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Old 10-03-2009, 10:34 PM   #1
Gnfanatic
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Default Any of you guys installed hardi plank??

Hey guys, I am working out plans to install Hardie plank (James Hardie) on my brothers house. I am also planning to use azek trim and stainless nails. This is what I am planning to do....

1- Install all mouldings first.
2- Drill holes and hammer in ss nails, no gun.
3- 1/8 inch gap at ends for room of expansion, high end caulk will be used.
4- add additional house wrap behind each plank seam.

Question, Planks that will have a seam, how do I cut the seam?? do I cut it at a certain angle or straight??? People now say NOT to use caulk on the plank seams, only the ends. why??

Any other tips?? I want to make sure I dont screw anything up, stuff isnt cheap!
thanks!!
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:06 PM   #2
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Google - hardiplank install - Lots of good info...
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:40 PM   #3
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Well it has been a few years since the last time I installed it,You don't want to leave gaps in the butt seems of the planking it would look like hell.I would cut the factory edges to make them true and butt together.

I would also paint all the cut edges to seal the planking,That is the kind of thing that separates the good from the average and will prolong the the life of the siding.I can't remember if you can sink the nails all the way on the Hardi or not because of expandtion and contraction,I would think thats the case with the aztec;
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:41 PM   #4
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:59 PM   #5
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thanks Kobie, I heard about the priming as well. they say not to let the nail head sink in the plank. Thats why I wont use the gun.
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Old 10-04-2009, 12:01 AM   #6
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hire some guys from Louisiana...make sure they have gold teeth so they can do the job right
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Old 10-04-2009, 12:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gnfanatic View Post
thanks Kobie, I heard about the priming as well. they say not to let the nail head sink in the plank. Thats why I wont use the gun.
I have not installed any in about 13 years,But I did use a nail gun and I just turned down the pressure and sank the nail with a hammer to the right depth.It will be hard to nail the planking freehand

The nails were not cheap,I think it was like $250.00 bucks for a box and I think they were shank's.

If your siding is tapered (Stepped)I do believe they sell a filler that Tappers from say a 1/2 to nothing,You use these to fill the gaps next to the Aztec instead of trying to caulk
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:34 AM   #8
AU N EGL
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Dont you need a Diamond tip saw blade to cut the stuff? and have few blades around.
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Old 10-04-2009, 10:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AU N EGL View Post
Dont you need a Diamond tip saw blade to cut the stuff? and have few blades around.
Yes, I used diamond saw blades. They are not the real expensive type but they do cost more.

I am not recommending this but it is what I did. I used a roofing nail gun and (coiled) roofing nails.Left some expansion on the ends but not where I butted them together. Good caulk, as always, is your friend. Using a level on each board is important.

some time the nail gun caused the board to crack but not enough to matter.

If you want to use nails, there is a soft metal spiral nail that is recommended for hardiplank. The cutter may need to use a mask.
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Old 10-04-2009, 03:53 PM   #10
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Some misinformation in this thread.

1st to the OP:
#1...I highly recommend you install all trim on corners/windows/doors/at soffit/etc., first...then but the Hardie planks and caulk (I think "Big Stretch" is the best paintable caulk for exterior use)

#2...Yes, drill and nail. Few points here (no doubt full of opinions)...We run the siding planks by top nailing with minimum roofing nails, just to get the wall run...then we snap lines where the studs are...pre-drill and nail the bottom of the planks with the SS nails (several manufactures, I like Swan Secure 316 stainless steel 2-1/2" ring shank 8d siding nails...made in the USA in my old hometown Baltimore , MD. DO NOT use cheap Chinese nails for this job!! You will regret it.)

Many live by the rule: "don't bottom nail...don't caulk the bottoms of the planks". Do it however you wish...but I spoke to Hardie...they recommended bottom nailing for best wind protection...and as long as you have moisture exit at the bottom of the siding wall, it looks much better caulked and painted.

Here I'll mention the prefinished Hardie planks. nuff said.

#3...Do not "gap" the butts to trim...and do not gap the siding plank butts. Note here: DO NOT (per Hardie Co. instructions) cut or trim the planks where they butt together. Here we caulk with bigstreach and paint. The Hardie planks do not expand like wood or vinyl...that's the beauty of it, and it's why paint lasts so long on the Hardie.

#4...Not necessary. Believe me...if properly applied, caulked and painted...there will be almost Zero moisture getting behind the Hardie.

A note on the nails: The ss 8d nails have a small waffer head...if you face nail and use the wood grain side of the Hardie planks...after painted they disappear. You don't need to sink and putty the nails. Plus, Hardie is not that thick @ 5/16"...so sinking the nail heads would do more harm than good.

A note on cutting: Hardie Co. makes a pair of electric shears, much like metal shears, that cut the planks like buttah. Both across the "grain", and along the "grain" (rips).
If you're hellbent on using a power-saw (sometimes you have to)...wear eye and breathing protection!!! SERIOUS!!!

A note on wet installation: DO NOT DO IT. Don't install the Hardie planks if they are wet...even a little bit moist. Here on the beach, we had a few days where the fog was so thick, we couldn't run siding.

AND...I know a few other "trade secrets" that make the final product look like the pics I've provided...
But those will cost ya.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-04-2009, 05:38 PM   #11
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I used 4x8 Hardiboard sheets on the outside of my room addition, screwed in place no nails....been there 8 years and perfect....joint sealed tight as the Egyptian tombs.....

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Old 10-04-2009, 06:09 PM   #12
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I just finished siding my house last summer in HardiPlanks. Shot with a roofing nail gun made the job pretty easy. The best thing was these little clips. Level the first course then put one of these clips at each end, set the next plank on the clips and you have automatic spacing. Just nail em up! The clips and the roofing nailer are big time savers!

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-04-2009, 06:41 PM   #13
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home depot and lowe's sell a "hardiBlade" for cutting the siding with a skill saw. and yes wear respiratory protection unless you feel like doing lines of concrete
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Old 10-04-2009, 06:42 PM   #14
carlton_fritz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsAtTheBeach View Post
Some misinformation in this thread.

1st to the OP:
#1...I highly recommend you install all trim on corners/windows/doors/at soffit/etc., first...then but the Hardie planks and caulk (I think "Big Stretch" is the best paintable caulk for exterior use)

#2...Yes, drill and nail. Few points here (no doubt full of opinions)...We run the siding planks by top nailing with minimum roofing nails, just to get the wall run...then we snap lines where the studs are...pre-drill and nail the bottom of the planks with the SS nails (several manufactures, I like Swan Secure 316 stainless steel 2-1/2" ring shank 8d siding nails...made in the USA in my old hometown Baltimore , MD. DO NOT use cheap Chinese nails for this job!! You will regret it.)

Many live by the rule: "don't bottom nail...don't caulk the bottoms of the planks". Do it however you wish...but I spoke to Hardie...they recommended bottom nailing for best wind protection...and as long as you have moisture exit at the bottom of the siding wall, it looks much better caulked and painted.

Here I'll mention the prefinished Hardie planks. nuff said.

#3...Do not "gap" the butts to trim...and do not gap the siding plank butts. Note here: DO NOT (per Hardie Co. instructions) cut or trim the planks where they butt together. Here we caulk with bigstreach and paint. The Hardie planks do not expand like wood or vinyl...that's the beauty of it, and it's why paint lasts so long on the Hardie.

#4...Not necessary. Believe me...if properly applied, caulked and painted...there will be almost Zero moisture getting behind the Hardie.

A note on the nails: The ss 8d nails have a small waffer head...if you face nail and use the wood grain side of the Hardie planks...after painted they disappear. You don't need to sink and putty the nails. Plus, Hardie is not that thick @ 5/16"...so sinking the nail heads would do more harm than good.

A note on cutting: Hardie Co. makes a pair of electric shears, much like metal shears, that cut the planks like buttah. Both across the "grain", and along the "grain" (rips).
If you're hellbent on using a power-saw (sometimes you have to)...wear eye and breathing protection!!! SERIOUS!!!

A note on wet installation: DO NOT DO IT. Don't install the Hardie planks if they are wet...even a little bit moist. Here on the beach, we had a few days where the fog was so thick, we couldn't run siding.

AND...I know a few other "trade secrets" that make the final product look like the pics I've provided...
But those will cost ya.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
I see empty windows in need of some window treatments.
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:42 PM   #15
LarsAtTheBeach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlton_fritz View Post
I see empty windows in need of some window treatments.
Done.

Can't beat Home Depot. Custom made Bali...great price and pretty damn good install job.

That gets the windows covered...the decorator and my wife however...they will take it "To a Whole 'Nother Level"
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Old 10-04-2009, 08:13 PM   #16
ruacop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsAtTheBeach View Post
1st to the OP:
#1...I highly recommend you install all trim on corners/windows/doors/at soffit/etc., first...then but the Hardie planks and caulk (I think "Big Stretch" is the best paintable caulk for exterior use)

#2...Yes, drill and nail. Few points here (no doubt full of opinions)...We run the siding planks by top nailing with minimum roofing nails, just to get the wall run...then we snap lines where the studs are...pre-drill and nail the bottom of the planks with the SS nails (several manufactures, I like Swan Secure 316 stainless steel 2-1/2" ring shank 8d siding nails...made in the USA in my old hometown Baltimore , MD. DO NOT use cheap Chinese nails for this job!! You will regret it.)

Many live by the rule: "don't bottom nail...don't caulk the bottoms of the planks". Do it however you wish...but I spoke to Hardie...they recommended bottom nailing for best wind protection...and as long as you have moisture exit at the bottom of the siding wall, it looks much better caulked and painted.

Here I'll mention the prefinished Hardie planks. nuff said.

#3...Do not "gap" the butts to trim...and do not gap the siding plank butts. Note here: DO NOT (per Hardie Co. instructions) cut or trim the planks where they butt together. Here we caulk with bigstreach and paint. The Hardie planks do not expand like wood or vinyl...that's the beauty of it, and it's why paint lasts so long on the Hardie.

#4...Not necessary. Believe me...if properly applied, caulked and painted...there will be almost Zero moisture getting behind the Hardie.

A note on the nails: The ss 8d nails have a small waffer head...if you face nail and use the wood grain side of the Hardie planks...after painted they disappear. You don't need to sink and putty the nails. Plus, Hardie is not that thick @ 5/16"...so sinking the nail heads would do more harm than good.

A note on cutting: Hardie Co. makes a pair of electric shears, much like metal shears, that cut the planks like buttah. Both across the "grain", and along the "grain" (rips).
If you're hellbent on using a power-saw (sometimes you have to)...wear eye and breathing protection!!! SERIOUS!!!

A note on wet installation: DO NOT DO IT. Don't install the Hardie planks if they are wet...even a little bit moist. Here on the beach, we had a few days where the fog was so thick, we couldn't run siding.

AND...I know a few other "trade secrets" that make the final product look like the pics I've provided...
But those will cost ya.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I don't care what Repo thinks, that was a good and informational post.
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:05 PM   #17
LarsAtTheBeach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruacop View Post
I don't care what Repo thinks, that was a good and informational post.
Thanks man.

btw...I like Repo...and usually agree with his perspectives...but he is a good one to debate as well.
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:31 PM   #18
DBlack1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsAtTheBeach View Post
Done.

Can't beat Home Depot. Custom made Bali...great price and pretty damn good install job.

That gets the windows covered...the decorator and my wife however...they will take it "To a Whole 'Nother Level"
Whats the ceiling made of on the porch. Third pic from the bottom?
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:22 PM   #19
LarsAtTheBeach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBlack1 View Post
Whats the ceiling made of on the porch. Third pic from the bottom?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsAtTheBeach View Post
AND...I know a few other "trade secrets" that make the final product look like the pics I've provided...
But those will cost ya.
jk...


1/2" Mahogany plywood and 1x2 batten strips...plus many many man hours, priming...caulking...puttying...sanding. ..before 2 prime and 3 finish coats were sprayed on. We used Zinsser oil based primer & Behr exterior semigloss finish.

The ceilings and the overhangs were the only painting done outside with a spray rig...ALL the exterior trim and Hardie plank siding was brushed.

The finish on the home exceeded my expectations...The cost exceeded my budget.
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:22 PM
 
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