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Good dealer for Wiggle Test in NE Pa (Phila Area)?

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Old 09-18-2014, 01:04 PM
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agentf1
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Default Good dealer for Wiggle Test in NE Pa (Phila Area)?

Who is a Good dealer for Wiggle Test in NE Pa (Phila Area)?

I am thinking about Bryner since that seems to be who everybody is using and recommends but it sounds like they have never done the wiggle test before after talking to them. They are also saying $800 as they think the SC needs to come off. I think they must be thinking they need to pull the heads off when I do not think you do. I am waiting on a call back.

At $800 I am 1/2 way there to fixing it although not sure who is best for this in my area. I have quite a few choices.

I just want pieces of mind when driving this car.

Thoughts?
Old 09-18-2014, 01:54 PM
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Ol'55
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Originally Posted by agentf1
Who is a Good dealer for Wiggle Test in NE Pa (Phila Area)?

I am thinking about Bryner since that seems to be who everybody is using and recommends but it sounds like they have never done the wiggle test before after talking to them. They are also saying $800 as they think the SC needs to come off. I think they must be thinking they need to pull the heads off when I do not think you do. I am waiting on a call back.

At $800 I am 1/2 way there to fixing it although not sure who is best for this in my area. I have quite a few choices.

I just want pieces of mind when driving this car.

Thoughts?
Frank? I HAVE peace of mind, but not before doing heads and cam,LOL! My suggestion is what does Callway say? Or for that matter what does Fran and Bill say? Also after this years work the car dynoed 544 at the rear wheels naturally aspirated. That's like an increase of 123 HP over the stock 421 (again at the rear wheels). I believe that equates (I'm not good at math) to over 640 at the crank? I myself didn't do the heads and cam for any reason other than the threat that you yourself are concerned with, but more horses isn't a bad thing either,LOL! I've seen some cars at RPM with over 1000 hp, what the bottom end consists of I could only guess.
Old 09-18-2014, 02:05 PM
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agentf1
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Originally Posted by Callaway
Our engineering department has not identified the same issues, so we do not have any specific recommendations or endorsements at this time.
I have to say I was a little disappointed with Callaway's response.

I know RPM is saying go with the solid SS valves. I have read that this motor was designed for the light weight valve train. I do trust Fran and respect his opinion as I think he is one of the best tuners in our area but I would like to see it replaced with better light weight valves similar to what the factory uses. I think Katech has a light weigh solution, not sure, just really getting serious about looking into this.

I hate to say it but the Porsche 997.1 TT with the Metzger engines are bullet proof. I have been a Vette guy all my life, I really hate to jump ship over something like this. The plus side would be having competent dealerships to work on the cars. That said I am getting way ahead of myself. Back to the topic.

And I have been very happy with the few dealings I have had with Byner, just wish they were closer to me.

Last edited by agentf1; 09-18-2014 at 02:11 PM.
Old 09-18-2014, 05:47 PM
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Feel free to give us a call. We are not far from you and have a few different options for the LS7 heads.

Josh
(302)838-2188
horsepoweraddicts@gmail.com
Old 09-18-2014, 06:56 PM
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0Callaway Chris
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Originally Posted by agentf1
I have to say I was a little disappointed with Callaway's response.
Frank, I am sorry you did not find our response helpful, as we have yet to see a car with any issues, but agree there is a lot of internet chatter.

Based upon your response and position in the thread, you may want to consider "fixing" the issue vs. just paying to have them inspected, as you would probably rest easier with the end result.

Again, sorry our response wasn't taken with more assurance.
Old 09-18-2014, 07:07 PM
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agentf1
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Originally Posted by Callaway Chris
Frank, I am sorry you did not find our response helpful, as we have yet to see a car with any issues, but agree there is a lot of internet chatter.

Based upon your response and position in the thread, you may want to consider "fixing" the issue vs. just paying to have them inspected, as you would probably rest easier with the end result.

Again, sorry our response wasn't taken with more assurance.
Not to put you on the spot again but can you tell me what the definitive fix is? Do you recommend going the stainless steel valve route despite the fact that I would be introducing a lot more weight to the valve train?

I just read an article in one of the Vette magazines which advised against this. There are so many opinions out there which one is correct.

Last edited by agentf1; 09-18-2014 at 07:13 PM.

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