xztau

Earlier this year I got a 66 coupe. It was repainted with 25 coats of lacquer (Rally Red, no clear coat) back in 1985 (according to the documents, the paint job back then was $7000, not including stripping and body work!). The paint is in pretty good condition, with the car having gained about 10k miles since then. It has some small bubbles, mostly along the base of the rear pillar where it meets the fender, on both sides. There is also some crazing and a couple of spider webs that are difficult to see, but I know they're there (and can easily feel them - they haven't cracked down to the primer, yet).

The paint needs some polishing to get rid of scratches and swirls, but before doing that I want to fix some chips. A 16 oz can of color-matched lacquer prepared in 1988 was provided with the car. When opened, I see that the lower half is filled with a gelatinous ball of pigment that is just covered at the top with solvent. I assume that I can mix in some lacquer thinner to reconsitute it, but what is the best way? Also, the can says that it needs to be strained after thinning; any quick tips on that (and how to judge when it's appropriately thinned)?

Some more questions:

Is there a good web page that describes repairing paint chips in lacquer? I found a couple of vague ones that really don't sufficiently describe the procedure.

I assume that I can't fix the spider webs without stripping and repainting, which I'm in no rush to do. Do I just leave them as-is or is there some way to suppress them? Might they peel up if I run the buffer over them?

Thanks much for any suggestions!

markids77

Stir the paint well using a stir stick and see what kind of reaction you get... if it remains gelatinous as opposed to a thick, well mixed liquid then some thinner may be required. If you need to reduce it use only a quality "slow" virgin grade of thinner and add only enough to make the consistency creamy. I use the torn end of a paper matchstick to dab unreduced paint into well dewaxed chips... you might need more than a single application to fill the void completely. Use a small block and 800 grit wet sandpaper to level the chips followed by 1000 and 1500 grits then polish. Stop sanding when the chip surface is level with the surrounding paint.

Your spider cracks will not explode if buffed, they will simply stay there until you decide to strip and repaint. I hope my info helps you get it looking as good as it can for now!

xztau

Thanks much for the advice, markids77. Now I have a couple of follow-up questions.

I stirred the blob and it mixed with the solvent already in there to form a uniformly-colored liquid, so it looks like it can be used. However, it's about as thick as molasses and isn't too smooth. It'll need thinning and straining. I'll look around the nearest auto paint supply shop to see if they have the slow virgin thinner, though looking online it seems it only comes in gallon sizes at minimum (and I need only a few ounces at most).

How long do I wait between coats and then until sanding?

Thanks again!

markids77

Also try a hobby shop which sells models, and/or radio controlled vehicles. Anyplace which sells airbrushing supplies as well should have small containers of good solvents; and a glass airbrush reservoir bottle would make an excellent mix and storage tank for your touchup material. Reduce only until a drop "hangs" on the tip of the applicator... too runny and you'll make a mess trying to fill the chips.

A few hours between coats at 70 degrees or better, and a week's dry time should get you there. BTW, a single ounce of thinned paint should be adequate... save that can in case you need it for a larger repair!