You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join Corvetteforum.com today!
Yes, a dry sump will give between 60 and 75 hp. Not only does this control the oil better but it will also scavenge air when it is not scavenging oil. This creates a vaccum in the crankcase (if engine is sealed, no breathers) that helps seal the rings better, pull oil of parts adding up to a less rotating mass as well as better oil control. It also depends on how many stage pump you choose to use. This could be installed on any car but it is critical to use the correct oil pan with a big kick out to take full advantage. I have one on my street car that makes 1080 hp with out nitrous. They are on the expensive side, around $2500.
Dry sumps dont add HP, it actually takes HP to drive them as they are really double pumps in the oil pan. They do have advantages, but also carry a lot of baggage. Such as a necessary large capacity remote oil tank and several lines running between the original pan and the remote tank. And the original pan never does get completely empty but that is a positive advantage making for smaller engine fires when a rod goes out the side at high RPMS`
What a Dry sump gives you is "peace of mind" by having an adequate supply of oil....I don`t know about 60-75 hp but I am sure you get some due to the oil being scavenged out of the pan and NOT causing a paracitic drag on the crank, but unless your willing to "step up" to a custom set of headers a big kickout pan will not fit a Corvette frame...as to price, you can do it MUCH cheaper than $2500 although I have seen a $2500 oil pan so I guess it`s all in the components you pick, some pumps are scavenging so much oil out of the pan they actually have to reintroduce a spray of oil onto the piston pins for lubrication. I don`t really think it`s too practical for a street application as I remove the belt and prime the pump at the beginning of each weekend and heat the oil before EVERY startup. That being said I would NEVER race a car without a drysump system.
for high hp aplications then i would recmend one or for modded cars doing road course. as for the power thing, well it takes less energy to drive a dry sump system than it does a conventional set up. so you are not making more power, just not using as much. there will be a weight gain. also a dry sump lets you mount the additional weight you have in a better place (ie in the back) to better weight distribusion. also as other have said it give you total piece of mind! even if the pumps cant get any oil, the system will still suply a constant presure, thanks to the tank. also the tank allows additional oil cooling (you could even have additional cooling in the tank).
and if it good enough for F1, WRC, BTCC, etc, etc, etc, its good enough for me! :-)
Where do you find shops that will install these systems . Better yet, who sells the systems? I have a stroked out '87 and I googled a few places for information. I didn't get much help. Thanks.
Im about 6 hous away, I could set you up. I am in the process of finishing my own dry sump setup in my car (see avatar or www.baldturbfreak.com) Im sure your car will be no problem. It requires a custom drive mandrel to make it fit in behind the rack. I had to completely resdesign the accesory package to make it work,as my 5 stage would only fit up high on the driver's head. Your atmo engine allows us to run a 4 stage and still make good crankcase vacuum (so long as you buy a peterson or autoverdi pump) it can be run off your camshaft using a sprint car timing cover , utilizing a remote electric water pump. The oil tank is a stef's that fits in your rear compartment. It helps with weight distribution.