Question about using Nitrous
#1
Racer
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Question about using Nitrous
I have a few questions about nitrous. Assuming your motor was built to handle the occasional use of a wet nitrous system, and you have a system that can be jetted for 50, 75 or 100 hp, what type of ET gaines could you get with like a 75 shot? or maybe even the 100? Do you think you could knock a half a second off? Also those running it or who ran it at a track, when is the time to push the buttom? Do you usually wait until your half way down the track? I understand the science behind N2O, I just never understood when you would use it. And about how many runs to you get out of a 10lb tank? Thanks in advance for any information, I really appreciate it.
#2
AMP Racing
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While there are some that just "push the button", most let the electronics activate it. Less for the driver to deal with.
When I ran nitrous, I used a controller for WOT, Window switch, and timing retard to control a 100 shot.
Stock motor.
Ran about .8 quicker in my setup. YMMV.
There are many different controllers available.
There is a thread in the FI section discussing this very subject.
Good luck with it.
When I ran nitrous, I used a controller for WOT, Window switch, and timing retard to control a 100 shot.
Stock motor.
Ran about .8 quicker in my setup. YMMV.
There are many different controllers available.
There is a thread in the FI section discussing this very subject.
Good luck with it.
#3
Racer
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Thanks for the info. .8 would be great. This is a carb motor not dure if that matters. What is the FI section, I will look at the thread.
#4
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Ugh... Silly me for assuming you were talking about a C5...
Nonetheless, in the C5 forced induction section, there's a recent thread about nitrous.
Also, you could call some of the vendors on here to get their opinions.
Nonetheless, in the C5 forced induction section, there's a recent thread about nitrous.
Also, you could call some of the vendors on here to get their opinions.
#5
Racer
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Sorry, I should have specified. Yeah, its a late model C3 with a mildly worked 350.
#6
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Ok.
Get a WOT switch and use that to trigger the nitrous/fuel.
Get a window switch to control the rpm window that you want it to activate. This rpm window will be determined by your converter, max engine rpm, and transmission shift points.
If you use a typical system with a bottle heater, you should get 5-6 passes out of a 100 shot before you see some degradation in your ET. If you use a push system, you could see twice that.
Do you have a wide band o2 sensor in the car now? If not, you should get one to ensure your AFR is ok.
Also, remember to pull some timing when using nitrous.
Get a WOT switch and use that to trigger the nitrous/fuel.
Get a window switch to control the rpm window that you want it to activate. This rpm window will be determined by your converter, max engine rpm, and transmission shift points.
If you use a typical system with a bottle heater, you should get 5-6 passes out of a 100 shot before you see some degradation in your ET. If you use a push system, you could see twice that.
Do you have a wide band o2 sensor in the car now? If not, you should get one to ensure your AFR is ok.
Also, remember to pull some timing when using nitrous.
#7
Racer
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Ok.
Get a WOT switch and use that to trigger the nitrous/fuel.
Get a window switch to control the rpm window that you want it to activate. This rpm window will be determined by your converter, max engine rpm, and transmission shift points.
If you use a typical system with a bottle heater, you should get 5-6 passes out of a 100 shot before you see some degradation in your ET. If you use a push system, you could see twice that.
Do you have a wide band o2 sensor in the car now? If not, you should get one to ensure your AFR is ok.
Also, remember to pull some timing when using nitrous.
Get a WOT switch and use that to trigger the nitrous/fuel.
Get a window switch to control the rpm window that you want it to activate. This rpm window will be determined by your converter, max engine rpm, and transmission shift points.
If you use a typical system with a bottle heater, you should get 5-6 passes out of a 100 shot before you see some degradation in your ET. If you use a push system, you could see twice that.
Do you have a wide band o2 sensor in the car now? If not, you should get one to ensure your AFR is ok.
Also, remember to pull some timing when using nitrous.
#8
AMP Racing
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I had an additional switch for activation wired to my clutch pedal. It would shut the nitrous off when the clutch pedal was in any position other then full out.
There are o2 sensors available that can log data for the entire run and you can play back. I have a FAST dual wideband setup with a sensor in each bank. It has a logging function, although I've never used it.
Or, you could just read the plugs after every pass until you get it dialed in.
There are o2 sensors available that can log data for the entire run and you can play back. I have a FAST dual wideband setup with a sensor in each bank. It has a logging function, although I've never used it.
Or, you could just read the plugs after every pass until you get it dialed in.
#9
Safety Car
You need a window switch
I would not hit the n2 until I was down track,I used a nitrous controller for 4 or 5 hundred bucks ,it does beat up the noids but i would run large shots at times.A 100 shot is nothing just retard 3 deg and you should be fine if you run a bottle heater.
www.dragvette.com can help you with the rearend
100 shot should pull off a second with no problem.
I would not hit the n2 until I was down track,I used a nitrous controller for 4 or 5 hundred bucks ,it does beat up the noids but i would run large shots at times.A 100 shot is nothing just retard 3 deg and you should be fine if you run a bottle heater.
www.dragvette.com can help you with the rearend
100 shot should pull off a second with no problem.