Go Vette Go

I have emailed this procedure to many forum users in the past - didn't notice the Paint section before! DOH Posting the instructions here will make it easier for my forum friends.

I have this in Word.doc format if you'd like. Just PM your email address & I will send it out.

I will add pictures the next time repair a paint chip on my 76.

Chip Repair Procedures

This process works well on solid color cars – I can't guarantee how it will work on metallic paints.

Read the whole process before you start, and good luck.

You will need the following items before you start repairing those unsightly chips that mar the beauty of your "baby":

1. PATIENCE – THIS IS NOT A 10 MINUTE PROCESS!
2. Touch up paint - I had mine scoped at a local auto paint wholesaler that matched perfectly.
3. 2000 and 2500 grit wet/dry sandpaper
4. Round toothpicks
5. Small hard rubber backing block - 1" x 2" (I had several of these from when I installed solariums)
6. "Nick-Sander" spot sanding pen. Available at Amazon here
7. A small container - yogurt or butter cup works fine/
8. 3M Rubbing Compound Fine Cut

One thing I emphasize to friends who want to repair their paint chips is PATIENCE!!! This is not a job you can do in one sitting, nor would you want to do your entire car if you have many chips. Start with no more than six.

I have found it easier to make a diagram of the spots I am working on. Once you start filling in the chip - it disappears! One friend used masking tape to mark the spots he was repairing.

Here are 2 paint chips I "created" when I didn't safely secure my driveshaft. DOH!!





Gathered up my Nick Sander, paint and toothpicks









Procedures:
1. Thoroughly clean each chip with the nick-sander to remove wax, cleaners and oxidation. This will generally mar a spot larger than the initial chip but don't worry; it will not harm the finished product.





2. Clean off any excess dust.





3. Shake your paint thoroughly and open the can. Using the paint can lid, dip one end of a round toothpick into the paint on the lid.





Spread a thin layer of paint into the chip with the toothpick.





The advantage of using the toothpick is that it allows you to push the paint into all the edges.

Here is the result of filling one paint chip





Do not attempt to fill the chip in one shot. I generally allow a MINIMUM of 7 days between coats. I have found it best to make 4 to 5 thin applications, building the paint above the existing paint finish. If you are using 2 part paint, do not add the catalyst! The paint will air dry in a couple days

4. Use the "fingernail test" to make sure the paint has hardened. When you think you are ready to start sanding, press a fingernail into the paint – if there is no indentation from your nail, proceed to the next step.

5. Once the paint is built up sufficiently, it is time to break out the sandpaper (the scary part!!). Cut the 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper into strips the width of the block. Wrap the paper around the block and dunk it into water. Using a circular motion with minimum pressure (DO NOT USE STRAIGHT BACK AND FORTH MOTION - THIS WILL LEAVE SCRATCHES), sand the bump down wetting the paper frequently. If the paper "clogs" up, replace it, the buildup will scratch your surface. Examine the surface periodically to see how much is left. When you are close to the original surface, replace the 2000 grit with the 2500 grit. Repeat the sanding/wetting process until you have a flat, smooth surface.

6. Wet cotton cloth and apply a small amount of 3M Rubbing Compound FINE CUT to the cloth. Rub the repair spot in a circular motion, checking the surface frequently. This procedure will take the "dull" look out of the repaired paint.
7. At this stage, I polish the area and apply a coat of wax.

I have used this method and have taught others with great success. I have a friend who was absolutely scared to death to use the nick-sander on his '89 Vette. After I showed him how to do one chip (one of dozens - the C4's seem to get more hood chips than the C3's) he overcame his fear and today, you would be hard pressed to find a chip.

The key to success is the toothpicks and patience. Count on it taking 3 - 4 weeks to do it right. After all, your car is worth it! You can’t do it in a day or a week!

bick333

i went to local Pep Boys in VA and was told they did not know what a "Nick sander" was and did not have.
Possibly part number from someone?
thanks,

Go Vette Go

Send me your email address and I will send a picture of exactly what it looks like. I purchased my Nick Sander over 10 years ago but Pep boys has changed a ton in those years - more a Tuner oriented operation.

Also, I will try to track down who sells them - it will make the job not only easier but will save a ton of time too.

John

Go Vette Go

Picture of Nick Sander added to original post.

bigjohn19136

what i have found is a glass fiber pen . you can get it at radio shack with a refill 6.99

Go Vette Go

That sounds like it John. It has a bunch of fiber bristles. Good to know RS has them.

GatewayShepherd

I found an additional trick that worked very well for staight line scratches. I had a few of these from rocks and debris on the lower rocker pannel. Instead of using the nick sander I used a very small (very very fine) hobby triangular shaped file that comes to a sharp point. I drug it along the scratch and the file teeth opened up and cleaned the scratch out. It gave a fresh surface for the paint to adhere to and was easier then using the pen.

Go Vette Go

I have had no luck finding a source for the"Nick-Sander" but I found this "Sanding Brush" on Amazon. CLICK HERE for the sanding brush.

John

bigjohn19136

harbor freight also has them check you local hobby shop someone also told me that wallmart has them also

Go Vette Go

Hi John. Thanks for that info. I have a "Nick Sander" but others who have read this thread can not find them. Now, with our information above, everyone will have success in getting one.

See you next week at the Cavalcade!

John

Spraygun

Great post Go vette, good info.
If I may, I would suggest this, purchase an acrylic urethane for solid colors and metallics ( if available ) and base and some clear for what's not available in single stage. If your using a paint that normally needs a hardner for touch up, or a paint that doesn't require one, you can speed up the process and have a more durable finished product by using a 2k product. For solid colors check the formula that the paint should be spray with and remove any reducer from the mix. You just need to get a rough idea on how much hardner to use (more hardner doesn't make it dry faster or harder) Mix your touch up material as stated and you'll be able to use more paint per application and it will cure much quicker.
For base clear application you can mix up some 2k clear and then add 30% to 50% base mix and apply. The clear gives durability and allows the metallics to flow a bit.

htown

How does the sand paper not scratch your finish if you sand down the touch up paint until its a flat surface?

Go Vette Go

Use 1500 grit, 2000 grit and 2500 grit wet dry paper. It's almost as smooth as a babies bottom! It slowly reduces the build up to the point where you apply the fine cut rubbing compound

I have to add pictures to this post. I do have a couple chips in the paint so this is a good opportunity to show how it is done.

John

blue_74

Please do add the pictures, we'd love to see them!

Go Vette Go

Pictures will be coming shortly thanks to a not so well secured driveshaft! Luckily it just chipped the paint in 2 small spots.

wonder who put that driveshaft there anyway>> DOH!!!

Go Vette Go

FINALLY - I started fixing the drive shaft nicks in my paint (and 10 others). I inserted a few pictures of the beginning process.

PM me if you have any questions.

John

Talon2006

Would you be able to add pictures of the sanding process?

I have a ton of small chips on my car that I can do this on!

Any advice how you would go about fixing a larger chip? Say slightly larger then a silver dollar? Would this same method work?

DUB

The color of you car makes a big difference. Metallic/pearl colors are really hard to touch up and NOT make noticeable.

When you get to the size of silver dollar...it needs to be shot with a gun. BUT this also depends on what you can live with...the color of the car...where this huge chip is located, etc.

Showing pictures of the sanding process is 'kinda pointless'. Photos will not show the process. Because it also has a lot to do with how much paint you put in the chip and if you are planning on covering it with a clear. Where you did the 'touch-up'...such as in a reverse curve (such as the inside of a blown up balloon), outer curve or roll (the outside of a blown up balloon), on an edge or a flat surface. each surface will take bit more finesse to make sure that the blob of paint is flattened out and can be buffed/polished.

I will write this. If you are planning on touching up you car....make sure the chips are clean and free of all dirt, wax and any other crap. AND when you go an sand...try at all costs NOT to sand on the factory paint ( if it still is factory)...because the clearcoat is really thin and too much sanding and polishing can cause for break through and then you have another problem.

DUB

Scooter94

I'd like to continue this thread if possible.
I'm just starting on chip repair. My color is the Black Rose of 1994. So, it's very dark. I ordered and received the little bottles of base and clear coat from AutomotiveTouchup. My most pressing question is how to use both bottles. Reading previous messages, it appears that possibly the best way is to mix them ~50/50 then apply sand and polish. Since it is difficult at best to partially fill a nick then apply clear without some distortion, I am wondering if anyone has had any further experience or suggestions along this line? Suggestions on what to use to make sure wax is out of the picture? I've heard from the Zanio polish website that Dawn dishwater soap works.

I'm also going to try frog tape close around the chip to protect the paint around it.

redvtt

I mix the base (color) and clear together with a toothpick tip dab of catalyst hardener and apply into the cleaned out hole (cleaned with reducer and dried) as a bead. The clear also helps the repair last longer against the elements. If it doesn't fill, then I keep applying within 1/2 hour intervals (for PPG).

I usually let it set a day or two so it doesn't get too hard to work, then scrape with a single edged razor blade until flat. Afterwards, I use 1000/1500/2000 and lightly sand until uber smooth, then rub by hand with #1 rubbing compound. The repair completely disappears and blends because it's minimal intrusion.

The razor blade: it must be new so the paint will shave off. Hold it 90 degrees to the repair and level enough so the ends don't dig into the surrounding paint. If you use a light touch, you'll get used to the "feel" of shaving the paint down. Remember, the longer you wait, the harder the paint you add will become. Finding the sweet spot is the key to knocking down the excess paint.