+ pads) to W6A's and H pads, leaving the rears stock with HP+. My only concern is whether the H's will overpower the Michelin Super Sports I use. For those that use the H pads, do you think this combo would be problematic?
Reading the Cf/temp graph on the TCE site suggests the B pads might be an alternative if the H pads are too much for the MPSS'. However, I haven't seen much on the forum re: the B pads and I assume that's the case because few who upgrade the calipers for HPDE do so and stay on street tires. Any thoughts on this will be appreciated as well.
Reading the Cf/temp graph on the TCE site suggests the B pads might be an alternative if the H pads are too much for the MPSS'. However, I haven't seen much on the forum re: the B pads and I assume that's the case because few who upgrade the calipers for HPDE do so and stay on street tires. Any thoughts on this will be appreciated as well.
#2
Race Director
I have used A, B, and H Wiwloods over the years in various cars (C4/C5). I never used the H with Michelin Super Sports, or any street tire for that matter. I could be wrong, but my initial thought is that the B would be your best option.
#3
Drifting
pads
I would not use "H"pads. "B"'s will work better with street tires.
Todd (TCE) is the guru in reference to Wilwood products. He has always steered me to make the right decisions when I was racing with Wilwoods.
Todd (TCE) is the guru in reference to Wilwood products. He has always steered me to make the right decisions when I was racing with Wilwoods.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#7
Drifting
TCE knows more than me but I run the H pad with NT01s and I'm happy. My car is a race car only.
#8
Drifting
pads
I think that Todd's evaluation has to do with the best pad for the environment you are using them in. The "H" pads will work but if you are using the "H"'s within their designed temp ranges the 'B"'s will probably be a more effective pad with street tire.
The only way to tell if you are using pads within their designed temp limits is with a temp strip (not too expensive) or you might get close with a laser, as long as you don't have too much cool down time.
When I was running Wilwoods front and rear, on a dedicated race car, I had to actually switch to B and C's on rear because the "H"'s on the rear, at proper temp actually overpowered the bias setup. Todd solved that one with one phone call. Note - I did not have a brake bias or proportioning valve on that setup.
The only way to tell if you are using pads within their designed temp limits is with a temp strip (not too expensive) or you might get close with a laser, as long as you don't have too much cool down time.
When I was running Wilwoods front and rear, on a dedicated race car, I had to actually switch to B and C's on rear because the "H"'s on the rear, at proper temp actually overpowered the bias setup. Todd solved that one with one phone call. Note - I did not have a brake bias or proportioning valve on that setup.
#9
Former Vendor
I prefer to start guys on the B pad as they are both less costly and have a lower Cf. The B pad seems to pair well and last reasonably long on "performance street tire" cars and be easier to modulate. When the tire grip goes up you can do the same with the pads. Not to say you cannot stay with the B pads but you may find yourself running them too hot and pushing more line pressure than needed due to the lower Cf-thus you need to clamp harder.
A note however on B: they are not and should not be used on the street. They will wear quickly and chew rotors when too cool. Not good.
A note however on B: they are not and should not be used on the street. They will wear quickly and chew rotors when too cool. Not good.