Joe_G

You MUST stop if you're getting wheel hop. One of these times you're going to break it, trust me.

New or old, street tires are no bueno on the strip or even hard launches. They are the cause of your wheel hop.

Mickey Thompsons get good street life, a few thousand miles at least.

jakk

Oh yeah, believe me I stopped trying to do any sort of harder launch since I first experienced wheel hop and then read about how much damage it can do.

I'll look into a set of DRs for next year if I decide that I want to keep the car (part of me wants to trade the C6 for a 11-12 GT500). If I do decide to go with the DRs, can I just keep the front tires the same and only throw DRs on the rear, or should I look at replacing the fronts at the same time as well (I would assume I don't want drag radials on the front due to the limited tread, but maybe just a newer set of summer ties)?

I'm just surprised the wheel hop is this bad at stock power levels. I mean, the car comes with a launch control feature from the factory. You think that would be omitted if wheel hop and the rear end breaking were that big of an issue at stock power levels. Maybe the stock runflats had more give or spun more?

Joe_G

Heh...before you trade your Vette here's a video of my buddy's 550 rwhp GT-500...I was trying to coach him on how to get down the track faster and get out of the 12 second runs he was getting. In his defense his Nitto DR's are no better than street tires.

They are hard to get down the track quickly...most guys buy bias ply drag tires and dump the clutch (which you could never do in a vette).


You DON'T want to put dr's on the front. Street tires are great up front. When you want to go quicker, putting on skinnies up front and taking your passenger seat out will give you around 1.5 to 2 tenths.

jakk

Yeah, I know they have their issues putting power down as well, plus the extra weight takes away some of the power advantage you would get at equal levels with a vette. That being said, like you mentioned you can dump the clutch and abuse them a lot more due to the solid rear. Plus that blower whine is intoxicating.

I'm not looking to set records at the strip, I just want a car that I can hoon around with on the street and take to the strip occasionally. I like the ease of making power plus the light weight of the vette which gives it a nice advantage over other cars with more power. On the other hand, the GT500s are built for boost from the factory and a few grand of that in mosd will get you 600+ whp. Plus I've always had a thing for the 11-14 styling of the stangs. I'll just have to figure it out one way or another.

Thanks for all of the info so far. This is my first foray into RWD and anything over 320whp (was never really a "car guy" until two years ago when I got out of school) so I've got a lot of questions and am kind of all over the place from one day to the next on what I want to build out and the pros/cons of it all.

I wish I had a guy like you that could ride along and give me some pointers lol.

Joe_G

I do love the looks of the stang as well, and the exhaust note. I don't care for the blower whine.

My pleasure to help! I don't know where you are, but hopefully you can find a local hot shoe to give you a hand. I love going to the track and helping folks out. I also carry a screwdriver and remove clutch pedal springs at the track and people think I am amazing when their clutch no longer sticks to the floor. lol I bet I've done it for a dozen Vettes over the years. Do the Ranger clutch fluid swap and you'll be ok with your spring, until you put in a cam.

That ride along was a freak event...I was out of town visiting family and went to the track with friends, I noticed they were letting folks do ride alongs (!). End of the night, I said to him get one more run in...he came back and said they told him they were shutting down. I said ....I don't take no for an answer easily, so I got in with him, the dude at the starting line said we're closing and I said c'mon buddy, one more pass? He said ok...and didn't tell me to get out....lol couldn't believe it.

His car is a convertible by the way.

ajrothm

I broke a stock axle and a 300m axle when I had the M6 still in it.. Then one time it wheel hopped on a 1-2 shift on ET street bias plies and split the housing like a pumpkin, also breaking the 9310 G Force main shaft...

After all that mess, I switched to an auto and make about 5-6 passes.. Second trip out on a hard launch it snapped another 300m axle that came in my ECS/Eaton billet carrier, also chewed the ring gear..

Now it's rebuilt again with "500m" DSS axles (however they are not a TRUE 500m). I have not been to the track with this setup yet, I will probably T&T in Dec or so, but I will walk it out easy, I'm tired of breaking it... The car will go mid to low 1.3 60's on good passes IF it holds together..


JoeG you are driving the crap out of your car, props to you man... You're doing 10x better then I ever did with the stick.. I was usually 1.56-1.60's with the stick on bias plies, but it was usually spinning some.

GARY2004Z06

Love the tutelage in the vid Joe.

Joe_G

Thanks! Yea that was my second ride along, wish we could do that all the time like you can on the HPDE side of the track.

GARY2004Z06

We cannot up here. It would be a little easier to show someone exactly what you're doing as well as coaching.

Joe_G

Yea taking someone with you for a run would be very good too. My track doesn't do it either, I was out of town when I did this ride along. I learned to launch from listening to my buddy Retrocar launch, based on the sound and rhythm of his launch. My ⅛ mile track, since closed, would allow cars in the 10's but not much education goes on there. Matter of fact Immokalee will also do it but if you'e in the 7's the stop you after one run. All IHRA tracks.

As I'm typing this I wonder if PBIR will allow ride alongs as well now that they are IHRA....we could do ride alongs and show the launch and shifting, let off after the ⅛ and turn a 14 second run (but a 1.4 60 foot)........

dev1360

Sooooo wait...

Do the 2010+ Base TR6060s have 30 spline shafts? I was under the impression that all base manuals were 27.

I've also read that 09+ differentials got Z06 internal output shafts, any truth to this?

SacCityCorvette

Great run!
I notice that your oil pressure drops down into the 30 psi range through 2nd and 3rd gear then come up to around 50 psi in 4th gear. Is that safe? How many passes to you have on is with the oil pressure dropping like that? I ask because I am dealing with a similar thing. Mine runs 55psi up to around 5000 rpm and then starts dropping down to 37-40 psi by 7000 rpm. Its a c5 zo6 with a ls2 440 ci NA with a Melling 10296 HV pump. I don't think the pan is getting suck dry because I added a extra qt and it didn't make a difference. I even ran a mechanical gauge just to be sure.

Thanks
Christian

Joe_G

Thanks!

497 passes and 78,000 miles. All good.

SacCityCorvette

Well I guess that throws the 10psi per 1000rpm out the window! hahaha!

Do you think your gauge is correct? Mine reads 7psi higher than 3 different mechanical gauges that I tested with.

Thanks
Christian

sevinn

You also need to take I to account the fact that the pressure is dropping during his shifts and the gauge just can't keep up with him. That being said I've never gotten over 55 psi on a fully warmed wot run either on my scanner.

HC Mechanic

Wow!! That’s a LAUNCH Joe!!


I believe you just sold me on doing the most basic stage 2 diff upgrade available from RPM Transmissions:
https://www.rpmtransmissions.com/page45.html

Going to switch over to the 6060 with the ZR1 gear set. I’m not sure yet what rear gear I’m going to go with...might just stick with the 3:42’s for now. I know first is tall, but the spacing is VERY close ratio after that; additionally the clutch I selected will allow me to slip it as much as I please while still being ultra smooth. The clutch is a Monster LT1-S triple which is an organic friction clutch rated @ 1150 rwtq, about double what I plan to make with my maxed out n/a setup; I’m sure the clutch is going to be laughing at me at that power level...

I'm not as worried about how hard I can possibly come out of the hole as I primarily enjoy roll racing events & occasional road course work, which is the main reason why I’m really looking forward to having an ultra close ratio trans vs. my current z51; I would LOVE to have a word with the guy who designed that thing! LMAO

Thanks for all your contributions on this forum over the years Joe, really means a lot

HC Mechanic

I wonder what you would see if you added a quart...I’m guessing this isn’t a dry sump setup so if your getting less pressure drop in taller gears, I believe this has a bit to do with g-loading in 2nd & 3rd vs. 4th gear. Just a theory

Joe_G

Well thanks for the kind words! Made my day.

I've been away from the Forum a bit, I loved posting and the interactions and miss them. Facebook is a poor substitute, because you can never find any information once it's posted. I need to step back in from time to time.

Still have my Vette, drove it to work today, still same OE clutch, still runs great. You're probably right about the oil, but I never worried about it. But you can see why GM put a dry sump on the Z06!

Let us know how you end up and how you like it. I'd always recommend 4.10's for any work, but sounds like you have thought it through and have made your decision so keep us posted.

HC Mechanic

You’re very welcome Joe, good to hear from ya man!

What trans and diff are you running? I read that you had an issue with third gear at some point, and you’ve obviously went through the diff to put a 4:10 in it so I’m curious what your complete trans & diff setup looks like.

Joe_G

I've got a stock Z51 MZ6 trans in mine, with the 2.97 first gear. I believe that tall gear and my 4.10's is how I have 494 passes on my OE clutch and how I can get the 1.4's. I broke the third gear blocker ring at least once... I have the broken one in my console, maybe twice. I stopped shifting super fast after I broke the second one.

Your choice of a 6060 is a good one indeed. If you were planning to drag race a lot I'd encourage the Grand Sport 2.97 first gear and 4.10's unless you plan to go over 500 hp...then 3.90's would be better as you'll be better than 130 in the traps and 6800 redline with 4.10's is about 132 or so with 315-35-17 tires that are about 25" high or so.

Since you are primarily road course, you'll save some money (a lot actually) with the 3.42's and they are great for road course in my opinion. 4.10's are fine too in my experience but I'm not much of a road course guy.

6060 with Zr1 is one stout setup...how much power to you plan to put down? Z06 stuff is VERY stout and I'd have to guess a lot cheaper (and more common), I've never heard of people breaking them, but I have been out of the loop for a bit. Now you can get 4.10's for them, my buddy Craigster05 just got them in his z06. A z06 setup with 4.10's and a 2.97 6060 would make a bullet proof set up that would be a blast on street, strip or track. The 4.10's really make the car feel quick, you should drive one before you buy if you can. It makes a nice difference in feel every time you drive the car even when you're just putting around, it makes it feel so snappy.