leadfoot4

My buddy has a '68 Chevelle, with a 350 small block. It's a weekend driver, in the summer. Recently, the clutch "stopped working", as he described it. He pushes the clutch in, but it doesn't seem to disengage.

Yes, we know the simple answer is to pull it apart, and look for the problem. Situation is, he's currently working 50-55 hours a week, spare time is scarce, and as I said, it's not a DD.

So, assuming the worst, he's thinking of simply getting a clutch kit (pressure plate, t/o bearing, and clutch disc), so he has everything new on hand, and he can just go under the car, pull it apart (hopefully once), and have it working within 3-4 hours.

However, it's been a LONG time since the car has had it's clutch replaced, and he's looking for advice to what deal to buy, as well as what deal won't break the bank. Anybody here have any suggestions, such as brand name to get, Borg&Beck, or diaphragm pressure plate, etc....

Thanks in advance!!

capevettes

Google Carolina Clutch and Performance. Best deals I have ever found on quality clutches. I put a LUK clutch in my 65 Vette. Basically a factory clutch for my car. Couldn't believe how low their prices are for quality clutches.

Kevova

It is possible clutch rod needs adjusted. The old cars used a mechanical linkage that's doesn't self adjust. It fairly easy to check just need to play at clutch fork. Some bell housings allow for disc inspection so someone maybe able to see how worn disc is.

Patsgarage

There is a "Z" bar and linkage that can be adjusted underneath the car. Look on the drivers side of the bellhousing where the clutch fork comes out and follow it back, it might just need to be adjusted.

leadfoot4

Thanks for the suggestions, but we're well aware of that stuff, and we've verified the linkage is in place, and "sort of" functioning. It's just that pressing on the clutch pedal isn't disengaging the clutch disc from the flywheel, for some reason.

divotdug

Before you start buying parts check the clutch fork. I have seen those fail over time from metal fatigue. A small crack causes a bent clutch fork and the clutch no longer works.

If it is a stock 350 I would probably replace it with one of the stock replacement kits from rockauto.com.

leadfoot4

That's a good suggestion.....as I previously mentioned, my buddy is currently BURIED in OT at work, and had only a brief amount of time to take a look underneath the car, so he hasn't taken it apart yet. His feeling is that if he has to pull the transmission out, to get into the bellhousing, he might as well put in a new clutch kit, since he's already over half way there, as long as he doesn't have to spend $400-500, like some of the prices he saw, when taking a very quick look at some of the HP parts suppliers.

capevettes

Did you see my post above? Their prices are great.

68ACADIAN

I would be willing to bet it's the throw-out bearing!! That's just my experience with having so many gear cars.......While you're in there might as well change the clutch and have a look at the pressure plate. Or it could be maybe one or some of the "fingers" have broken on the pressure plate as I would assume it's a Borg & Beck style. Just throwing out possibilities.......

leadfoot4

I did......there are two pages of clutches for Chevelle applications, and I was initially shocked, as the prices started at well over $300, and went up from there. However, on the last page, there was one kit for a little under $300.

Jegs and Summit Racing however, have Zoom kits starting at little over $100.




Yeah, those are all possibilities. He/we just haven't had the time to pull it apart yet. Working 6 days a week, doesn't leave a lot of spare time!!