irterry

I am in the 4th year of doing a body-off resto on my 1960 Corvette, # 103804. It was COMPLETELY taken apart. A little strategic sanding on body revealed the original color was Tasco Turquoise. When I bought the car 14 years ago it was a modest driver and painted Red over the original color and an intermediate mint green (don’t know who would do that to it). I am not trying to achieve a judged car… I just want a nice driver that is close to original for my own satisfaction. My son and I are doing all the work we can by ourselves and have not restored a car before.
The rolling chassis has been completely done. Looks darn good. All subsystems are rebuilt (heater, starter, instruments, steering, brakes, etc) all new upholstery redone by Al Knoch, all chrome to be plated by Space Coast , 283 to be built by 5 Star Engines with correct head and block castings.
I have done the following:
1. I had the body media blasted. The job was a little heavy handed but came out OK.
2. Sanded residual around seams, etc. with 80 grit (took a lot longer than it sounds)
3. Prepped/degreased with PPG DX330
4. 2 coats of PPG DP40LF 2K epoxy primer
5. Did all significant fiberglass work (cracks, seams, minor previous body damage) with good fiberglass repair techniques
6. 3 coats PPG K38 2K high build primer
7. Block sanded with 180 grit to reasonably flat
8. Used Dynatron Dyna-Lite to fill residual pitting/low areas
9. Planning 3 more coats of K38 high build and block sanding with 280 grit
10. Planning 1 more coat of K38 (surfacer mix) and sanding to 400 grit if I finish with base-clear or sand to 1000 grit if I use single stage Urthane.
11. Color sand and buff
Finally the question: I broke through to fiberglass in 6-8 places at step 7. What to do. Do I spot paint the raw fiberglass with epoxy again ( I don’t think you are suppose to spot paint with the epoxy), just go ahead with the next 3 coats of K38 over the raw fiberglass, OR WHAT.
I am where I am. I would appreciate any advice (except starting over).

tak82

You can spot spray the epoxy and i have done it but a complete panel is much better. If you do spot spray with DPLF you take the risk of lifting on the edges because you haven't met the required film build. How big are the areas ? you may be just fine with the K38..I also didn't understand the sanding with 1000 grit with base or single stage. You should never sand K38 past 600. Detron base coat will cover 400 sanding scratches but if your worried go to 600. Also do not sand in 280 then shoot 1 more and sand in 400. Shoot your K38, 2-3 coats, block with 280, but I'd use 320, then go to 400. Don't shoot that last 1 single coat and expect everything to stay arrow straight, you should shoot enough primer to go through the progressions of the sand paper, 320, 400, 600, follow me ? but back to the original post, what is the size of the burn through ?

tak82

Let me add, I've sprayed gallons upon gallons of DPLF and the old DP, as long as you apply it over a propply sanded surface and apply 1-2 WET coats and do not try to feather edge it, you should be ok under the K38 without edge lifting.

irterry

TAK 82, I really appreciate your knowledge. I counted about 9 burn through areas and they range from 1 to 4 inches. The 4 inch one is about 1 inch wide and 4 inches long. Also thanks for the sanding tips. I probably came up with the 1000 grit comment after misinterpreting something I read. The only thing I ever painted was a lifted golf cart. Flamed it too. It came out pretty good but not as good as I hope the Corvette will. I may chicken out and have a professional put on the color coat... I just want the result to be mostly mine.

DUB

DUB

irterry

OK. I'm new to this Forum so I must not understand it's operation. I see a new reply to my question from DUB, a Senior Member. What I don't see is anything in the reply. What am I missing?

DUB

It is basically a "kind way" for me to "lurk" on this post and watch for any other reply's.

I am "biting" my tongue. and trying to keep my thoughts to myself...because in your written description...I "feel" there are many "issues" that give me great concern...and knowing that the job has already been taken to the point of what you have described...I am not wanting to shed a "shadow" on what you have done( my opinion)....I am not wanting to be a "Debby Downer"...because I have many questions in what you wrote...and are pointless now and it is too late because you are well into the job currently....and your last three words in the original post...in parentheses... said it all. A different way of doing it.....which is why I am "lurking".

Click on the "go advanced" section below there you can reply to this post and it will show the icons you can add to your post.

DUB

AirborneSilva

now you guys got me lurking I'm no where near the paint and or prime phase but interested in learning tid bits of info and techniques.

tak82

Lets not high jack the original post of the primer, but glad AirBorneSilva your interested in learning some body and paint. For me there's nothing more rewarding than massaging a bent fender (steel) back in shape with a set of body dollies and some slapping files or fabricating a custom part with glass. There's a lot of great info on this site. I'm fairly new to glass bodied cars so there are plenty for me to learn about the fiberglass do's and don't's also but have been painting for 30 yrs now, man I'm getting old. Good luck to you !

DUB

If anything I will add...because I do steel body cars also. The process of doing the repair procedures are "somewhat" similar...but then again they are quite different.

Using acid etch primer on steel is fine...on fiberglass...I would NOT. It all depends on the product.

Wiping fiberglass/SMC with a wax and grease remover is something I would NOT do. It can absorb into the fibers and leave a residue and if it is done...it needs quite a bit of time to make sure that it has flashed off. I use ACETONE for final wipe when doing a body repair. And as most bodymen/painters know and do....they do not wipe wax and grease remover on sanded body filler. They wipe around it. Because I have seen the effects of it coming back and ruining good work....because something was shot on it too quickly and sealed it in...and then the sun brought it to the surface.

Even though I do use epoxy and/or chromate-free primer on steel cars. If the owner wants to pay to have me lead in the repair area...I can do that. If a body filler is required to be applied on top of these primers...and use a quality body filler...I am for that. But I am not "into" applying an epoxy primer on a Corvette and then applying a filler. I do all repairs first....then begin the spraying process of "whatever".

Similar ...but different...in my opinion and past experiences.

DUB

chargeron

Sorry to stray off original topic but I'm new here as well and need all the help I can get on this same subject. DUB, you seem extremely knowledgeable. I would really appreciate any tips or pointers you can give me on the step by step process that's required to make body repairs on up to paint, proper order of things,materials ect. Thanks.

DUB

Send me a Private Message (PM) I need to know what you are working on...and be descriptive.

DUB