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Old 08-08-2009, 02:32 PM   #1
Dakota 6
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Default DIY Car Ramps??

Anyone build a set of DIY car ramps for your vette? is it worth it? Or is it just better to buy rhino ramps?
I saw a build scheme that used 2x10s.

How much do 2x10 (or 12)s cost at lowes/home depot per 8-12 feet?

Only mod I would make on this, is I would put some slots across the top level, and then take some scrap wood to make "catches" for the tires.

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Old 08-08-2009, 02:34 PM   #2
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We have some that Bryan made out of wood and they work awesome. We've have hosted a lot of "Corvette Saturdays" where we changed oils and whatnots with them. They work good!!!!!
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Old 08-08-2009, 02:39 PM   #3
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floor jacks and jack stands make me feel secure. ramps make me shudder.
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Old 08-08-2009, 02:40 PM   #4
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I was in lowes 2 days ago kind of thinking about the same thing. They do have 4"X6"X8' for $13.00 each. If you had a good way to cut a wedge into the thing to drive up on, it would work well. You could also put 3 2X4's underneath and do 2 4X6's wide. If you have a smooth garage floor you might want to put some kind of tacky surface on the bottom of the ramp to keep it from sliding forward.

I didn't see any 6"X6", but if they did have them, they would be even better.
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Old 08-08-2009, 02:42 PM   #5
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Though useful, wood ramps are heavy and constructing them is time consuming.

Here's a DIY I devised and posted in CFC6 a few years ago when I could still stomach endless threads about suspensions and Z51 badges:



Grey 6K# Rhino Ramps are inexpensive, lightweight, well-constructed ramps that are adequately wide and supportive.

The problem with these ramps is that their angle of approach causes the flexible air dam of the C6 to impinge on them.

Options exist to eliminate this issue. One is to place a board or two at the beginning of the ramp to elevate the front of the C6. The problem with this method is the potential for board and /or ramp slippage. The other option is to purchase extra long, very low angle of approach ramps.

The following simple project allows the use of the DIY ramps as stand alone ramps to elevate the vehicle or as Rhino Ramp extensions if greater lift is required.

Steps:

1. Go to your local lumber yard and purchase 2x12 Douglas fir boards.
If they're damp, let them dry slowly.

2. Cut the boards to the following lengths:
(2) 51"
(2) 27"

3. Cut one of the ends of each board at a 45 degree angle to faciltate approach of the vehicle onto the board. 45 degrees is an easy cut with a circular or table saw and is adequate to keep the ramps from being pushed by the tires.

4. Drill a 7/16" or slightly smaller hole in the shorter board 1 3/8" from the straight end and centered.

5. Using steel screws, attach the shorter board to the longer board, offset by 3".

6. Cut the threads off of a carriage bolt, grind off the shoulders under the cap if you prefer, and drive the bolt, now an indexing pin, through the hole.

7. Cut a 2x4 to the width of the ramp, predrill and attach it to the ramp about one inch back from the end of the lower board. This is essential to eliminate any risk of the ramp tipping when used independently from the Rhino Ramps. Needless to say, the 2x4 stop is removed when the ramps are used in conjunction with Rhino Ramps. (Duh.)

8. When the ramps are utilized with Rhino Ramps, simply slip the indexing pin into the Rhino Ramp hole located at the beginning of the ramp to prevent the Rhino Ramp from slipping as the vehicle starts its ascent on them.


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Old 08-08-2009, 02:45 PM   #6
Omaha02Z06
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I have a set that I have used for years now. They are 2x8ís same design as yours but only 3 tiers. For minor work they are good. Really havenít used them much on the vette since it is so low though.

If you wanted to save some money I would check new construction homes. Usually the framers will have left over scrap they will give you otherwise itíll just be getting thrown away.
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Old 08-08-2009, 02:46 PM   #7
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that looks good
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Old 08-08-2009, 02:52 PM   #8
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I made mine out of 2x4's and 1/2" plywood. 47" long, 12" wide, 10" high, tapered from the ground until it meets the flat spot that is 15" long at the end (10" high). Glue 3 2x4's on edge 47" long and cut at an angle starting at 15" down to the end. This piece goes down the center. Cut 2 pieces of plywood the same for each outside. Cut 4 pieces of plywood, 2 for the ramp, 2 for the flat spot. Cut 6 pieces of 2x4's about 4 1/2" (cut them the distance from the center board to the inside edge of the side plywood pieces. Alternate the short 2x4's on each side of the center board to each side plywood. Install the ramp plywood and the flat spot plywood. Ramp and flat plywood must lay on top of the center and both both sides. Glue all joints and use wood screws. I've been using my ramps for my 87 vette for 20 years.
PM me your email address and I'll send you pics.
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Old 08-08-2009, 03:34 PM   #9
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Do a search in C5 Gen on mercury ramps. Mike made an awesome set and included drawings.
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:24 PM   #10
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Who drew that, Tit Rat?
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Old 08-08-2009, 05:50 PM   #11
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I have a set that I made two boards high. The idea is to get the car just high enough so you can get a jack under the front and lift from the center then get jack stands under it.

I also have one board that I roll be back of the car onto to create clearance under the bumper when the front it up in the air. Ramps are cool, but ya have to get the back of the car up for an oil change too so a jack and some stands are necessary.

Its supprising how sturdy the car is when its 18" in the air on jack stands
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:09 PM   #12
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I'm a big fan of my Kwiklift.

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Old 08-08-2009, 06:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcread View Post
I'm a big fan of my Kwiklift.

Click the image to open in full size.
That's a really nice set-up. What's that run?
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:16 PM   #14
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I know i've seen someone in the C4 section who built a set out of 2x12/s years ago.

i don't know who or how long ago i saw it but i do remember what they looked like.

every other piece interlocked/overlapped with one another but were not permanently secured. That way they were able to take them apart into 1/2's and store them easier and in a smaller area.

Like interlocking miter joints...
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeutronVette View Post
That's a really nice set-up. What's that run?
$1500 shipped and a month and half of "It's at the powdercoaters and will ship in a couple days"

Worth the wait, though.
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:27 PM   #16
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Click the image to open in full size.

$25 for Rhino ramps, and $10 for a Trex deck plank.
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:09 PM   #17
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I have DIY ramps made from 2x12s to get the car high enough for a craftsman jack with a crossbeam. To keep the ramps from kicking out when driving up on them mount a piece of plywood on the bottom that sticks out in front of the first 2x12 by about 1'
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:22 PM   #18
psychodiagnostik
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I mostly use jackstands, and a decent floor jack. I jack my C4 up and set the wheels down on steel ramps once in a while, but ramps and Kwiklifts are useless for brakes and suspension work.
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychodiagnostik View Post
I mostly use jackstands, and a decent floor jack. I jack my C4 up and set the wheels down on steel ramps once in a while, but ramps and Kwiklifts are useless for brakes and suspension work.
Lift bridge... you can get the wheels off.
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kale View Post
$1500 shipped and a month and half of "It's at the powdercoaters and will ship in a couple days"

Worth the wait, though.
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:19 PM
 
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