Epoxy sealer and bc/cc procedure
11-14-2013, 09:51 AM
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Epoxy sealer and bc/cc procedure
I have almost completed finish sanding the K38, with 500 wet, which I applied to my 64. I have to spot prime a few small sand throughs in the k38, and I will be ready to spray a reduced coat of dp50lf epoxy sealer. My question is what to do next. My procedure from there is as follows.
1. Spray the epoxy seal coat, which will be catalyzed with 401 activator, and let flash for an hour or two.
2. After the Epoxy flash time I plan to spray two coats of Deltron DBC basecoat. The color I will be using is a 64 Cadillac color Firemist Blue Metallic.
3. Once the two coats are applied I will let the basecoat dry for a few days and lightly wet sand with 600 grit paper.
4. Once the base is all sanded I will assemble the car, doors, hood, etc. and align all panels.
5. Once all panels are aligned I will re-mask the car and spray two or three more coats of basecoat, followed immediately by four coats of Deltron 4000 clear.
6. Once the clear has hardened a few days I will wet sand with 1500, 2000, and 2500 or 3000, and buff the surface.
Does this procedure sound correct? I am not worried about the time it will take. I just want the best job I can do. Thanks very much for any suggestions.
1. Spray the epoxy seal coat, which will be catalyzed with 401 activator, and let flash for an hour or two.
2. After the Epoxy flash time I plan to spray two coats of Deltron DBC basecoat. The color I will be using is a 64 Cadillac color Firemist Blue Metallic.
3. Once the two coats are applied I will let the basecoat dry for a few days and lightly wet sand with 600 grit paper.
4. Once the base is all sanded I will assemble the car, doors, hood, etc. and align all panels.
5. Once all panels are aligned I will re-mask the car and spray two or three more coats of basecoat, followed immediately by four coats of Deltron 4000 clear.
6. Once the clear has hardened a few days I will wet sand with 1500, 2000, and 2500 or 3000, and buff the surface.
Does this procedure sound correct? I am not worried about the time it will take. I just want the best job I can do. Thanks very much for any suggestions.
11-14-2013, 03:47 PM
#3
When I sprayed the PPG urethane basecoats we always pushed to have everything in clear less than 12-24 hrs.. Cleaned everything with DX330 and tac rags after panel assembly. Watch the tac rag and Dx with any metallic cause you will see the milky way if you drag the tac rag . Once the clear hits it your done. I thought the firemist was a three stage base? I have been out of it for a while what is the 4000 clear like ? Is it the same the older PPG 2000 was with less VoCs? Heck I think I asked you just as many questions Sorry...
Mac
Mac
Last edited by macdabs; 11-14-2013 at 03:50 PM.
11-14-2013, 04:07 PM
#5
11-14-2013, 08:23 PM
#6
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I have almost completed finish sanding the K38, with 500 wet, which I applied to my 64. I have to spot prime a few small sand throughs in the k38, and I will be ready to spray a reduced coat of dp50lf epoxy sealer. My question is what to do next. My procedure from there is as follows.
1. Spray the epoxy seal coat, which will be catalyzed with 401 activator, and let flash for an hour or two.
This is acceptable...as long as the DT reducer is correct for your current spraying temps at that time. Also making sure that you allow the DP epoxy to sit for 30 minutes when you mix it with the 401 before you apply it(which I am sure you know about). I also would be taking into account the temperature of the epoxy primer also. If you think that mixed and reduced epoxy primer that is at 40 degrees shoots the same as epoxy mixed and shot in the heat of the summer...you are mistaken. SHOOT a test panel to verify how it will lay down BEFORE you go in and shoot the car. ASSUME NOTHING!!!!! This will allow you to fine tune and adjust you gun, distance, travel speed, air pressure and any possible additional reduction with the DT reducer.
2. After the Epoxy flash time I plan to spray two coats of Deltron DBC basecoat. The color I will be using is a 64 Cadillac color Firemist Blue Metallic.
This is good also. But I would hope that you have shot a test panel...or will at least shoot a test panel so you know how much material it takes to achieve full hiding. Your paint jobber should have the "color evaluation cards" ( that is what NEXA calls them...which is also sold where PPG is sold ) that I use that allows me to shoot the color on a black and white checkered card and when I cover the squares and can not see the checkers...I know I am covered completely. You can take one of these cards...cut one black and white checker off and tape it to a paint stick. Shoot your epoxy on it and let it dry like you want. Then take another black and white checker and tape it to another paint stick. Paint BOTH of these test card sections the exact same. And when you think you have the one primed in gray to full color....see if the other one is covered. Because when you hide the black and white checkers...the other test card section will be covered...due to being painted over a gray. The worst thing is to get the car outside at night and take headlights from another car and shine it on the side and see THROUGH the paint. This is usually due to many new colors are very weak in hiding...due to all the pearl they are using in paint colors today. This is why I mentioned a test first. What looks good in the booth (regardless on how well lit your booth is) can look totally different when out in the sun or intense light directed on it...ASK me how I know this.
3. Once the two coats are applied I will let the basecoat dry for a few days and lightly wet sand with 600 grit paper.
Questionable... read after the "quoted" area.
4. Once the base is all sanded I will assemble the car, doors, hood, etc. and align all panels.
KInda right in the way I do it...for whatever that is worth...detailed description below teh "quoted" area.
5. Once all panels are aligned I will re-mask the car and spray two or three more coats of basecoat, followed immediately by four coats of Deltron 4000 clear.
Not the way I do it...read below the "quoted" area.
6. Once the clear has hardened a few days I will wet sand with 1500, 2000, and 2500 or 3000, and buff the surface.
If I am going to do this much sanding this all these different grades of paper...I wet sand the clear with 500-800 grit and re-mask again and apply more clear.
If I were not sanding it with all these grades...and stopping at 2000 grit to save clear film thickness...I come in within 24 hours and wet sand the clear and then leave it "open-cut" for a few days (depending on air/surface temps) and then buff it out. Sometimes even longer or use my infra-red heaters to cure the paint even more due to the amount of clear I have applied. Please remember that I have been buffing paint way before all of these higher grits of wet/dry paper were made. And knowing how to sand correctly...and remove texture...I do not need to do all these different higher grits to achieve a super slick paint job. I get it all done in the 1000 grit first. For me...the only benefit of these higher grade wet/dry paper grits are to ease buffing...but seeing how I know how to buff...the extra time to wet sand does not change the end result of the stages of buffing I do to get the paint slick and swirl free. It is all in the timing of when to do what. But if you feel you need to do this. By all means do not let my comment deter you from doing it.
ONCE again....and I can not write it enough. Do a COMPLETE test panel...from start to finish....literally! In doing so...obtain a paint mil gauge. YEAH, YEAH, YEAH...I KNOW...you may or may not do this. BUT...TRUST ME...unless you ACTUALLY know how much clear is being applied over your basecoat...and this is done by how you shoot your shingled test panel. When you get to the clear coat...and then sand it like you want and buff it. You might actually be shocked in how much clear you may or may not have covering the basecoat...which is where all the protection lies in this type of paint job. This test will allow you to KNOW what is going on...and the results from "others" can be completely different than what you may find due to so many variables. So comments from me and others is kinda pointless..because you paint differently, apply clear differently...use different paint equipment, percentage of paint transfer varies, etc.
Does this procedure sound correct? I am not worried about the time it will take. I just want the best job I can do. Thanks very much for any suggestions.
1. Spray the epoxy seal coat, which will be catalyzed with 401 activator, and let flash for an hour or two.
This is acceptable...as long as the DT reducer is correct for your current spraying temps at that time. Also making sure that you allow the DP epoxy to sit for 30 minutes when you mix it with the 401 before you apply it(which I am sure you know about). I also would be taking into account the temperature of the epoxy primer also. If you think that mixed and reduced epoxy primer that is at 40 degrees shoots the same as epoxy mixed and shot in the heat of the summer...you are mistaken. SHOOT a test panel to verify how it will lay down BEFORE you go in and shoot the car. ASSUME NOTHING!!!!! This will allow you to fine tune and adjust you gun, distance, travel speed, air pressure and any possible additional reduction with the DT reducer.
2. After the Epoxy flash time I plan to spray two coats of Deltron DBC basecoat. The color I will be using is a 64 Cadillac color Firemist Blue Metallic.
This is good also. But I would hope that you have shot a test panel...or will at least shoot a test panel so you know how much material it takes to achieve full hiding. Your paint jobber should have the "color evaluation cards" ( that is what NEXA calls them...which is also sold where PPG is sold ) that I use that allows me to shoot the color on a black and white checkered card and when I cover the squares and can not see the checkers...I know I am covered completely. You can take one of these cards...cut one black and white checker off and tape it to a paint stick. Shoot your epoxy on it and let it dry like you want. Then take another black and white checker and tape it to another paint stick. Paint BOTH of these test card sections the exact same. And when you think you have the one primed in gray to full color....see if the other one is covered. Because when you hide the black and white checkers...the other test card section will be covered...due to being painted over a gray. The worst thing is to get the car outside at night and take headlights from another car and shine it on the side and see THROUGH the paint. This is usually due to many new colors are very weak in hiding...due to all the pearl they are using in paint colors today. This is why I mentioned a test first. What looks good in the booth (regardless on how well lit your booth is) can look totally different when out in the sun or intense light directed on it...ASK me how I know this.
3. Once the two coats are applied I will let the basecoat dry for a few days and lightly wet sand with 600 grit paper.
Questionable... read after the "quoted" area.
4. Once the base is all sanded I will assemble the car, doors, hood, etc. and align all panels.
KInda right in the way I do it...for whatever that is worth...detailed description below teh "quoted" area.
5. Once all panels are aligned I will re-mask the car and spray two or three more coats of basecoat, followed immediately by four coats of Deltron 4000 clear.
Not the way I do it...read below the "quoted" area.
6. Once the clear has hardened a few days I will wet sand with 1500, 2000, and 2500 or 3000, and buff the surface.
If I am going to do this much sanding this all these different grades of paper...I wet sand the clear with 500-800 grit and re-mask again and apply more clear.
If I were not sanding it with all these grades...and stopping at 2000 grit to save clear film thickness...I come in within 24 hours and wet sand the clear and then leave it "open-cut" for a few days (depending on air/surface temps) and then buff it out. Sometimes even longer or use my infra-red heaters to cure the paint even more due to the amount of clear I have applied. Please remember that I have been buffing paint way before all of these higher grits of wet/dry paper were made. And knowing how to sand correctly...and remove texture...I do not need to do all these different higher grits to achieve a super slick paint job. I get it all done in the 1000 grit first. For me...the only benefit of these higher grade wet/dry paper grits are to ease buffing...but seeing how I know how to buff...the extra time to wet sand does not change the end result of the stages of buffing I do to get the paint slick and swirl free. It is all in the timing of when to do what. But if you feel you need to do this. By all means do not let my comment deter you from doing it.
ONCE again....and I can not write it enough. Do a COMPLETE test panel...from start to finish....literally! In doing so...obtain a paint mil gauge. YEAH, YEAH, YEAH...I KNOW...you may or may not do this. BUT...TRUST ME...unless you ACTUALLY know how much clear is being applied over your basecoat...and this is done by how you shoot your shingled test panel. When you get to the clear coat...and then sand it like you want and buff it. You might actually be shocked in how much clear you may or may not have covering the basecoat...which is where all the protection lies in this type of paint job. This test will allow you to KNOW what is going on...and the results from "others" can be completely different than what you may find due to so many variables. So comments from me and others is kinda pointless..because you paint differently, apply clear differently...use different paint equipment, percentage of paint transfer varies, etc.
Does this procedure sound correct? I am not worried about the time it will take. I just want the best job I can do. Thanks very much for any suggestions.
Though I wet sand my basecoat from time to time. I only do so unless it has to be done for a number of reasons. Usually dry sanding it works well. If I wet sand it I make sure that the wet sand paper has been allowed to soak for some time to get the stiffness in it out... so the edge of the paper does not possibly cut into the finish while sanding. Some basecoats do not like to get wet before clearing. It can be done...but if you do...allow it to dry thoroughly.
If you do not care about clear dry-spray being on your paint job...then disregard what I wrote below.
The logistics of painting any Corvette pre-1984 is a very consuming process...especially if it is a SUPER SWEET paint job. I can have easily 2 days in getting "things" set-up for the EVENTFUL day. Taking EVERYTHING into consideration. If I were to paint your car...here is how I would do it.
Get the car in the booth correctly supported (under the suspension...and NOT anywhere on the frame) so I could effectively paint every square inch easily and ensure that the clear will be able to be applied so there is NO dry-spray or rough texture.
Begin setting up the hood so it can be removed by hand so when the final coat is to be applied to make sure that the metallic's/pearls are even.
The same thing if it is a convertible. I cage the deck hinges down...which have been previously painted and cleared. the underside of the convertible deck hatch has also been painted and cleared and allowed to dry well before I plan on painting the car so when I go and mask it off....I do not have to worry about tape "tracking" due to the clear still being so soft.
Headlight buckets are OUT of the car and completely disassembled.
After the car has been completed mask off so there is no way any paint will get on anything but what I want painted....and also making sure the WAY I lay the paper...it will not effect any panel that will be set/bolted in place to get the metallic's/pearls even. VERY IMPORTANT..depending on the year. My paper hangs down all the way to the floor so no overspray gets under the car.
With the underhood area already blacked out...except for the areas that I paint body color. I mask the blacked area off....BUT NOT to the edge that I want a clean tape line. I tape it back a little bit and finish masking off the hood so the paper stays tight to the underside. Then I take vinyl masking tape and go around the area I masked off and complete the final masking so I will have a clean sharp line when un-masked. This vinyl tape will be immediately removed when I get done clearcoating the underside of this area of the hood that has been basecoated...but still allowing the rest of the hood to be protected.
The underside of the convertible hatch can also be completely painted and cleared and allowed to dry. Very careful masking and use of vinyl masking tape can allow you to mask it so precisely...that when the exterior and edges are painted and cleared...you will not have a thick edge to contend with. Just make sure you peel the vinyl tape off when you have completed clearing the convertible hatch lid. So the vinyl taping is done at the very last when you are masking the underside off.
Depending on the area that you are painting in will determine how much of the car is assembled for painting.
If you have a limited area:
The under hood gutter area, convertible gutter area, under the hood (if you choose to paint the edge section body color or leave the complete underside of the hood black to the edge), inside of the doors and door jambs. These areas get painted first so the color is on them...this is why you test. Then you set the hood and convertible hatch lid in place...slightly raised so you get the edges painted well. The doors then are installed well enough so you can open then without hitting anywhere. It does not matter if they fit perfectly...because they will come back off. Paint the car. On the final coat to get the metallics correct. I hold the headlight buckets by hand and get the paint right...set the wiper grilles in place for the final dusting of metallics...and lower exhaust filler panel also. When all is done and the paint has been allowed to dry a bit. Doors, hood, convertible hatch lid, wiper grilles and lower exhaust filler are removed supported or whatever you decided to do with them so they can be cleared. This makes it so you basically have no tape lines and the entire car can be cleared and slick when completed...depending if you apply the clear slick enough. when dry, sand buff and re-install parts and align carefully.
If you are painting in a large area with movement around all parts is good. Paint the car dis-assembled...then set parts in place and bolt the doors in place for the final coat to get it right...then remove them so they can be cleared.
I have hand made tools that allow me to raise and lift off panels without damaging the painted surfaces...but I also know how I painted them...what thinner/reducer I used ...so I know how long to wait before I attempt to try to lift them off.
Remember to remove any vinyl tape when you are done clear coating.
I leave the car masked off and wet sand and buff so it is protected from all the slinging of the compounds and glazes.
NO LIE...If I started in the morning...I would get done darn near at nighttime...and that is in the summer when I have good temps to shoot at. It all depends.
If you get started and get the car painted...but it is getting late and you literally do not want to do an "all-nighter" and you still need to get the final coat on and the clear. STOP...come back in the morning and proceed from there when you are fresh. When you look at the Product Information Bulletin...you have time...where the basecoat can be applied onto itself and still bond...often times without any scuffing/sanding. If in doubt CALL 1-800-647-6050 ( PPG/NEXA tech /color library line) And ask them for further information/suggestions.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 12-10-2013 at 06:28 PM.
11-15-2013, 08:57 AM
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Thanks DUB, I like your detail when you answer a question, it is a very great help to people that don't do this stuff every day.
So it would be better to scuff any basecoat dry. The reason I would spray a couple coats of basecoat and let it cure is so I have one last chance to remove any small bits of dirt that may have happened to get into the paint. I am painting this car in my garage, and although I will be constructing a booth, I know it will not be as good as an actual paint booth. I would assemble the car like you pointed out in your description for the final coats.
I have not yet done a test spray of the paint, as I have not purchased the base or clear yet. I definitely plan to do a spray out on a test sheet to find the correct amount of coverage.
For the next question, please do not take offense as I am not arguing with any of the points you made, it is simply a question out of curiosity. If the car is going to be sanded and buffed, why would it matter if there was some overspray on the surface from painting the jams last?
With that being said I like the way you described and I will definitely follow your guide.
Thanks for all the help you have provided me!!
So it would be better to scuff any basecoat dry. The reason I would spray a couple coats of basecoat and let it cure is so I have one last chance to remove any small bits of dirt that may have happened to get into the paint. I am painting this car in my garage, and although I will be constructing a booth, I know it will not be as good as an actual paint booth. I would assemble the car like you pointed out in your description for the final coats.
I have not yet done a test spray of the paint, as I have not purchased the base or clear yet. I definitely plan to do a spray out on a test sheet to find the correct amount of coverage.
For the next question, please do not take offense as I am not arguing with any of the points you made, it is simply a question out of curiosity. If the car is going to be sanded and buffed, why would it matter if there was some overspray on the surface from painting the jams last?
With that being said I like the way you described and I will definitely follow your guide.
Thanks for all the help you have provided me!!
11-15-2013, 06:58 PM
#9
Race Director
Thanks DUB, I like your detail when you answer a question, it is a very great help to people that don't do this stuff every day.
I take that into consideration...and I also believe in "do unto others"...and "what goes around-comes around"
So it would be better to scuff any basecoat dry. The reason I would spray a couple coats of basecoat and let it cure is so I have one last chance to remove any small bits of dirt that may have happened to get into the paint. I am painting this car in my garage, and although I will be constructing a booth, I know it will not be as good as an actual paint booth. I would assemble the car like you pointed out in your description for the final coats.
Please keep in mind that I have shot PPG for years but no longer use PPG...I switched to NEXA many, many years ago and have not looked back and regretted it a bit. With that written,...I do wet sand my base if needed. It is a 50/50 deal. All depends on what it is I need to repair to get it to what I want. If the sealer I used had a slight run or sag in it....and I needed to get the basecoat on the sealer within the specific time...to keep it compliant with being able to chemically adhere....and this sag/run was the only spot on the car. I would not hold up the whole paint job on one small spot. I would apply the basecoat and then give it some time for these to cure so I could cut out the sag/run. This is when I would wet sand it...then if there are other specks and such that I want out...I might wet sand it also. But I am very conserved when I am doing it and I am not getting water all over the place. Only where I need it to be.
As long as you have your "booth" sealed up very well and get your air flow right. Shooting in a approved booth or your set-up could turn out the same results. Also for what it is worth. When you get done with the painting completely...leave your fan running until the next day. "WHY???" Do you ask. If you do not...and the clear that you used ...had a reducer in it...or even if it did not...when the clear is curing out...if the vapors/fumes from this process are allowed to stagnate in a room. These vapors/fumes from the curing clear WILL come out of the clear...go up and then lay right back down on the clear and cause it to "die-back". Mainly on all horizontal surfaces. The sides...not so much. So when you walk out of the "booth" and admire what you accomplished...and it looks crystal clear and shining like crazy....and then you walk in the next morning and you can see that the clear looks kinda "dead"...and the reflection factor is hazy...this is why. So..thus allowing the fumes/vapors that are coming off the curing clear to escape is something I always do...it also aid in curing due to the air movement is removing these vapors/fumes and thus keeps the environment not so saturated with them...which...in my opinion has to do something to the curing process of the clear. The cost of the electricity for running my fan all night is nothing that I feel in the wallet. And I also cut and buff the paint...but I prefer to see it shiny instead of dying back. It is mental thing.
I have not yet done a test spray of the paint, as I have not purchased the base or clear yet. I definitely plan to do a spray out on a test sheet to find the correct amount of coverage.
One thing I forgot to mention...along with some others that may come to mind later, Remember this when you are shooting your test panel. It is VERY IMPORTANT when trying to achieve a color match for a repair...especially a metallic/pearl color. But it also applies here also. When you go in to paint your car...you will reduce/thin and mix the color, filter/strain it when you put it in the gun cup...which will more than likely be a gravity feed gun...then spray it until the cup is empty...or almost empty...then mix/stir the paint in the can...strain/filter out some more in the gun cup to complete the first coat. Then you will more than likely take what is left in your gun cup and EMPTY it back into your mixing can with all your reduced/thinned paint...RIGHT??? Well...do the SAME when you paint your test panel. When you get done with one coat on the test panel...pour your paint in the gun cup BACK into the mixing can/bucket with the other mixed paint. Stir/mix and strain/filter,re-fill the gun cup and spray another coat..when dome, pour it back into the mixing can/bucket. Keep doing this until you have achieved the coverage you need. "WHY???" Because you are a using a gravity feed gun...and it would not matter if it was an old suction feed gun also. IF you leave the paint in the gun...after you shot ONE coat..and then hang the gun and wait the 10-20 minutes for the basecoat to "flash"...when you go back...the metallics/pearls in the color will SETTLE to the bottom of the gun...which is right behind the needle. SO when you go and pull the trigger for the next coat. The concentration of the metallics/pearls is greater than what the color calls for...thus throwing off the color...thus throwing off how it will cover...and thus making this test pointless.
When you go and paint your car...the more you can make sure you keep the mix stirred...the better you will be.
DO you know how to make a shingle panel for checking the paint mil thickness so you know how much clear you have on the car??? I will be glad to describe it out for you if you like. Simple and easy. Easier to do than type out. No problem either way. It REALLY need to be done. Unless you do not care and want take the chance.
For the next question, please do not take offense as I am not arguing with any of the points you made, it is simply a question out of curiosity. If the car is going to be sanded and buffed, why would it matter if there was some overspray on the surface from painting the jams last?
With that being said I like the way you described and I will definitely follow your guide.
NO problem...NO OFFENSE taken at all. As a matter of fact...I am glad you are "thinking"...and not having to have everything described. TOUCHDOWN!!! EXTRA POINT!!!
YES...when you a repainting the clear...keep this in mind. Due to your air flow (coming in and going out) the area of the car that is having air being pulled directly onto it will dry faster than the other end of the car which does not have this benefit. So when I begin painting I start at the end of the car that does NOT have air blowing against it due to the air being drawn through my intake filters. the I work towards the intake filters. This is so when i go back in...the end I started at is flashed off and keeping up with the part of the car that has air coming across it all the time. ON THE FINAL COAT OF PAINT...I REVERSE the direction I start at. This is because the basecoat will be allowed to flash for much longer than when I painting between coats...so it does not matter...and I like the fact that the overspray is begin pulled across the car and I am painting into it and melting this super fine dust into what I am painting....so when I enter into the booth to begin clearing. I can take a tack rag and run it across the car and NOT get any color on the tack rag. Or if I do get some...it is so minute..it does not matter.
Clearcoating is the same way as how I painted the base...until I get to the last coat of clear...then I begin at the area of the car that has air blowing/coming across it and clear it.
AND YES...you are CORRECT
...I also make sure that the areas of the car that I do not want to have any overspray on them I shoot LAST...so this would be the door jambs ( front and rear) the inside of the doors.... AFTER I painted the outside of the doors first and then the inner door areas....then depending on how you painted the gutter areas of the convertible area and hood area..make sure they are sweet when you area painting these areas...and I do not go back in and paint them again. I get these gutter areas when I am clearing that area.
Like I mentioned...it is a logistical nightmare. Knowing when to clear what is all due to its position in the booth so the overspray will not effect what you have painted.
When I am applying the final clearcoat. I have my door hanging and i will shoot them so the overspray that WILL get onto the car will not do any damage...and at least the inner doors area super sweet. I do not care about any issue on the outside due to cutting/buffing. Then I shoot the rear clip and stop and not shoot the rear jamb. Then I shoot the front clip. Then I shoot eh jambs..and any mist /overspray that gets onto the quarters /fenders will be easily cut and buffed off. All the other parts are shot when needed and do not matter here due to placement in my booth at the time
Thanks for all the help you have provided me!!
I take that into consideration...and I also believe in "do unto others"...and "what goes around-comes around"
So it would be better to scuff any basecoat dry. The reason I would spray a couple coats of basecoat and let it cure is so I have one last chance to remove any small bits of dirt that may have happened to get into the paint. I am painting this car in my garage, and although I will be constructing a booth, I know it will not be as good as an actual paint booth. I would assemble the car like you pointed out in your description for the final coats.
Please keep in mind that I have shot PPG for years but no longer use PPG...I switched to NEXA many, many years ago and have not looked back and regretted it a bit. With that written,...I do wet sand my base if needed. It is a 50/50 deal. All depends on what it is I need to repair to get it to what I want. If the sealer I used had a slight run or sag in it....and I needed to get the basecoat on the sealer within the specific time...to keep it compliant with being able to chemically adhere....and this sag/run was the only spot on the car. I would not hold up the whole paint job on one small spot. I would apply the basecoat and then give it some time for these to cure so I could cut out the sag/run. This is when I would wet sand it...then if there are other specks and such that I want out...I might wet sand it also. But I am very conserved when I am doing it and I am not getting water all over the place. Only where I need it to be.
As long as you have your "booth" sealed up very well and get your air flow right. Shooting in a approved booth or your set-up could turn out the same results. Also for what it is worth. When you get done with the painting completely...leave your fan running until the next day. "WHY???" Do you ask. If you do not...and the clear that you used ...had a reducer in it...or even if it did not...when the clear is curing out...if the vapors/fumes from this process are allowed to stagnate in a room. These vapors/fumes from the curing clear WILL come out of the clear...go up and then lay right back down on the clear and cause it to "die-back". Mainly on all horizontal surfaces. The sides...not so much. So when you walk out of the "booth" and admire what you accomplished...and it looks crystal clear and shining like crazy....and then you walk in the next morning and you can see that the clear looks kinda "dead"...and the reflection factor is hazy...this is why. So..thus allowing the fumes/vapors that are coming off the curing clear to escape is something I always do...it also aid in curing due to the air movement is removing these vapors/fumes and thus keeps the environment not so saturated with them...which...in my opinion has to do something to the curing process of the clear. The cost of the electricity for running my fan all night is nothing that I feel in the wallet. And I also cut and buff the paint...but I prefer to see it shiny instead of dying back. It is mental thing.
I have not yet done a test spray of the paint, as I have not purchased the base or clear yet. I definitely plan to do a spray out on a test sheet to find the correct amount of coverage.
One thing I forgot to mention...along with some others that may come to mind later, Remember this when you are shooting your test panel. It is VERY IMPORTANT when trying to achieve a color match for a repair...especially a metallic/pearl color. But it also applies here also. When you go in to paint your car...you will reduce/thin and mix the color, filter/strain it when you put it in the gun cup...which will more than likely be a gravity feed gun...then spray it until the cup is empty...or almost empty...then mix/stir the paint in the can...strain/filter out some more in the gun cup to complete the first coat. Then you will more than likely take what is left in your gun cup and EMPTY it back into your mixing can with all your reduced/thinned paint...RIGHT??? Well...do the SAME when you paint your test panel. When you get done with one coat on the test panel...pour your paint in the gun cup BACK into the mixing can/bucket with the other mixed paint. Stir/mix and strain/filter,re-fill the gun cup and spray another coat..when dome, pour it back into the mixing can/bucket. Keep doing this until you have achieved the coverage you need. "WHY???" Because you are a using a gravity feed gun...and it would not matter if it was an old suction feed gun also. IF you leave the paint in the gun...after you shot ONE coat..and then hang the gun and wait the 10-20 minutes for the basecoat to "flash"...when you go back...the metallics/pearls in the color will SETTLE to the bottom of the gun...which is right behind the needle. SO when you go and pull the trigger for the next coat. The concentration of the metallics/pearls is greater than what the color calls for...thus throwing off the color...thus throwing off how it will cover...and thus making this test pointless.
When you go and paint your car...the more you can make sure you keep the mix stirred...the better you will be.
DO you know how to make a shingle panel for checking the paint mil thickness so you know how much clear you have on the car??? I will be glad to describe it out for you if you like. Simple and easy. Easier to do than type out. No problem either way. It REALLY need to be done. Unless you do not care and want take the chance.
For the next question, please do not take offense as I am not arguing with any of the points you made, it is simply a question out of curiosity. If the car is going to be sanded and buffed, why would it matter if there was some overspray on the surface from painting the jams last?
With that being said I like the way you described and I will definitely follow your guide.
NO problem...NO OFFENSE taken at all. As a matter of fact...I am glad you are "thinking"...and not having to have everything described. TOUCHDOWN!!! EXTRA POINT!!!
YES...when you a repainting the clear...keep this in mind. Due to your air flow (coming in and going out) the area of the car that is having air being pulled directly onto it will dry faster than the other end of the car which does not have this benefit. So when I begin painting I start at the end of the car that does NOT have air blowing against it due to the air being drawn through my intake filters. the I work towards the intake filters. This is so when i go back in...the end I started at is flashed off and keeping up with the part of the car that has air coming across it all the time. ON THE FINAL COAT OF PAINT...I REVERSE the direction I start at. This is because the basecoat will be allowed to flash for much longer than when I painting between coats...so it does not matter...and I like the fact that the overspray is begin pulled across the car and I am painting into it and melting this super fine dust into what I am painting....so when I enter into the booth to begin clearing. I can take a tack rag and run it across the car and NOT get any color on the tack rag. Or if I do get some...it is so minute..it does not matter.
Clearcoating is the same way as how I painted the base...until I get to the last coat of clear...then I begin at the area of the car that has air blowing/coming across it and clear it.
AND YES...you are CORRECT
...I also make sure that the areas of the car that I do not want to have any overspray on them I shoot LAST...so this would be the door jambs ( front and rear) the inside of the doors.... AFTER I painted the outside of the doors first and then the inner door areas....then depending on how you painted the gutter areas of the convertible area and hood area..make sure they are sweet when you area painting these areas...and I do not go back in and paint them again. I get these gutter areas when I am clearing that area.Like I mentioned...it is a logistical nightmare. Knowing when to clear what is all due to its position in the booth so the overspray will not effect what you have painted.
When I am applying the final clearcoat. I have my door hanging and i will shoot them so the overspray that WILL get onto the car will not do any damage...and at least the inner doors area super sweet. I do not care about any issue on the outside due to cutting/buffing. Then I shoot the rear clip and stop and not shoot the rear jamb. Then I shoot the front clip. Then I shoot eh jambs..and any mist /overspray that gets onto the quarters /fenders will be easily cut and buffed off. All the other parts are shot when needed and do not matter here due to placement in my booth at the time
Thanks for all the help you have provided me!!
Do not hesitate to question anything I write. Sometimes I have a "brain-fart" and mess up...because I am only HUMAN>
DUB
11-19-2013, 01:01 PM
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Thanks DUB. I appreciate all your help. The PPG basecoat does not have to be used with an activator, but it can be used with one. Do you recommend using an activator or not.
Also, I know this is not a paint and body question, but since you own a corvette restoration shop I was wondering how much insight you might have about the GM engineering and styling corvettes from the sixties? If you do not maybe you would know who might know a little about them.
Thanks
Also, I know this is not a paint and body question, but since you own a corvette restoration shop I was wondering how much insight you might have about the GM engineering and styling corvettes from the sixties? If you do not maybe you would know who might know a little about them.
Thanks
11-19-2013, 06:02 PM
#11
Race Director
thanks dub. I appreciate all your help. The ppg basecoat does not have to be used with an activator, but it can be used with one. Do you recommend using an activator or not.
there are times when using an activator in your basecoat is recommended. This often times occurs on urethane bumper covers...some painters do it all the time. It does change the characteristics of it...so waiting a day and re-applying it...much like what has been discussed...if you still plan on doing that. It more than likely would require a very good scuffing. I do not do it that way so i would actually have some concerns in those areas that i might miss scuffing/sanding...if i would loose adhesion due to waiting overnight to apply the final coat of base....and areas not being scuffed/sanded if the base would be able to "bite-in" abd adhere. When i use my activated basecoat in nexa...i am doing it a "wet-on-wet" procedure so i would have to call 1-800-647-6050 and ask for the tech dept and see what they would say if you did use activator and waited past the recommended time for clear to be directly applied....what would have to be done to make sure you have proper cross-linking.
also, i know this is not a paint and body question, but since you own a corvette restoration shop i was wondering how much insight you might have about the gm engineering and styling corvettes from the sixties? If you do not maybe you would know who might know a little about them.
Thanks
what do you need to know? I have had then dismantled down and re-assembled. Modified and improved on where gm had improvements and the owners were not worrying about if it was like it was when it rolled off the assembly line. So there is not much about a 63-67 that i have not encountered. It all depends on what it is you are asking about. Have i mentioned to you that you should install upper top hood surround shields in your car so when you go down the road...and your fresh tires pick up a stone...and throws it to the underside of your top hood surround ( just above your front tire) ...that it does not put a "starburst" crack in your body??? Something like that. It was not factory installed or offered...but totally prevents a major body repair...especially in your fresh paint and body work.
there are times when using an activator in your basecoat is recommended. This often times occurs on urethane bumper covers...some painters do it all the time. It does change the characteristics of it...so waiting a day and re-applying it...much like what has been discussed...if you still plan on doing that. It more than likely would require a very good scuffing. I do not do it that way so i would actually have some concerns in those areas that i might miss scuffing/sanding...if i would loose adhesion due to waiting overnight to apply the final coat of base....and areas not being scuffed/sanded if the base would be able to "bite-in" abd adhere. When i use my activated basecoat in nexa...i am doing it a "wet-on-wet" procedure so i would have to call 1-800-647-6050 and ask for the tech dept and see what they would say if you did use activator and waited past the recommended time for clear to be directly applied....what would have to be done to make sure you have proper cross-linking.
also, i know this is not a paint and body question, but since you own a corvette restoration shop i was wondering how much insight you might have about the gm engineering and styling corvettes from the sixties? If you do not maybe you would know who might know a little about them.
Thanks
what do you need to know? I have had then dismantled down and re-assembled. Modified and improved on where gm had improvements and the owners were not worrying about if it was like it was when it rolled off the assembly line. So there is not much about a 63-67 that i have not encountered. It all depends on what it is you are asking about. Have i mentioned to you that you should install upper top hood surround shields in your car so when you go down the road...and your fresh tires pick up a stone...and throws it to the underside of your top hood surround ( just above your front tire) ...that it does not put a "starburst" crack in your body??? Something like that. It was not factory installed or offered...but totally prevents a major body repair...especially in your fresh paint and body work.
Last edited by DUB; 11-19-2013 at 06:05 PM. Reason: corrections
11-19-2013, 06:18 PM
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http://www.vetteweb.com/features/vem...olet_corvette/
Here is a link to an article that was written a while back about the car. I thought it would be easier to give the link than type everything in. I haven't been able to find too much out about it other than what is in the article.
Here is a link to an article that was written a while back about the car. I thought it would be easier to give the link than type everything in. I haven't been able to find too much out about it other than what is in the article.
Last edited by stylin64; 11-19-2013 at 06:20 PM.
11-19-2013, 09:02 PM
#13
Race Director
Sorry, I can not add any more than what was in the article you found. This is one of those "special" Corvettes that have been known to be made for the "big wigs" in GM management. I know that "back then"...anything was possible ...depending on who or what was wanted. A totally different era and mentality of car manufacturing back then....and this car proves it. All it might have taken was a phone call...or a mentioning of "something wanted"...and it was done.
AWESOME!!!!
DUB
AWESOME!!!!
DUB
11-19-2013, 09:28 PM
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The article is about my car. I inherited from my dad when he passed away. I am restoring the car as we speak and it is the car I am painting. That is why I am painting it the Cadillac Firefrost Blue Metallic. Jerry Heasley wrote the article about my car, when I contacted him about finding some info out about it. The most I have found out is that it is speculated it was a big block pilot car. There are no records about these cars so it is very hard to find anything out. I thought I would ask just to see if you possibly would know something or maybe know someone who may know something. Thanks anyway and again thanks for your advice.
12-09-2013, 10:13 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
On you question numbers 3,4 and 5.
Though I wet sand my basecoat from time to time. I only do so unless it has to be done for a number of reasons. Usually dry sanding it works well. If I wet sand it I make sure that the wet sand paper has been allowed to soak for some time to get the stiffness in it out... so the edge of the paper does not possibly cut into the finish while sanding. Some basecoats do not like to get wet before clearing. It can be done...but if you do...allow it to dry thoroughly.
If you do not care about clear dry-spray being on your paint job...then disregard what I wrote below.
The logistics of painting any Corvette pre-1984 is a very consuming process...especially if it is a SUPER SWEET paint job. I can have easily 2 days in getting "things" set-up for the EVENTFUL day. Taking EVERYTHING into consideration. If I were to paint your car...her is how I would do it.
Get the car in the booth correctly supported (under the suspension...and NOT anywhere on the frame) so I could effectively paint every square inch easily and ensure that the clear will be able to be applied so there is NO dry-spray or rough texture.
Begin setting up the hood so it can be removed by hand so when the final coat is to be applied to make sure that the metallic's/pearls are even.
The same thing if it is a convertible. I cage the deck hinges down...which have been previously painted and cleared. the underside of the convertible deck hatch has also been painted and cleared and allowed to dry well before I plan on painting the car so when I go and mask it off....I do not have to worry about tape "tracking" due to the clear still being so soft.
Headlight buckets are OUT of the car and completely disassembled.
After the car has been completed mask off so there is no way any paint will get on anything but what I want painted....and also making sure the WAY I lay the paper...it will not effect any panel that will be set/bolted in place to get the metallic's/pearls even. VERY IMPORTANT..depending on the year. My paper hangs down all the way to the floor so no overspray gets under the car.
With the underhood area already blacked out...except for the areas that I paint body color. I mask the blacked area off....BUT NOT to the edge that I want a clean tape line. I tape it back a little bit and finish masking off the hood so the paper stays tight to the underside. Then I take vinyl masking tape and go around the area I masked off and complete the final masking so I will have a clean sharp line when un-masked. This vinyl tape will be immediately removed when I get done clearcoating the underside of this area of the hood that has been basecoated...but still allowing the rest of the hood to be protected.
The underside of the convertible hatch can also be completely painted and cleared and allowed to dry. Very careful masking and use of vinyl masking tape can allow you to mask it so precisely...that when the exterior and edges are painted and cleared...you will not have a thick edge to contend with. Just make sure you peel the vinyl tape off when you have completed clearing the convertible hatch lid. So the vinyl taping is done at the very last when you are masking the underside off.
Depending on the area that you are painting in will determine how much of the car is assembled for painting.
If you have a limited area:
The under hood gutter area, convertible gutter area, under the hood (if you choose to paint the edge section body color or leave the complete underside of the hood black to the edge), inside of the doors and door jambs. These areas get painted first so the color is on them...this is why you test. Then you set the hood and convertible hatch lid in place...slightly raised so you get the edges painted well. The doors then are installed well enough so you can open then without hitting anywhere. It does not matter if they fit perfectly...because they will come back off. Paint the car. On the final coat to get the metallics correct. I hold the headlight buckets by hand and get the paint right...set the wiper grilles in place for the final dusting of metallics...and lower exhaust filler panel also. When all is done and the paint has been allowed to dry a bit. Doors, hood, convertible hatch lid, wiper grilles and lower exhaust filler are removed supported or whatever you decided to do with them so they can be cleared. This makes it so you basically have no tape lines and the entire car can be cleared and slick when completed...depending if you apply the clear slick enough. when dry, sand buff and re-install parts and align carefully.
If you are painting in a large area with movement around all parts is good. Paint the car dis-assembled...then set parts in place and bolt the doors in place for the final coat to get it right...then remove them so they can be cleared.
I have hand made tools that allow me to raise and lift off panels without damaging the painted surfaces...but I also know how I painted them...what thinner/reducer I used ...so I know how long to wait before I attempt to try to lift them off.
Remember to remove any vinyl tape when you are done clear coating.
I leave the car masked off and wet sand and buff so it is protected from all the slinging of the compounds and glazes.
NO LIE...If I started in the morning...I would get done darn near at nighttime...and that is in the summer when I have good temps to shoot at. It all depends.
If you get started and get the car painted...but it is getting late and you literally do not want to do an "all-nighter" and you still need to get the final coat on and the clear. STOP...come back in the morning and proceed from there when you are fresh. When you look at the Product Information Bulletin...you have time...where the basecoat can be applied onto itself and still bond...often times without any scuffing/sanding. If in doubt CALL 1-800-647-6050 ( PPG/NEXA tech /color library line) And ask them for further information/suggestions.
DUB
Though I wet sand my basecoat from time to time. I only do so unless it has to be done for a number of reasons. Usually dry sanding it works well. If I wet sand it I make sure that the wet sand paper has been allowed to soak for some time to get the stiffness in it out... so the edge of the paper does not possibly cut into the finish while sanding. Some basecoats do not like to get wet before clearing. It can be done...but if you do...allow it to dry thoroughly.
If you do not care about clear dry-spray being on your paint job...then disregard what I wrote below.
The logistics of painting any Corvette pre-1984 is a very consuming process...especially if it is a SUPER SWEET paint job. I can have easily 2 days in getting "things" set-up for the EVENTFUL day. Taking EVERYTHING into consideration. If I were to paint your car...her is how I would do it.
Get the car in the booth correctly supported (under the suspension...and NOT anywhere on the frame) so I could effectively paint every square inch easily and ensure that the clear will be able to be applied so there is NO dry-spray or rough texture.
Begin setting up the hood so it can be removed by hand so when the final coat is to be applied to make sure that the metallic's/pearls are even.
The same thing if it is a convertible. I cage the deck hinges down...which have been previously painted and cleared. the underside of the convertible deck hatch has also been painted and cleared and allowed to dry well before I plan on painting the car so when I go and mask it off....I do not have to worry about tape "tracking" due to the clear still being so soft.
Headlight buckets are OUT of the car and completely disassembled.
After the car has been completed mask off so there is no way any paint will get on anything but what I want painted....and also making sure the WAY I lay the paper...it will not effect any panel that will be set/bolted in place to get the metallic's/pearls even. VERY IMPORTANT..depending on the year. My paper hangs down all the way to the floor so no overspray gets under the car.
With the underhood area already blacked out...except for the areas that I paint body color. I mask the blacked area off....BUT NOT to the edge that I want a clean tape line. I tape it back a little bit and finish masking off the hood so the paper stays tight to the underside. Then I take vinyl masking tape and go around the area I masked off and complete the final masking so I will have a clean sharp line when un-masked. This vinyl tape will be immediately removed when I get done clearcoating the underside of this area of the hood that has been basecoated...but still allowing the rest of the hood to be protected.
The underside of the convertible hatch can also be completely painted and cleared and allowed to dry. Very careful masking and use of vinyl masking tape can allow you to mask it so precisely...that when the exterior and edges are painted and cleared...you will not have a thick edge to contend with. Just make sure you peel the vinyl tape off when you have completed clearing the convertible hatch lid. So the vinyl taping is done at the very last when you are masking the underside off.
Depending on the area that you are painting in will determine how much of the car is assembled for painting.
If you have a limited area:
The under hood gutter area, convertible gutter area, under the hood (if you choose to paint the edge section body color or leave the complete underside of the hood black to the edge), inside of the doors and door jambs. These areas get painted first so the color is on them...this is why you test. Then you set the hood and convertible hatch lid in place...slightly raised so you get the edges painted well. The doors then are installed well enough so you can open then without hitting anywhere. It does not matter if they fit perfectly...because they will come back off. Paint the car. On the final coat to get the metallics correct. I hold the headlight buckets by hand and get the paint right...set the wiper grilles in place for the final dusting of metallics...and lower exhaust filler panel also. When all is done and the paint has been allowed to dry a bit. Doors, hood, convertible hatch lid, wiper grilles and lower exhaust filler are removed supported or whatever you decided to do with them so they can be cleared. This makes it so you basically have no tape lines and the entire car can be cleared and slick when completed...depending if you apply the clear slick enough. when dry, sand buff and re-install parts and align carefully.
If you are painting in a large area with movement around all parts is good. Paint the car dis-assembled...then set parts in place and bolt the doors in place for the final coat to get it right...then remove them so they can be cleared.
I have hand made tools that allow me to raise and lift off panels without damaging the painted surfaces...but I also know how I painted them...what thinner/reducer I used ...so I know how long to wait before I attempt to try to lift them off.
Remember to remove any vinyl tape when you are done clear coating.
I leave the car masked off and wet sand and buff so it is protected from all the slinging of the compounds and glazes.
NO LIE...If I started in the morning...I would get done darn near at nighttime...and that is in the summer when I have good temps to shoot at. It all depends.
If you get started and get the car painted...but it is getting late and you literally do not want to do an "all-nighter" and you still need to get the final coat on and the clear. STOP...come back in the morning and proceed from there when you are fresh. When you look at the Product Information Bulletin...you have time...where the basecoat can be applied onto itself and still bond...often times without any scuffing/sanding. If in doubt CALL 1-800-647-6050 ( PPG/NEXA tech /color library line) And ask them for further information/suggestions.
DUB
Can you tell us how you lift off the freshly painted hood without damaging it. I would like to take mine off prior to clearing but I'm not sure I could do it by myself without messing it up.
Thanks,
Craig
12-10-2013, 07:09 PM
#16
Race Director
Craig,
Not to be a jerk...but carefully.
The basecoat has dried very well before I touch it. This gets into a whole other issue on the correct choice of reducer/thinner and how to apply the basecoat....which also depends on the paint you use and who made the paint.
I have tool that I have made that allow me to lift up an edge of the hood (due to how I have masked it and and set it up and know that I need to remove the hood )so I can get my hand under the hood and lift it off. Sometimes I need the tool...sometimes I do not....it all depends on the year model and other issues. If it is a heavy hood...1974 for example...I have a helper lift also. THIS PROCEDURE HAD BEEN TESTED BEFORE I PAINT ANYTHING. I do not assume anything. Sometimes I may do several "dry-runs" to make sure that the hood will go on where I want it and then come off without any snags.
I have painted so many in this method that I know exactly how to mask off under the hood and the engine compartment so none of my tape releases or I tear paper. I have paid dearly for this knowledge and where I had to change things to make it now second nature. But it is still time consuming and tedious...just because I do it often does not make it any easier or faster. I just know what I am trying to do...and know how to get there.
The "devil" is in the fine details. Like I comment to others that they need to spray test panels...all I will say is to test, test, test. I have masked a Corvette for hours ( in the past) to completely rip it ALL off and start again. REMEMBER...tape will NOT STICK to anything that has not been cleaned so it can stick. SO the initial prep in wheel wells, backside of rockers,etc make a difference or when you go and pull the trigger and your tape lets loose in the painting process...You will wish you had spent the time in making sure where you plan on applying tape is clean. I spend literally hours before I even begin stripping a car making sure all of the areas that I know will come back and "bite-me" ( like they did in the past) have been thoroughly cleaned so they can NOT bite me any more....and then clean them again right before the car goes in the booth for masking.
WHEN to pre-apply the basecoat to get coverage and WHERE to do it. Where to mask and how to mask and or use fineline tape. YEARS AND YEARS of messing up... and honing my procedure to the point that I have got it where I want it. Like I wrote before...the logistics are mind blowing.....and I have been doing this for 20+ years and it still takes me days to get it all set-up so nothing happens.
TRUST ME....be patient and aware of your decisions. I used to always ask "what if". I still ask it...but not as often due to knowing the answer(s).
On new year models..I will think about it for days before I begin my procedure. I will "what if" it in every possible scenario I can think of.... so it goes off without a hitch...and will look as if no one ever painted it. That is the trick when I am matching a factory job.
DUB
Not to be a jerk...but carefully.
The basecoat has dried very well before I touch it. This gets into a whole other issue on the correct choice of reducer/thinner and how to apply the basecoat....which also depends on the paint you use and who made the paint.
I have tool that I have made that allow me to lift up an edge of the hood (due to how I have masked it and and set it up and know that I need to remove the hood )so I can get my hand under the hood and lift it off. Sometimes I need the tool...sometimes I do not....it all depends on the year model and other issues. If it is a heavy hood...1974 for example...I have a helper lift also. THIS PROCEDURE HAD BEEN TESTED BEFORE I PAINT ANYTHING. I do not assume anything. Sometimes I may do several "dry-runs" to make sure that the hood will go on where I want it and then come off without any snags.
I have painted so many in this method that I know exactly how to mask off under the hood and the engine compartment so none of my tape releases or I tear paper. I have paid dearly for this knowledge and where I had to change things to make it now second nature. But it is still time consuming and tedious...just because I do it often does not make it any easier or faster. I just know what I am trying to do...and know how to get there.
The "devil" is in the fine details. Like I comment to others that they need to spray test panels...all I will say is to test, test, test. I have masked a Corvette for hours ( in the past) to completely rip it ALL off and start again. REMEMBER...tape will NOT STICK to anything that has not been cleaned so it can stick. SO the initial prep in wheel wells, backside of rockers,etc make a difference or when you go and pull the trigger and your tape lets loose in the painting process...You will wish you had spent the time in making sure where you plan on applying tape is clean. I spend literally hours before I even begin stripping a car making sure all of the areas that I know will come back and "bite-me" ( like they did in the past) have been thoroughly cleaned so they can NOT bite me any more....and then clean them again right before the car goes in the booth for masking.
WHEN to pre-apply the basecoat to get coverage and WHERE to do it. Where to mask and how to mask and or use fineline tape. YEARS AND YEARS of messing up... and honing my procedure to the point that I have got it where I want it. Like I wrote before...the logistics are mind blowing.....and I have been doing this for 20+ years and it still takes me days to get it all set-up so nothing happens.
TRUST ME....be patient and aware of your decisions. I used to always ask "what if". I still ask it...but not as often due to knowing the answer(s).
On new year models..I will think about it for days before I begin my procedure. I will "what if" it in every possible scenario I can think of.... so it goes off without a hitch...and will look as if no one ever painted it. That is the trick when I am matching a factory job.
DUB
12-11-2013, 05:15 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
DUB,
Thanks for the information. I have kicked so many ideas around for how I'm going to paint this thing. I value the information from painters like yourself with much more experience than I have.
Craig
Thanks for the information. I have kicked so many ideas around for how I'm going to paint this thing. I value the information from painters like yourself with much more experience than I have.
Craig
12-11-2013, 05:49 PM
#18
Race Director
I know all about having ides "kicking around" inside my head. I deal with it most every day. And there is a time when you have to make "that" decision and get on with the project....which I also know oh too well.
DUB