Painting Plastic
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Painting Plastic
Have some questions about painting plastic. I'm painting some parts inside my C5 ...console bezel and door sills. I sanded them smooth with 220. Some questions are, how smooth do I sand them before I paint primer, base and clear? I mean, do I sand them to say 2000 then primer, base and clear? I'm using dupi color spray (primer,base,clear). I really would like it to be durable,cause they get alot of contact.
1. How many coats of primer?
2. Do I sand in between coats? If so, what grit?
3. How many coats of base? Sanding? Grit?
4. How many coats of clear coat? Sanding? Grit?
The finish on the console doesn't have to be super shiny don't want it blinding me I want it tough enough to resist scratches, that is my main concern. Sorry if this is confusing tried to be as clear as possible, just shows how confused and unknowledgeable about proper painting technics Thank you in advance for any help on this subject
1. How many coats of primer?
2. Do I sand in between coats? If so, what grit?
3. How many coats of base? Sanding? Grit?
4. How many coats of clear coat? Sanding? Grit?
The finish on the console doesn't have to be super shiny don't want it blinding me I want it tough enough to resist scratches, that is my main concern. Sorry if this is confusing tried to be as clear as possible, just shows how confused and unknowledgeable about proper painting technics Thank you in advance for any help on this subject
#2
Race Director
Have some questions about painting plastic. I'm painting some parts inside my C5 ...console bezel and door sills. I sanded them smooth with 220. Some questions are, how smooth do I sand them before I paint primer, base and clear? I mean, do I sand them to say 2000 then primer, base and clear? I'm using dupi color spray (primer,base,clear). I really would like it to be durable,cause they get alot of contact.
1. How many coats of primer?
2. Do I sand in between coats? If so, what grit?
3. How many coats of base? Sanding? Grit?
4. How many coats of clear coat? Sanding? Grit?
The finish on the console doesn't have to be super shiny don't want it blinding me I want it tough enough to resist scratches, that is my main concern. Sorry if this is confusing tried to be as clear as possible, just shows how confused and unknowledgeable about proper painting technics Thank you in advance for any help on this subject
1. How many coats of primer?
2. Do I sand in between coats? If so, what grit?
3. How many coats of base? Sanding? Grit?
4. How many coats of clear coat? Sanding? Grit?
The finish on the console doesn't have to be super shiny don't want it blinding me I want it tough enough to resist scratches, that is my main concern. Sorry if this is confusing tried to be as clear as possible, just shows how confused and unknowledgeable about proper painting technics Thank you in advance for any help on this subject
On plastic I would after degreasing and sanding, first use an adhesion promoter like Bulldog. Duplicolor and SEM also have one. If you really want it tough and not too shiny I would visit with your PPG or Dupont Auto Paint supplier and see if they can mix you something in single stage urethane with a little flattening agent in it. BC/CC is another option if they can flatten the clear a little - they may be hesitent to do so. If you don't have a spray gun and compressor pick up one of the Prevail touch up sprayers that works with cartridge compressed air. They are very cheap and work very well for this type work. Also, get some tack cloths and work in a still area to keep dust down. Use a cartridge respirator which are not expensive.
This will cost considerably more than the Duplicolor route but it will come out a lot better and more durable. If you go the Duplicolor route you might try tossing their clear coat and look around for some other semi-gloss clear to use in its place.
I think I would finish sanding with 1000 grit before painting. Some others may have a different idea.
If you use the clear coat you don't want to sand a base color with any mettalic in it or it will come out mottled under the clear. If you get some dust in the base color and have to sand it, follow up with a light, overall dusting coat to provide a uniform color and mettalic appearance. If slightly rough it won't matter as it will be embedded in clear and flow out.
Last edited by DansYellow66; 12-04-2011 at 07:38 AM.
#3
Safety Car
Member Since: Sep 2004
Location: Colo. Spgs. Colo.
Posts: 3,764
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
St. Jude Donor '10-'11
If these interior parts have a 'texture' to them, your going to ruin them using an abrasive on them.
But if they are smooth, most guys use a scotch brite and sanding paste on plastic parts, clean with DX-103 or any alcohol based cleaner, dont use a solvent based cleaner of plastic parts.
You can use a 'dye' for interior parts, if you use base/clear, your going to have to flatten the clear(DCU-2060 mixed with regular clear at the correct ratio's).
But if they are smooth, most guys use a scotch brite and sanding paste on plastic parts, clean with DX-103 or any alcohol based cleaner, dont use a solvent based cleaner of plastic parts.
You can use a 'dye' for interior parts, if you use base/clear, your going to have to flatten the clear(DCU-2060 mixed with regular clear at the correct ratio's).
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
If you use a clear coat it is going to be pretty shiny. About the only way to avoid that is to use a urethane clear coat that has some flattner in it.
On plastic I would after degreasing and sanding, first use an adhesion promoter like Bulldog. Duplicolor and SEM also have one. If you really want it tough and not too shiny I would visit with your PPG or Dupont Auto Paint supplier and see if they can mix you something in single stage urethane with a little flattening agent in it. BC/CC is another option if they can flatten the clear a little - they may be hesitent to do so. If you don't have a spray gun and compressor pick up one of the Prevail touch up sprayers that works with cartridge compressed air. They are very cheap and work very well for this type work. Also, get some tack cloths and work in a still area to keep dust down. Use a cartridge respirator which are not expensive.
This will cost considerably more than the Duplicolor route but it will come out a lot better and more durable. If you go the Duplicolor route you might try tossing their clear coat and look around for some other semi-gloss clear to use in its place.
I think I would finish sanding with 1000 grit before painting. Some others may have a different idea.
If you use the clear coat you don't want to sand a base color with any mettalic in it or it will come out mottled under the clear. If you get some dust in the base color and have to sand it, follow up with a light, overall dusting coat to provide a uniform color and mettalic appearance. If slightly rough it won't matter as it will be embedded in clear and flow out.
On plastic I would after degreasing and sanding, first use an adhesion promoter like Bulldog. Duplicolor and SEM also have one. If you really want it tough and not too shiny I would visit with your PPG or Dupont Auto Paint supplier and see if they can mix you something in single stage urethane with a little flattening agent in it. BC/CC is another option if they can flatten the clear a little - they may be hesitent to do so. If you don't have a spray gun and compressor pick up one of the Prevail touch up sprayers that works with cartridge compressed air. They are very cheap and work very well for this type work. Also, get some tack cloths and work in a still area to keep dust down. Use a cartridge respirator which are not expensive.
This will cost considerably more than the Duplicolor route but it will come out a lot better and more durable. If you go the Duplicolor route you might try tossing their clear coat and look around for some other semi-gloss clear to use in its place.
I think I would finish sanding with 1000 grit before painting. Some others may have a different idea.
If you use the clear coat you don't want to sand a base color with any mettalic in it or it will come out mottled under the clear. If you get some dust in the base color and have to sand it, follow up with a light, overall dusting coat to provide a uniform color and mettalic appearance. If slightly rough it won't matter as it will be embedded in clear and flow out.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
If these interior parts have a 'texture' to them, your going to ruin them using an abrasive on them.
But if they are smooth, most guys use a scotch brite and sanding paste on plastic parts, clean with DX-103 or any alcohol based cleaner, dont use a solvent based cleaner of plastic parts.
You can use a 'dye' for interior parts, if you use base/clear, your going to have to flatten the clear(DCU-2060 mixed with regular clear at the correct ratio's).
But if they are smooth, most guys use a scotch brite and sanding paste on plastic parts, clean with DX-103 or any alcohol based cleaner, dont use a solvent based cleaner of plastic parts.
You can use a 'dye' for interior parts, if you use base/clear, your going to have to flatten the clear(DCU-2060 mixed with regular clear at the correct ratio's).
#6
Race Director
Thank you, I will look into Prevail system. At the moment budget keeps me to dupi color my base is artic white so it doesn't have any metallic in it. So, i can sand in between base coats with 1000 grit? Also, I'll get some other kind of clear with a matte finish. So, if I use mulitpul coats of clear, will it protect the base color from getting minor scratches? Thinking of putting a small piece of cleartastic where my leg would rub the console.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
You might want to step up to 1500 between coats as long as it is not too orange peeled. The clear should help protect the color but it won't be nearly as tough as catalyzed clear. But, with several coats on if you do get a couple scratches in it, you can easily sand them lightly and put another coat of clear on. Check into SEM low luster clear (spray can). It's made for interior plastic and vinyl. A lot of auto parts stores or nearly all auto paint stores have it.
#8
Race Director
If it's a non-metalic color you can lightly sand it. I would use very fine sandpaper like 1500 and maybe a well worn piece of it at that.
#9
Le Mans Master
See my how-to summary post in nthe following thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ting-trim.html
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
thank you Glenn great tips, i want this piece to be kind of dull not glossy I'll be using low luster clear coat....I think I'll put 3 coats of base and clear its artic white...I really appreciate all of the advise here