hole in floor board
07-17-2010, 08:56 AM
#1
Drifting
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hole in floor board
I just found a hole the size ball in the corner of the floor board driver's side right behind the tire. I want to fix it my self without getting to crazy fix the hole and rattle can it. do I fix it from the outside or inside and with what ? is's a 95 thanks for any help. 
07-17-2010, 05:59 PM
#3
Race Director
I just found a hole the size ball in the corner of the floor board driver's side right behind the tire. I want to fix it my self without getting to crazy fix the hole and rattle can it. do I fix it from the outside or inside and with what ? is's a 95 thanks for any help.
"DUB"
07-17-2010, 06:05 PM
#4
Race Director
It took me some time....but I got here. Was at the shop all day....working.
Just make sure that you prep further out from the hole...about 2 inches....if possible so you can overlap the fiberglass and make sure that this repair is strong. Apply masking tape on the underside so it will support the resin and fiberglass mix. make sure that you taper the inside hole area...so you do not have a ledge or step that will make it hard for the resin and fibergass to form to...without creating an air pocket scenario around the outer edges on the hole.
"DUB"
Just make sure that you prep further out from the hole...about 2 inches....if possible so you can overlap the fiberglass and make sure that this repair is strong. Apply masking tape on the underside so it will support the resin and fiberglass mix. make sure that you taper the inside hole area...so you do not have a ledge or step that will make it hard for the resin and fibergass to form to...without creating an air pocket scenario around the outer edges on the hole.
"DUB"
07-17-2010, 09:58 PM
#5
Drifting
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It took me some time....but I got here. Was at the shop all day....working.
Just make sure that you prep further out from the hole...about 2 inches....if possible so you can overlap the fiberglass and make sure that this repair is strong. Apply masking tape on the underside so it will support the resin and fiberglass mix. make sure that you taper the inside hole area...so you do not have a ledge or step that will make it hard for the resin and fibergass to form to...without creating an air pocket scenario around the outer edges on the hole.
"DUB"
Just make sure that you prep further out from the hole...about 2 inches....if possible so you can overlap the fiberglass and make sure that this repair is strong. Apply masking tape on the underside so it will support the resin and fiberglass mix. make sure that you taper the inside hole area...so you do not have a ledge or step that will make it hard for the resin and fibergass to form to...without creating an air pocket scenario around the outer edges on the hole.
"DUB"
07-18-2010, 08:48 AM
#6
Race Director
07-31-2015, 06:05 PM
#7
Advanced
I have the same issue same location, passenger side floorboard in the front right corner. I think the damage was caused by careless lift arm placement, since the hole is close to the jacking location behind the front right wheel. There is a metal piece that is attached to the fiberglass that is now bent out of place opening the gap. That being said is the recommended repair still to do it from the interior? Seems like something needs to be done on the undercarriage too. Does anything (fiberglass resin?) stick to undercarriage coating? (I'll try to get a picture)
07-31-2015, 06:47 PM
#8
Race Director
I have the same issue same location, passenger side floorboard in the front right corner. I think the damage was caused by careless lift arm placement, since the hole is close to the jacking location behind the front right wheel. There is a metal piece that is attached to the fiberglass that is now bent out of place opening the gap. That being said is the recommended repair still to do it from the interior? Seems like something needs to be done on the undercarriage too. Does anything (fiberglass resin?) stick to undercarriage coating? (I'll try to get a picture)
Also..I can only assume that you are referring to a 1984-1996...due to the piece of metal that is riveted to the SMC floorpan/firewall section.
Fiberglass resin will NOT stick to undercarrige coating.
DUB
08-02-2015, 05:57 PM
#10
Race Director
I want to help...but you really need to take photos so I can see what you can see when you look at his damage. Just one angle is not doing much...unless you want a half-@ss response from me. I can see damage....but not enough. I really need to see it...just like if you car where in my shop....I would raise it up...slide under the car and look at it real good.
DUB
DUB
08-06-2015, 07:46 PM
#11
Advanced
I want to help...but you really need to take photos so I can see what you can see when you look at his damage. Just one angle is not doing much...unless you want a half-@ss response from me. I can see damage....but not enough. I really need to see it...just like if you car where in my shop....I would raise it up...slide under the car and look at it real good.
DUB
DUB
Looking from the passenger side toward the rear, drivers side.
looking from front to back.
closer up, front to back
Looking from the passenger side toward the drivers side, straight on.
looking straight up
08-07-2015, 05:24 PM
#12
Race Director
OK...now I can see it.
If your car were in my shop. The carpet would be removed so I could do some laminating on the inside.
Not being there to feel the area for tension when trying to put things back into position. IF it can not easily put back into place...then the steel plate needs to be removed which may also require heat to soften and release the adhesive that I believe ( if my memory serve me correctly) that GM used in conjunction with the rivets to hold that curved steel plate in place.
Once the plate is off ...then it will depend on how many steps it will take to bond the panel in position so it can be laminated. It is hard to EXACTLY tell you what to do and when to do it....BUT...I usually use an adhesive ..such a Vette Panel Adhesive to hold the panels so I then can prep it again and laminate it together. I am not plastering the VPA in the repair...I am only using it to hold small areas of where the panels need it to I can laminate it. Once all of the lamination's are completed on the inside. I then use the VPA to fix the exterior.....and this also depends on how well the lamination process went and how well the panels going back up to each other.
Then it is drill the holes and use a 2 part adhesive and make sure the steel plate fits correctly and pop rivet it back in with the adhesive also.
KEEP IN MIND...NOTHING will stick to a dirty, stained, oily surface....so having it CLEAN and DRY is important. If you don't.....then do not expect anything to stick.
DUB
If your car were in my shop. The carpet would be removed so I could do some laminating on the inside.
Not being there to feel the area for tension when trying to put things back into position. IF it can not easily put back into place...then the steel plate needs to be removed which may also require heat to soften and release the adhesive that I believe ( if my memory serve me correctly) that GM used in conjunction with the rivets to hold that curved steel plate in place.
Once the plate is off ...then it will depend on how many steps it will take to bond the panel in position so it can be laminated. It is hard to EXACTLY tell you what to do and when to do it....BUT...I usually use an adhesive ..such a Vette Panel Adhesive to hold the panels so I then can prep it again and laminate it together. I am not plastering the VPA in the repair...I am only using it to hold small areas of where the panels need it to I can laminate it. Once all of the lamination's are completed on the inside. I then use the VPA to fix the exterior.....and this also depends on how well the lamination process went and how well the panels going back up to each other.
Then it is drill the holes and use a 2 part adhesive and make sure the steel plate fits correctly and pop rivet it back in with the adhesive also.
KEEP IN MIND...NOTHING will stick to a dirty, stained, oily surface....so having it CLEAN and DRY is important. If you don't.....then do not expect anything to stick.
DUB
08-07-2015, 05:46 PM
#13
Advanced
OK...now I can see it.
If your car were in my shop. The carpet would be removed so I could do some laminating on the inside.
Not being there to feel the area for tension when trying to put things back into position. IF it can not easily put back into place...then the steel plate needs to be removed which may also require heat to soften and release the adhesive that I believe ( if my memory serve me correctly) that GM used in conjunction with the rivets to hold that curved steel plate in place.
Once the plate is off ...then it will depend on how many steps it will take to bond the panel in position so it can be laminated. It is hard to EXACTLY tell you what to do and when to do it....BUT...I usually use an adhesive ..such a Vette Panel Adhesive to hold the panels so I then can prep it again and laminate it together. I am not plastering the VPA in the repair...I am only using it to hold small areas of where the panels need it to I can laminate it. Once all of the lamination's are completed on the inside. I then use the VPA to fix the exterior.....and this also depends on how well the lamination process went and how well the panels going back up to each other.
Then it is drill the holes and use a 2 part adhesive and make sure the steel plate fits correctly and pop rivet it back in with the adhesive also.
KEEP IN MIND...NOTHING will stick to a dirty, stained, oily surface....so having it CLEAN and DRY is important. If you don't.....then do not expect anything to stick.
DUB
If your car were in my shop. The carpet would be removed so I could do some laminating on the inside.
Not being there to feel the area for tension when trying to put things back into position. IF it can not easily put back into place...then the steel plate needs to be removed which may also require heat to soften and release the adhesive that I believe ( if my memory serve me correctly) that GM used in conjunction with the rivets to hold that curved steel plate in place.
Once the plate is off ...then it will depend on how many steps it will take to bond the panel in position so it can be laminated. It is hard to EXACTLY tell you what to do and when to do it....BUT...I usually use an adhesive ..such a Vette Panel Adhesive to hold the panels so I then can prep it again and laminate it together. I am not plastering the VPA in the repair...I am only using it to hold small areas of where the panels need it to I can laminate it. Once all of the lamination's are completed on the inside. I then use the VPA to fix the exterior.....and this also depends on how well the lamination process went and how well the panels going back up to each other.
Then it is drill the holes and use a 2 part adhesive and make sure the steel plate fits correctly and pop rivet it back in with the adhesive also.
KEEP IN MIND...NOTHING will stick to a dirty, stained, oily surface....so having it CLEAN and DRY is important. If you don't.....then do not expect anything to stick.
DUB
08-07-2015, 06:06 PM
#14
Race Director
In scenarios like this....where I do not want undercoating being liquefied and get into my fibers...I will get off what I can and then grind it...but that also can cause the undercoating to smear and clog the sanding disc. You will have to find what will work.
DUB
