Help with spot repair on 1980 Corvette Front Bumper
01-30-2008, 09:37 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Help with spot repair on 1980 Corvette Front Bumper
Finished painting my 1980. Had the front bumper loosely attached when
painting. When tightening the bumper I pushed it a bit too hard when
trying to reduce the gap on the side. The paint cracked above
where a cornering light would be mounted.
I am in the process of repainting the area. Removed the paint in the
cracked area.
There are about six coats of DCU 2002 clear before water sanding and buffing on the bumper.
I am concerned that if I apply 4 coats to the repaired area and two
to the rest of the bumper there will be too much clear.
Question:
Would I be better off using DX840 to blend the clear or apply two
coats to the entire bumper? I could try and reduce the clear thickness
by water sanding with 1000 before the clear.
painting. When tightening the bumper I pushed it a bit too hard when
trying to reduce the gap on the side. The paint cracked above
where a cornering light would be mounted.
I am in the process of repainting the area. Removed the paint in the
cracked area.
There are about six coats of DCU 2002 clear before water sanding and buffing on the bumper.
I am concerned that if I apply 4 coats to the repaired area and two
to the rest of the bumper there will be too much clear.
Question:
Would I be better off using DX840 to blend the clear or apply two
coats to the entire bumper? I could try and reduce the clear thickness
by water sanding with 1000 before the clear.
01-31-2008, 10:44 AM
#2
I occasionally use the DX840 but remember it is a blending solvent and does not have much body to it. I generally use it when I have to blend or fade my repair into the adjoining area since I cannot just mask the panel I am spraying. When you have to sand and polish you do not have the required film build to avoid breaking through. I recently used it and faded the blended repair under a door after painting the rear quarter and will be able to just buff that area under the door.
In your situation you can mask the whole bumper cover and do your repair and then just shoot clear on the whole area as a final coat. I would sand some of the clear and make sure your repair is to your satisfaction before clearing. Your biggest hurdle may be making sure your repair is flat (no bullseye). If you sand the existing clear it should be pretty flat so you can probably shoot a medium coat and then one final heavy coat of clear and be OK. Good luck-Jim
In your situation you can mask the whole bumper cover and do your repair and then just shoot clear on the whole area as a final coat. I would sand some of the clear and make sure your repair is to your satisfaction before clearing. Your biggest hurdle may be making sure your repair is flat (no bullseye). If you sand the existing clear it should be pretty flat so you can probably shoot a medium coat and then one final heavy coat of clear and be OK. Good luck-Jim
01-31-2008, 02:19 PM
#4
personally I would use 600. I only move up to those finer grits when I feel they would show thru the buffing procedure or if I was just going to clearcoat or finish coat and not polish it out.-Jim
