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I mix the base (color) and clear together with a toothpick tip dab of catalyst hardener and apply into the cleaned out hole (cleaned with reducer and dried) as a bead. The clear also helps the repair last longer against the elements. If it doesn't fill, then I keep applying within 1/2 hour intervals (for PPG).
I usually let it set a day or two so it doesn't get too hard to work, then scrape with a single edged razor blade until flat. Afterwards, I use 1000/1500/2000 and lightly sand until uber smooth, then rub by hand with #1 rubbing compound. The repair completely disappears and blends because it's minimal intrusion.
The razor blade: it must be new so the paint will shave off. Hold it 90 degrees to the repair and level enough so the ends don't dig into the surrounding paint. If you use a light touch, you'll get used to the "feel" of shaving the paint down. Remember, the longer you wait, the harder the paint you add will become. Finding the sweet spot is the key to knocking down the excess paint.
I've been testing methodology on an older car. The idea of using Frog tape creates a divot if the chip is too large since the added height of the tape causes the sand paper to curve on the repair.
I have played with a spot about 1/2 the size of a nickel and it seems difficult to get it smooth on the repair paint, so I like the idea of using a razor blade, which I'll try next.
What you never want to do is get into the good paint with sandpaper. Even 2000 leaves scratches where you could go through trying to buff it out.
Since then I have found that using pieces of a plastic bag under the corners of the razor blade keep it from scratching the paint around the repair. The most difficult thing is when finishing it is not to use too coarse a grade of sandpaper. After using the razor blade I've settled on using 4000 wet. The challenge is that the repair paint is much softer than the original so when you buff it, the repair paint will still create a concave repair if you are not careful. I suggest that you find another car to practice on before you do the Vette.
Got a chip about 1/8" diameter or a bit less on the first 6" of the hood on my Blade Silver 2018 ZO6, only 600 miles on the car. Most people don't even notice it, but to me it's like a big zit on your cheek when you're 16, I know it's there and I just want it gone. It's small and I don't really want to pay a shop $2,000 to repaint the whole hood for fears that it wouldn't match. Is this something I could do and make it not noticeable, or should I just bite the bullet? Either way, the chip's gotta go.
I would take it to a body/detail shop and ask them what they can do. I've seen some pretty nasty stone chips come out really well.
I'm kinda thinking that way myself, nobody else even notices it but it's driving me nuts. I know a guy who is pretty good, I think I'll stop in and let him take a look at it, see what he says.
Got a chip about 1/8" diameter or a bit less on the first 6" of the hood on my Blade Silver 2018 ZO6, only 600 miles on the car. Most people don't even notice it, but to me it's like a big zit on your cheek when you're 16, I know it's there and I just want it gone. It's small and I don't really want to pay a shop $2,000 to repaint the whole hood for fears that it wouldn't match. Is this something I could do and make it not noticeable, or should I just bite the bullet? Either way, the chip's gotta go.
I don't think this process would work out to well with your silver paint being a metallic paint. And I totally understand the zit - I felt the same way when I started getting the chips on my 76.
Good luck in getting that ZIT outta here!
John
Last edited by Go Vette Go; 05-15-2018 at 03:35 PM.
I don't think this process would work out to well with your silver paint being a metallic paint. And I totally understand the zit - I felt the same way when I started getting the chips on my 76.
Good luck in getting that ZIT outta here!
John
I'll get it done, I want it perfect so I think I'll have a pro do it. Sad part is that my previous Grand Sport didn't have a mark on it anywhere, and with less than 600 miles I get this, and because it's a light color, it shows. Because of the color, it's probably the best idea to have a pro to be sure the color matches perfectly.
Having a professional do it is the best route to take as you know.
And I know that t should not cost $2000 to paint this hood....not even close to it.
Not knowing exactly where the chip is on the hood...in relation to an adjacent panel...the hood can be blended all by itself and you should not be able to tell.
IF the chip is every close to a gap where the hood meets with an adjacent panel..THAT can be something entirely different all together.
The repairs times here are for a 2001 Corvette hood and your hood is not that much different in regard to surface area.
Paint time on the hood is 3.1 hours.
If they take the hood off and put it back on..that is 1.2 hours.
Clearcoating is roughly 1.2 hours. because you multiply .4 hours to the hourly time of painting the hood itself. SO..0.4 X 3.1=1.24
Tint the color if needed ...maybe an hour or two to shoot a test panel and verify that the color can be used as a 'blendable color 'that will be determined.
Paint and materials is roughly $30 per paint hour. so...3.1 + 1.2 = 4.3 4.3 X 30=129 So it depends on what the rete they charge for materials is in your area.
Hazardous waste removal may be about $8.
So..3.1 + 1.2 + 1.2 =5.5 hours that they should charge you for. APPROXIMATELY
I did not figure in any repair tiem and what they will cahge oyu for that.
5.5 hours at the current rate in your area. Plus the $129 and $8 for materials and hazardous waste removal
You do the math.
So this is why I can not see how it could cost you $2000....which I am sure you were just throwing that number out there.
Having a professional do it is the best route to take as you know.
And I know that t should not cost $2000 to paint this hood....not even close to it.
Not knowing exactly where the chip is on the hood...in relation to an adjacent panel...the hood can be blended all by itself and you should not be able to tell.
IF the chip is every close to a gap where the hood meets with an adjacent panel..THAT can be something entirely different all together.
The repairs times here are for a 2001 Corvette hood and your hood is not that much different in regard to surface area.
Paint time on the hood is 3.1 hours.
If they take the hood off and put it back on..that is 1.2 hours.
Clearcoating is roughly 1.2 hours. because you multiply .4 hours to the hourly time of painting the hood itself. SO..0.4 X 3.1=1.24
Tint the color if needed ...maybe an hour or two to shoot a test panel and verify that the color can be used as a 'blendable color 'that will be determined.
Paint and materials is roughly $30 per paint hour. so...3.1 + 1.2 = 4.3 4.3 X 30=129 So it depends on what the rete they charge for materials is in your area.
Hazardous waste removal may be about $8.
So..3.1 + 1.2 + 1.2 =5.5 hours that they should charge you for. APPROXIMATELY
I did not figure in any repair tiem and what they will cahge oyu for that.
5.5 hours at the current rate in your area. Plus the $129 and $8 for materials and hazardous waste removal
You do the math.
So this is why I can not see how it could cost you $2000....which I am sure you were just throwing that number out there.
DUB
I was just throwing the $2,000 out there, really no idea what it "should" cost. The chip is on the hood, about 6" to the right of center and about 1 3/4" from the lead edge of the hood and it's about 1/8" in diameter. Not really noticeable, but I know it's there, and either way it needs to be corrected. The thing I'm most concerned about is paint match whether it's a repair of just the chip itself, or a repaint of the hood or a section of the hood. The thing that pisses me of the most is that my previous Grand Sport had 12,000 miles on it with no protective film applied and did not have a mark on it anywhere, and I get 600 miles on a new ZO6 and I get a chip. Like they say, poop occurs.
I kinda knew you were just throwing out the '$2000' as a 'guess-timate'. but I figured ...what the heck...give you some times and figures anyway.
With it being 1 3/4" from the edge. Which edge? The edge of the fender or the front bumper or by the headlight housing? It does make a difference.
Reason being. I do not care if the car is new. There is still a high possibility that there may be a 'variant' on that color your car was sprayed.
And if you are not aware of what a 'variant' is in the pant and body industry. It is the color that was shot on the car that does NOT perfectly match the PRIME color that was chosen for the car due to numerous variables.
Because not every car your color what shot out of the batch of paint of that color. And...if that color is used on other GM vehicles in different area of the country...there is no way that every time that color is shot...it is perfect...hence...a 'variant'.
Now obviously I can tell this is bothering you due to you want your Corvette perfect in regards to paint. But with it now having this spot in it. It is you choice on what to do.
knowing that it is a metallic/pearl color. It will be a slight challenge in order to get the color to match IF you want to carefully go in and touch this area up and apply some clear on it.
Honestly...my opinion does not mean jack squat here...but from a professional point of view. I would touch it up the very best and live with it...only because...over the years. I have repaired areas much like this for customers much like yourself and in a month or two they come back with another chip. SO...the process repeats itself until it gets to the point that the excessive paint on the panel is too great and I have to strip it off or sand it all back down and start all over....which means I need to get into all of the adjacent panels and then it starts all over again.
I kinda knew you were just throwing out the '$2000' as a 'guess-timate'. but I figured ...what the heck...give you some times and figures anyway.
With it being 1 3/4" from the edge. Which edge? The edge of the fender or the front bumper or by the headlight housing? It does make a difference.
Reason being. I do not care if the car is new. There is still a high possibility that there may be a 'variant' on that color your car was sprayed.
And if you are not aware of what a 'variant' is in the pant and body industry. It is the color that was shot on the car that does NOT perfectly match the PRIME color that was chosen for the car due to numerous variables.
Because not every car your color what shot out of the batch of paint of that color. And...if that color is used on other GM vehicles in different area of the country...there is no way that every time that color is shot...it is perfect...hence...a 'variant'.
Now obviously I can tell this is bothering you due to you want your Corvette perfect in regards to paint. But with it now having this spot in it. It is you choice on what to do.
knowing that it is a metallic/pearl color. It will be a slight challenge in order to get the color to match IF you want to carefully go in and touch this area up and apply some clear on it.
Honestly...my opinion does not mean jack squat here...but from a professional point of view. I would touch it up the very best and live with it...only because...over the years. I have repaired areas much like this for customers much like yourself and in a month or two they come back with another chip. SO...the process repeats itself until it gets to the point that the excessive paint on the panel is too great and I have to strip it off or sand it all back down and start all over....which means I need to get into all of the adjacent panels and then it starts all over again.
DUB
I'm coming around to the touch-up option, if the car was black, white, yellow or maybe solid red, I'd be more inclined to have it blended in, but like you said, a metallic color is a different animal altogether, and the thought of not matching in a larger area concerns me. I'm not a huge fan of the clear protective wraps, but I may end up doing at least parts of the car, as I plan on doing some track time with it, but I think the chip repair is looking like the better option at this point. The chip is on the front edge of the hood, about 6" right of center, 1 3/4" back from where hood meets bumper, the problem with a light metallic color like my Blade Silver is that you see EVERY little chip. I'm hoping I don't get any more, but I won't bet on having that kind of luck, especially at 150mph plus on the track. Looks like I'll be taking your advice and doing just the chip, it was good having some feedback from a professional, I appreciate your input and advice. I'm probably being a bit **** about it, but it just annoys me to see a chip on my brand new $100,000 toy. I'll get over it!!
I know you can do as you wish. But if you are going to take it out on the track. I feel you fixing this small chip is waste of time and money.
Because the odds are not stacked in your favor that you will not get another ..and another and another.
DUB
You're probably right, but I just can't leave it, even though most don't even notice, but I do think I'll go with the chip repair rather than the repaint. The upside of that is that it's looking more and more that I won't be doing much track time this summer, if any at all. Both my parents recently passed away, my mother in December and my dad in January, they weren't far from you, in Winston-Salem NC. Since December we've made 9 flights down there to deal with their affairs, with another scheduled for the first week of June, and I will say that NC has some strange rules regarding estates. That and the fact that we are thinking of moving in the not too distant future, and NC is on our list, we recently looked at an area near Charlotte, Trilogy at Lake Norman, so new build home in the works, just need to decide where, I'm easy to please, but my wife is more choosy, so time will tell. Who knows, the next track event I do may be Charlotte instead of Watkins Glen, stranger things have happened. I will also look into the possibility of some sort of clear protective film in the most vulnerable areas, but I'm not totally sold on that just yet. If I can find a really good film that is pretty much undetectable I may do that on the front end, mirrors and in front of the rear wheels.
I have a customer with a Donneybrook green 1970 that has the film on it and it is VERY HARD to see it on the car. For whatever that is worth.
DUB
I've seen some where the film is barely noticeable, but I've also seen some where it really sticks out. I'm wondering if maybe the quality of the film and/or proficiency of the installer dictates whether it's visible or not? I don't really know much about it, is it static cling, adhesive or shrink where a heat gun is used, and is it easily removed if needed? As much as I've resisted the film. it looks like that's not such a bad idea after all. As of right now, I'm leaning towards just the chip touch-up and the film, good idea or bad?
I have emailed this procedure to many forum users in the past - didn't notice the Paint section before! DOH Posting the instructions here will make it easier for my forum friends.
I have this in Word.doc format if you'd like. Just PM your email address & I will send it out.
I will add pictures the next time repair a paint chip on my 76.
Chip Repair Procedures
This process works well on solid color cars – I can't guarantee how it will work on metallic paints.
Read the whole process before you start, and good luck.
You will need the following items before you start repairing those unsightly chips that mar the beauty of your "baby":
1. PATIENCE – THIS IS NOT A 10 MINUTE PROCESS!
2. Touch up paint - I had mine scoped at a local auto paint wholesaler that matched perfectly.
3. 2000 and 2500 grit wet/dry sandpaper
4. Round toothpicks
5. Small hard rubber backing block - 1" x 2" (I had several of these from when I installed solariums)
6. "Nick-Sander" spot sanding pen. Available at Amazon here CLICK HERE http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l302/GovetteGo/NickSander.gif"]
7. A small container - yogurt or butter cup works fine/
8. 3M Rubbing Compound Fine Cut
One thing I emphasize to friends who want to repair their paint chips is PATIENCE!!! This is not a job you can do in one sitting, nor would you want to do your entire car if you have many chips. Start with no more than six.
I have found it easier to make a diagram of the spots I am working on. Once you start filling in the chip - it disappears! One friend used masking tape to mark the spots he was repairing.
Here are 2 paint chips I "created" when I didn't safely secure my driveshaft. DOH!!
Gathered up my Nick Sander, paint and toothpicks
Procedures:
1. Thoroughly clean each chip with the nick-sander to remove wax, cleaners and oxidation. This will generally mar a spot larger than the initial chip but don't worry; it will not harm the finished product.
2. Clean off any excess dust.
3. Shake your paint thoroughly and open the can. Using the paint can lid, dip one end of a round toothpick into the paint on the lid.
Spread a thin layer of paint into the chip with the toothpick.
The advantage of using the toothpick is that it allows you to push the paint into all the edges.
Here is the result of filling one paint chip
Do not attempt to fill the chip in one shot. I generally allow a MINIMUM of 7 days between coats. I have found it best to make 4 to 5 thin applications, building the paint above the existing paint finish. If you are using 2 part paint, do not add the catalyst! The paint will air dry in a couple days
4. Use the "fingernail test" to make sure the paint has hardened. When you think you are ready to start sanding, press a fingernail into the paint – if there is no indentation from your nail, proceed to the next step.
5. Once the paint is built up sufficiently, it is time to break out the sandpaper (the scary part!!). Cut the 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper into strips the width of the block. Wrap the paper around the block and dunk it into water. Using a circular motion with minimum pressure (DO NOT USE STRAIGHT BACK AND FORTH MOTION - THIS WILL LEAVE SCRATCHES), sand the bump down wetting the paper frequently. If the paper "clogs" up, replace it, the buildup will scratch your surface. Examine the surface periodically to see how much is left. When you are close to the original surface, replace the 2000 grit with the 2500 grit. Repeat the sanding/wetting process until you have a flat, smooth surface.
6. Wet cotton cloth and apply a small amount of 3M Rubbing Compound FINE CUT to the cloth. Rub the repair spot in a circular motion, checking the surface frequently. This procedure will take the "dull" look out of the repaired paint.
7. At this stage, I polish the area and apply a coat of wax.
I have used this method and have taught others with great success. I have a friend who was absolutely scared to death to use the nick-sander on his '89 Vette. After I showed him how to do one chip (one of dozens - the C4's seem to get more hood chips than the C3's) he overcame his fear and today, you would be hard pressed to find a chip.
The key to success is the toothpicks and patience. Count on it taking 3 - 4 weeks to do it right. After all, your car is worth it! You can’t do it in a day or a week!
Great guidance!!! could you email this to me so I can print and keep in the garage? 1spacover@comcast.net thanks, Monte
I just posted this on an open thread - thought i'd add it to a sticky -
I've had my best luck using a paint pen. problem with toothpicks, brushes supplied with touch-up paint, paper match sticks, etc., none seem to work (for me) since you can't regulate the amount of paint and paint flow. they all tend to put a blob of paint on the chip cavity. give the paint pen a try, and watch the video.
Loew-Cornell Fine Line Painting Pen (you can source one on fleabay) --
you should be able to get touchup paint from the dealer, or from the paint code, from any specialty supplier. I watched a detail guy demonstrate this at a corvette show about 15 years ago - took me awhile to find the painting pen - had no idea what they were called, or where to look.
I've had my best success with this method.
EDIT: BEFORE ANYONE GETS THEIR PANTIES IN A BUNCH, THE PAINT PEN IS JUST A TOOL FOR APPLYING THE PAINT. IT DOES NOT GUARENTEE RESULTS.
No "Panties in a bunch" here Joe. Old saying, "There's more that one way to skin a cat"!! I am very comfortable with the toothpick method and it has worked well for me for years. Others may find it more comfortable with the paint pen. Whatever works, right? Get R Done!! LOL
01-03-2016, 12:11 PM
Like they say, poop occurs.
I'm coming around to the touch-up option, if the car was black, white, yellow or maybe solid red, I'd be more inclined to have it blended in, but like you said, a metallic color is a different animal altogether, and the thought of not matching in a larger area concerns me. I'm not a huge fan of the clear protective wraps, but I may end up doing at least parts of the car, as I plan on doing some track time with it, but I think the chip repair is looking like the better option at this point. The chip is on the front edge of the hood, about 6" right of center, 1 3/4" back from where hood meets bumper, the problem with a light metallic color like my Blade Silver is that you see EVERY little chip. I'm hoping I don't get any more, but I won't bet on having that kind of luck, especially at 150mph plus on the track. Looks like I'll be taking your advice and doing just the chip, it was good having some feedback from a professional, I appreciate your input and advice. I'm probably being a bit **** about it, but it just annoys me to see a chip on my brand new $100,000 toy.
I'll get over it!!
