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Old 09-23-2012, 09:33 PM   #1
Pilot Dan
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Default Ot but relevant if you own a 2000-2007 chevy truck especially if towing (vette)

I recently purchased a very clean low mileage 2004 Chevy Silverado and upon purchase inspection saw corrosion on the front brake lines, did not think much of it and purchased the vehicle (with proper deducton in price for what I saw). Got to looking at the entire brake system and was horriified to find the bean counters placed the ABS module under the drivers door with all the brake lines (bare and uncoated steel) routed on an unshielded outer portion on the frame behind the left front wheel. Looks worse than my other 24 year old truck which is outside all the time.
Here is what the brake lines looked like (MC has 2 feeds to ABS box under drivers door and the lines are then routed back to the 2 front wheels ) :

Click the image to open in full size.

I post this here because I know many of you tow cars (as seen in Carlisle) and this is a serious issue with many accidents and well documented complaints from very low mileage vehicles that GM refuses to accept responsibility for. GM Dealers have been charging over $3K to fix it. I am doing my own (and it's a PITA hard job). I was thinking of the C2 owners when I did the rear line as to this day, they still put it on top of the frame Here's the link with tons of info if you have this problem and how owners were left holding the bag for a poor original design and very low grade original parts.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...d/274830/tp/1/

Don't want to see anyone loose a prized car because of this. Pilot Dan

Last edited by Pilot Dan; 09-23-2012 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:29 AM   #2
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Good point Dan. I went through this issue with my 1999 Chevy truck. Last year I replaced my lines for the 3rd time, although this time I used a pre-bent stainless steel kit from Inline Tube. Something to keep in mind, for people doing this is, that to bleed the system properly, the ABS system needs to be bled using a diagnostic tool.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:32 AM   #3
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We do those at my shop all the time. Just did an 03 Escalade last week. We buy the lines as a kit. They come in stainless if you want. We just lift the body off the frame. The way the lines route around the frame and the fuel tank to the ABS is impossible unless you hack up your own lines.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:27 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soupt View Post
Something to keep in mind, for people doing this is, that to bleed the system properly, the ABS system needs to be bled using a diagnostic tool.
I had read that and will be dealing with that problem in a day or so. I will try to find someone to get that from.

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We do those at my shop all the time. Just did an 03 Escalade last week. We buy the lines as a kit. They come in stainless if you want. We just lift the body off the frame. The way the lines route around the frame and the fuel tank to the ABS is impossible unless you hack up your own lines.
I was thinking that but thought it would involve too much time. I bought 2 rolls of brake line and made the lines myself out of a new tubing called NI COPP which is super easy to work with and bend in tight areas and promises never to rust since it's copper coated with nickel. Hope it works out well in the long run.

Thanks for the replies.


ps heres a photo of the finished job:
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by Pilot Dan; 09-24-2012 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilot Dan View Post
I was thinking that but thought it would involve too much time. I bought 2 rolls of brake line and made the lines myself out of a new tubing called NI COPP which is super easy to work with and bend in tight areas and promises never to rust since it's copper coated with nickel.
Are the lines actually copper, coated with nickel, or are they steel coated with copper and nickel?
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:38 PM   #6
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Default Link to the MFG site Ni Copp

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Originally Posted by JohnZ View Post
Are the lines actually copper, coated with nickel, or are they steel coated with copper and nickel?
John, mostly copper and nickel, NO STEEL. Here is a link to the info page on the mfg website:

http://www.agscompany.com/automotive...ines/nicopp/11

I would be interested in your opinion (and others who wrench) of this product. Be kind, for better or worse, this job is done now. I don't think I could have done it (with the body on) without this. It's much easier to bend by hand with limited access.

It was much easier to work with in the very tight areas between the body and the frame. I have not seen any feedback from people who have used it so I guess I am the Guinee Pig. I can see how this could be very usefull in replacing some of the hard to reach lines in the Corvettes possibly as well.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:44 PM   #7
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I know what the OP means about placement of ABS etc..

Neither my 02 Tahoe Z-71 (125kmiles) or my 2007 Silverado SS (37k Miles) have any corrosion on those lines. But I don't live in the snow or rust belt.

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Old 09-24-2012, 08:05 PM   #8
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Ni Copp ! I like it ! I will use that on my next build. Nickle copper alloy, bet it has a nice appearance too.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pop Chevy View Post
Ni Copp ! I like it ! I will use that on my next build. Nickle copper alloy, bet it has a nice appearance too.
It does have a very nice appearance (not NCRS) and would look good in a resto-mod IMO. Like plain copper, it has the ability to be highly polished or left to oxidize naturally but it won't rust.

Heres a look at the ABS module with the new Ni-Copp lines.
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by Pilot Dan; 09-24-2012 at 08:29 PM. Reason: Added photo
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:11 PM   #10
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Nice work on a nasty job.

How do the Ni-Copp lines work with all the vibration of driving a truck?
Some metals are not bothered by vibration and others will crack.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:20 PM   #11
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Make them out of Tungsten.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westlotorn View Post
Nice work on a nasty job.

How do the Ni-Copp lines work with all the vibration of driving a truck?
Some metals are not bothered by vibration and others will crack.
Apparently, being softer they will give and cracking (like with stainless) is not a problem. Again, I am first testing it and time will tell.
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:07 AM   #13
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I had to change the lines on our '01 2500HD last year. The line to the rears that goes over the top of the fuel tank, rusted though. Replaced all the lines with a S/S set from Inline Tube. BTW this is a great group to work with, I used them for the lines on the '66 vert.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:56 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilot Dan View Post
Apparently, being softer they will give and cracking (like with stainless) is not a problem. Again, I am first testing it and time will tell.
I replaced mine on my 04 Silverado with the nickel/copper last February, so far all is good
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:58 AM   #15
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Quote:
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I replaced mine on my 04 Silverado with the nickel/copper last February, so far all is good
Great to hear that!! Did you have any problems bleeding the brakes??
Did you need to use the scan tool for the ABS to get it done?? . Thanks for the reply.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66BBDriver View Post
I had to change the lines on our '01 2500HD last year. The line to the rears that goes over the top of the fuel tank, rusted though. Replaced all the lines with a S/S set from Inline Tube. BTW this is a great group to work with, I used them for the lines on the '66 vert.
Did you lift the body?? I did not see how I was going to get a prebent
set of lines to snake from under the drivers door all the way around to the right front without bending them all up.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:16 AM   #17
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I can see where those original lines would cause some concern. Very nice job you did with the replacements.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:33 AM   #18
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I changed out the rear diff on my 2002 Tahoe repairing accident damage several years ago and bled the complete brake system.
I did not use an ABS code reader. All worked out fine for me. I have flushed the system once more since then just to keep fresh fluid in the system, again all is well.
I have been taught that most ABS issues are from dirty or old brake fluid so I flush these systems every 4 years or so. I flushed the old fashion way, wife giving me slow pumps on the pedal while bleeding from the rear right to the front left. No high speed pumping of the pedal.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:43 AM   #19
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going to check my 04.5 lly tonight. This seems to be more of an issue for trucks in the salt belt correct?

I do know you can bleed the abs w/out a diagnostic tool by locking the brakes on a gravel road until pedal no longer goes to floor. I usually do them at my boat storage lot. got some funny looks the first time.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:44 AM   #20
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Do you work in a salt mine?

I suspect more than just brake lines rusting in those driving conditions.
LJ
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:44 AM
 
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