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Cast VS.Forged Crank

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Old 10-13-2001, 05:08 PM
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KYVette90
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Default Cast VS.Forged Crank

I want to build a 383 and am looking for at least 450hp. Would a cast crank stand up to this hp? Also are Keith Black Hyperuetetic pistons any good? I've heard of several people who say they break alot. My friend had a 400 small block that cracked two of these pistons. Any experience with them? Thanks. :cheers:
Old 10-13-2001, 07:27 PM
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CarbedC4
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Default Re: Cast VS.Forged Crank (KYVette90)

well ive got a eagle cast stroker crank, no probs. and those pistons no problems
Old 10-14-2001, 03:40 PM
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Cory@LS2PortWorks
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St. Jude Donor '09
Default Re: Cast VS.Forged Crank (KYVette90)

Hypers are okay, but forged is always better.

Look at the Scat 9000 series crank. Almost as good as forged... way better than cast.... not nearly the forged price.

Cory
Old 10-14-2001, 03:41 PM
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Cory@LS2PortWorks
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St. Jude Donor '09
Default Re: Cast VS.Forged Crank (CHarris85Vette)

Absolutely run a forged rod!

Cory
Old 10-15-2001, 01:22 AM
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jdunne
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Default Re: Cast VS.Forged Crank (KYVette90)

the Eagle 4340 crank & rods seem good value....with the pistons the JE SRP are well worth looking at....not cheap,but very good......with the rods,the H beams seem to be regarded as better......john :chevy
Old 10-15-2001, 10:01 PM
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korvetkeith
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Default Re: Cast VS.Forged Crank (jdunne)

A Scat 9000 is cast nodular iron crank, its only a little step down from a forged crank in strength, but a huge step down in price. I'v heard it called "semi indestructible" It'll deffinately be fine with "only" 450hp. David Vizard likes it too, he's only an engine building genius, he used one for like a 550hp NA 383 with something like 700+ on nitrous.

If your gonna drop alot of cash on anything in your bottom end, make it the rods.

As far as pistons I would say KBs are ok for under 500hp, but then people like CarbedC4 go and juice on them to 600+. Who knows, I'd say pay more attention in assembling the bottom end, as that area is more likely to be neglected and more likely to cause failure.
Old 10-17-2001, 09:47 AM
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DeenHylton
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Default Re: Cast VS.Forged Crank (KYVette90)

I'm running hypers and the "economy" Eagle I beam rods on my blown 350. They say they are good for 500 H.P. and that's about what I'm making now...so far so good. I did call Eagle and got there advise on running nitrous with my blower, they said to go to a H beam rod.
Old 10-17-2001, 10:40 AM
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BlueShark29
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Default Re: Cast VS.Forged Crank (KYVette90)

Cast cranks are good for that HP, especially street driven with occaisionally sprints on a track. They just don't hold up for sustained speeds at or above 6,000 rpm.
I am running a 383 in my '81 Vette, daily driver. Two bolt main 350 block, Summit cast crank (nicely priced w/ radiused journals) externally balanced, Chevy 5.7 rods (balanced, polished), and KB Hyper pistons, AFR 195 heads, Lunati hydraulic roller cam (219/227 @ .050, .502/.544 lift w/ 1.6 roller rockers), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 1000 cfm fuel inj. unit, Hooker Super Comp coated headers.
Although I have not dyno'd this motor, I feel that I am pushing the 450 HP mark, and drive it daily in town and maily highway.
Old 10-21-2001, 12:45 PM
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h rocks
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Default Re: Cast VS.Forged Crank (jdunne)

I was looking at the Eagle stuff too, but was "counciled" by a respected engine builder in the Cleveland area, not to go for it. He states that he was not impressed with the quality and that many of the forgings are made in China. Don't know if that's true. (Or, if it makes a difference to you)
Old 10-21-2001, 07:09 PM
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jdunne
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Default Re: Cast VS.Forged Crank (h rocks)

I am told that some Eagle cranks are made in China.....I really don't care where they come from and so long as they do the job properly,who cares....john :chevy
Old 10-25-2001, 05:38 PM
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gcrouse
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Default Re: Cast VS.Forged Crank (KYVette90)

I think the order of breakage is: ring, rod bolt, piston, rod, crank; so there's a lot of other stuff to beef up first! At your power level and street RPM, you're fine with a cast crank.

I too used the Scat9000 after many recommendations and it's holding up fine in my supercharged motor with close to 600ft-lb of torque. You should consider ARP main studs also. Definitely get some 4340 forged rods and ARP bolts. Those pistons should be fine as long as you're not thinking N0x or blower in the future. Get a good ring set: Childs & Albert zero-gap.

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