GrandSportC3

A little over a year ago, I spun a bearing on my initial build on my 406. I was running Mobil 1 for a while and later switched to Royal Purple... The car did go faster with the Royal Purple but after a few passes, I spun the bearings...

I did the same thing again on my current build.. I used Mobil 1 0W40 for a while and switched to Royal Purple 10W40 in December. Again, the car ran faster with the Royal Purple but after only 10 passes with Royal Purple, I spun the bearings again.. However, I also started running nitrous which might have had something to do woth the spun bearings too..

Has anybody heared about similar experiences in going from Mobil 1 to Royal Purple with a drag race setup?

clemsondave

Wow, sorry to hear that!! I just made the switch yesterday (M1 to RP). Please let us know what you find out!!!

vetteman9368

Ollie, can you be more specific on which RP you were running?

GrandSportC3

I'm running regular Royal Purple 10W40.. (not the Race41)

It might really be a coincidence.. I switched to RP on both builds after almost a full season on Mobil 1...

vetteman9368

at that weight I would say coincidence. Although I would take a look at the Joe Gibbs oils, as we are having VERY good luck with it. www.joegibbsracingoil.com

GrandSportC3

I personally also think that it's coincidence.. but you never know. I went to Royal Purple as it gives me a few hundreds at the track.. I used to run it for over a year in my old 383 without any issues... I don't think that IF the oil caused the problem it's not because of the oil itself but due to the change from one oil to another.. Maybe there is something that makes them incompatible.. Maybe I should go back to dino oil for a few runs and then use Royal Purple.. At less than 7000 RPM, I shouldn't need higher than a viscosity of 40.. Your stocker revs a lot higher than that

vetteman9368

and we run 20 weight

GrandSportC3

hookedup

Same rods? Rebuilt after the first time?

Ran both oils no problem, now running strictly M1.

I'm sure you've checked it but be double sure you've got enough bearing crush.

Bad timing for the NCC, I was looking forward to seeing you run, maybe next time.

Good luck,
Dave

GrandSportC3

I rely on the engine builder for the correct specs on bearing clearance etc..
There is a small <5% chance that I'll still make the national race.. I found a 650 HP 410 Cubic inch small block (with callies crank and crower rods) for sale (never run as it was a racers backup engine) but I don't know if it's still available.. E-mailed the seller and haven't heared back.. If I could have that engine delivered until early next week, it could be in by Thursday next week.. However, I doubt that the engine is still available...

I'd like to see your car run too!! We will see.. maybe a miracle is gonna happen

REDGAR

I spun a bearing after an oil change once.......cause I did not top it off

GrandSportC3

ouch

tls630

I would stick with Mobil 1. G.M. has put it in the new vettes for almost 20 years. I think they probably have done more testing than we could ever hope to do. Plus the fact that R.P. IS cheaper, look at the money they would save..They use Mobil one for a reason.

GrandSportC3

R.P is actually $1 more expensive than Mobil 1.. I paid $6.99 per quart for Royal Purple...

hookedup

I buy M1 at Wally Mart in the 5 qt. jug, approx.$18-19 per, sometimes even less on sale.

Recently tore down the green car engine out of quilt, after many years of running it hard the bearings & pistons looked perfect! Could have been looking at pieces from an engine with 10 runs instead of one with 1000+ passes.

When the pistons decide to come back from shipper h3ll, you can bet after breakin there'll be M1 in the pan again.

Dave

GrandSportC3

The question is if it would've looked just as good with Royal Purple???

As I said, I ran Royal Purple in my old 383 and had no issues.. 20000 street miles and many drag strip passes..

JR-CRUZN-C5

Ran RP 41 for 1.5 years, saw some unusual wear, could be street related, nothing catistrophic, going back to Valvoline 20/50 racing oil.

JR

Brandon Terry

I have ran royal purple for years in my race car and street car(Motor & Rear end). I put over 200 passes on my car last season and have had no problems what so ever. Everytime I pull the motor down the bearing still look like new.. I would recommend royal purple to anyone!!!

427Hotrod

Royal Purple is good stuff. But there is a huge difference in street use RP and the real race oils.

I've seen a circle track motor survive lap after lap with literally no water in it (blown head gasket) and pulling into pits to *top it off* while running when under a caution and then going right back out on track. Temp gauge pegged just off the steam!! We would have sworn the engine would be dumpster bait...but during teardown we were amazed to see pistons, cam etc all perfect. Head was missing a 1" chunk between cylinders..but rotating parts including bearings were fine. Who knows what oil temps got to in that thing!! Takes a special oil to keep something like that going.

But again..this was race RP..not normal street stuff. We've also used the super thin race RP for qualifying and setting records..but it's about a one pass deal at the track..gets a little expensive. Plus you get nervous seeing oil pressure gauge almost on *0* at idle and only 40-45psi at 9000+ rpm!!! But it works!!

I was using regular street RP at BG last summer.


JIM

MIKE-C5

I run Royal Purple on my car and have no issues, also Peter Pan runs it and both cars run over 700RWHP