Can't decide between 2 tires for my drag pack. Help?
#1
Racer
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Can't decide between 2 tires for my drag pack. Help?
I own a 2002 Z06, with a haltech intake and a 150 shot.
I'm looking to buy a cheap set of repro C5Z rims for the front, and I'll use the lightweight true front speedlines as my drag rim for the rear. 17 x 9.5
I'm stuck between these 2 tires for the 17 x 9.5 Speedlines:
Mickies:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mickey-Thompso...oductId=746356
Hoosiers:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hoosier/522/17...oductId=760685
...I'm leaning toward the Hoosiers, opinions?
Thank you in advance,
-Hippo
I'm looking to buy a cheap set of repro C5Z rims for the front, and I'll use the lightweight true front speedlines as my drag rim for the rear. 17 x 9.5
I'm stuck between these 2 tires for the 17 x 9.5 Speedlines:
Mickies:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mickey-Thompso...oductId=746356
Hoosiers:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hoosier/522/17...oductId=760685
...I'm leaning toward the Hoosiers, opinions?
Thank you in advance,
-Hippo
#2
Team Owner
Generally speaking, the Hoosiers are a better drag radial.
Are you driving to (and from) the track on them or changing them once you get there?
And if driving there on them, how far is it to the track?
I've seen a set of Mickey Thompson drag radials outlast a set of Hoosier drag radials (same size) at a rate of almost 4 to 1 (160 passes versus only 40 passes) but that was an extreme case. Either way M/Ts will outlast Hoosiers all else being equal and will be more streetworthy/daily drivable in the process in my opinion.
Are you driving to (and from) the track on them or changing them once you get there?
And if driving there on them, how far is it to the track?
I've seen a set of Mickey Thompson drag radials outlast a set of Hoosier drag radials (same size) at a rate of almost 4 to 1 (160 passes versus only 40 passes) but that was an extreme case. Either way M/Ts will outlast Hoosiers all else being equal and will be more streetworthy/daily drivable in the process in my opinion.
#3
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Great information LS1LT1,
I do want them to hook on track AND street launches.
I would drive them on them quite a bit. Definately would be driven to the track. But would not be DD'd.
I do want them to hook on track AND street launches.
I would drive them on them quite a bit. Definately would be driven to the track. But would not be DD'd.
#4
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Generally speaking, the Hoosiers are a better drag radial.
Are you driving to (and from) the track on them or changing them once you get there?
And if driving there on them, how far is it to the track?
I've seen a set of Mickey Thompson drag radials outlast a set of Hoosier drag radials (same size) at a rate of almost 4 to 1 (160 passes versus only 40 passes) but that was an extreme case. Either way M/Ts will outlast Hoosiers all else being equal and will be more streetworthy/daily drivable in the process in my opinion.
Are you driving to (and from) the track on them or changing them once you get there?
And if driving there on them, how far is it to the track?
I've seen a set of Mickey Thompson drag radials outlast a set of Hoosier drag radials (same size) at a rate of almost 4 to 1 (160 passes versus only 40 passes) but that was an extreme case. Either way M/Ts will outlast Hoosiers all else being equal and will be more streetworthy/daily drivable in the process in my opinion.
#6
Team Owner
I've seen them starting to show the cords after only 600 street miles/35 passes.
I have a pair of 16" M/Ts that I bought new (the only drag radials out of the 14 pairs I've owned that I ever bought new actually) in 2005 that have over 7k street miles and 125+ passes on them and they still appear to have almost half their life remaining.
I think the M/Ts might suit your overall needs better.
That combined with the Hoosier's little lighter weight also contributes to one's final ET/MPH results as well.
I've gone a best of 1.51 on M/Ts with a bunch of 1.53s and a couple of 1.52s...my best on the Hoosiers was a 1.50 but that was only one time, all others were 1.51s - 1.53s as well. Same sizes and under similar conditions.
#8
Team Owner
Just under 400rwhp in a 6 speed automatic NA/bolt ons only C6.
Your car being a manual AND having nitrous will hit a lot harder than my car does of course. Depending on just how quickly you bring the nitrous in, some might even suggest that you go with the 17" M/T ET Streets (bias ply DOT legal slicks) but you can definitely get the drag radials to work.
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Your car being a manual AND having nitrous will hit a lot harder than my car does of course. Depending on just how quickly you bring the nitrous in, some might even suggest that you go with the 17" M/T ET Streets (bias ply DOT legal slicks) but you can definitely get the drag radials to work.
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Last edited by LS1LT1; 03-21-2012 at 12:58 PM.
#9
Race Director
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You can't drive on the street on the Hoosiers.
Just lift one up & you'll know why...
One stone or pebble will penetrate it, its so thin..
Track only> Hoosiers
Drive to & from & ON track> Mickeys
Just lift one up & you'll know why...
One stone or pebble will penetrate it, its so thin..
Track only> Hoosiers
Drive to & from & ON track> Mickeys
#10
AMP Racing
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If you're going to drive on the street, get the MT drag radial.
If you want 1.4 60' times, get the MT ET street bias ply. Be sure to run skinny fronts though.
You can't have both.
If you want 1.4 60' times, get the MT ET street bias ply. Be sure to run skinny fronts though.
You can't have both.
#12
Melting Slicks
when i had the mt dr's i was able to cut mid 1.4 sixties. with the hoosiers it was a best of 1.405 with the same setup. with a little more power now have cut mid 1.3's on the hoosiers