black77

i have a black 1977 vette that i recently removed the luggage rack .i filled the holes ( tapperedback ) with fiberglass cloth .worked it ( no bondo or puty ) primed it with omni urethan primer , based with deltron , ppg clear coat ,. buffed it looked like glass pulled it out in the texas sun after about 30 minutes started to see where the holes were about an hour i could see the cloth . when it cooled off its not as noticable . was wondering if i went in & used a smc compatible putty over the fiberglass than reprime block & paint if that would fix the problem ? are what it would take ? thanks for any help

CF6873

You should have used fiberglass mat instead of the cloth. Cloth will show every time on a cosmetic repair. You will probably have to grind it out and start over.

orourke

For what it's worth, before you grind everything back out.

I would wet sand the area's again with 1000,1500,2000 using a firm block till the mapping/read-through is gone,then rebuff. Alternate the sanding direction on each grit you use.

Give it a shot before you consider any major rework.

Marty.

Scott Marzahl

Never use cloth for a repair on the top surface and make sure to skim coat the repair with a dense filler like Evercoat Corvette Bonding Adhesive to prevent telegraphing.

DUB

IN MY OPINION:

Not to be the bearer of bad news...but as like it has been mentioned. The repair will more than likely need to be re-worked. This will require you grinding back into your fiberglass cloth. The use of fiberglass cloth is perfectly fine if it is (as previously mentioned) NOT on an outer surface. Fiberglass cloth can be used on the underside of a panel to provide superior linear strength.

The problem with fiberglass cloth is that it is really hard to get it to soak in 100%. YOU MAY THINK that it is soaked in...and it may look like it is soaked in...but in reality it is often times not. And it is the air in this tightly woven strand of cloth that come back and bite you when it gets hot. Using the vacuum bag method is the only way to make sure that all of the air is out...and is pointless to do so due to another type of fiberglass material can be used without going through the vacuum bag process.

TRUST ME...if you try to do a "short-cut"...the chances are that it will come back and haunt you again. And once you damage the paint and go in for another repair...what the heck...do it again correctly. BUT just be aware...due to all of your layers of spray-able products being so fresh. Do not go in and soak everything down with primer and other products...because the solvents in all of these applied products will attack each layer of your feather-edged repair differently... and can cause a wrinkle of lifting. Going in on a paint that is fresh....takes time and patience...and I am only saying this is because I have been there before...and have more marks on my backside than I can count from all of the years of doing this "stuff". I have a "trade secret" to trying to keep the "ring-out" from coming back due to you breaking through the layers of clear, base, sealer, and primer. It is time consuming and has worked for me over the years. AND if you stop and think about it ...you can figure it out also and realize it makes complete sense. The answer to my "trade secret" is inside the text in this paragraph.

"DUB"

black77

ok i feel like a idiot i got the 2 confused i did use mat & not cloth . sorry ?>?>> so with that said maybe i should have used sealer & better primer ? now what would be the best way to repair my problem ??? would a repaint fix it ? or should i put something else over the fiberglass repair like a smc compatable bondo / putty ??? thanks for your help im new with corvettes

Scott Marzahl

I would slightly dish out the repaired areas and cover with Evercoat 870 filler and then apply your primer but don't use heavy wet coats.

DUB

...and at least have the 870 be no thinner than the thickness of a wood matchstick....where it covers your hand laid fiberglass.

"DUB"