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I apologize for piggy-backing on this thread, but it is on topic and makes me want to ask DUB a question...
I have a similar issue on a rear quarter panel. Cracked and separated along the bonding strip, but bonding strip is intact. My plan was to re-glue to the strip with the evercoat 994 and then v notch / feather it out and glass it in with the West Epoxy System and fiberglass mat.
DUB - am I misinterpreting that you are saying to use the 994 for the entire fix, no glass?
I apologize for piggy-backing on this thread, but it is on topic and makes me want to ask DUB a question...
I have a similar issue on a rear quarter panel. Cracked and separated along the bonding strip, but bonding strip is intact. My plan was to re-glue to the strip with the evercoat 994 and then v notch / feather it out and glass it in with the West Epoxy System and fiberglass mat.
DUB - am I misinterpreting that you are saying to use the 994 for the entire fix, no glass?
If you have a bonding strip to panel separation....where the bonding strip AND/OR the panel did NOT get damaged. Then ...if it is possible (because I am NOT there and can not see what you have going on)...YES...you can clean/prep the separation and use the 994 and bond it back together and NOT need to do any laminating.
I have repaired NUMEROUS bonding strips that have popped loose and the panels and strip were in very good shape. So I prep the surfaces so it can accept the adhesive and bond well...pack in the area where the 994 needs to go and let it cure.
REMEMBER...the 994 is NOT a filler ...like the 870/880. So applying a thin coat of 994 is NOT good and will more than likely NOT CURE. 994 needs to be thick.
And if you are good...you can use some fiberglass strands in with the 994 to give it more strength. And when filling in the seam...remember it would be wise to fill in the seam as much as you can with the 994...then I would grind it down a little bit (i.e. thickness of a wood matchstick) and then do ALL my finish work with the 870/880 Vette Panel Adhesive.
I appreciate the close up photos. I need more. Take one from further away so I can see the entire panel. YES ...it matters.
I need you to give more information...Be cause I can not climb around your car and see it on the inside.
The cracked wheel well lip is needing to be lamented. BUT...that vertical crack is what is concerning me. Which is why I need a photo from further away...and then tell me what is behind that vertical crack. It appears that it may be a splash shield.
The more information you give me...the better. Each bit of added information that is important that you can tell me is like turning over a square to a Jeporady puzzle. More squares that get turned over...the easier it is to solve the puzzle.
I appreciate the close up photos. I need more. Take one from further away so I can see the entire panel. YES ...it matters.
I need you to give more information...Be cause I can not climb around your car and see it on the inside.
The cracked wheel well lip is needing to be lamented. BUT...that vertical crack is what is concerning me. Which is why I need a photo from further away...and then tell me what is behind that vertical crack. It appears that it may be a splash shield.
The more information you give me...the better. Each bit of added information that is important that you can tell me is like turning over a square to a Jeporady puzzle. More squares that get turned over...the easier it is to solve the puzzle.
DUB
Thanks Dub. I will get you some more pictures either later or tomorrow. The vertical crack closest to the rear of the car does go all the way down and over to the wheel well lip. Previous owner / someone gobbered it up with some sort of goop or adhesive at the well lip that needs to be ground off.
Quick back story... in the process of a resto-mod, and upon pulling my windshield I found some pretty good upper corner rot. Further investigation to the lower corners became even worse. Front end was then separated from the firewall. Birdcage was shot. Was at a crossroads on whether to fix or not, and came across this shell that you see (black car). It had been a garage beauty for all it's life with very low mileage when it was in some sort off front left collision. I went to see it and found the front end was all ready separated form the firewall, and the new owner took the perfect interior and a few other things. I made a deal with him for the shell and met a few days later to pull it from the frame.
The trade-off was it has an absolute perfectly clean birdcage, but has rear quarter body damage and a small crack on the lower driver's firewall.
Body work seemed like a much easier fix then a shot birdcage! So my front end will be mated to this shell. I have the firewall completely stripped and interior (what was left) is stripped. The only thing left on it is the front and rear windows. I plan to fix/clean/prep/paint firewall and underside and then it will be mounted to my rolling chassis which is nearly complete.
I'd like to get the quarter roughed in before it goes for body work and paint.
Thanks Dub. I will get you some more pictures either later or tomorrow. The vertical crack closest to the rear of the car does go all the way down and over to the wheel well lip. Previous owner / someone gobbered it up with some sort of goop or adhesive at the well lip that needs to be ground off.
Quick back story... in the process of a resto-mod, and upon pulling my windshield I found some pretty good upper corner rot. Further investigation to the lower corners became even worse. Front end was then separated from the firewall. Birdcage was shot. Was at a crossroads on whether to fix or not, and came across this shell that you see (black car). It had been a garage beauty for all it's life with very low mileage when it was in some sort off front left collision. I went to see it and found the front end was all ready separated form the firewall, and the new owner took the perfect interior and a few other things. I made a deal with him for the shell and met a few days later to pull it from the frame.
The trade-off was it has an absolute perfectly clean birdcage, but has rear quarter body damage and a small crack on the lower driver's firewall.
Body work seemed like a much easier fix then a shot birdcage! So my front end will be mated to this shell. I have the firewall completely stripped and interior (what was left) is stripped. The only thing left on it is the front and rear windows. I plan to fix/clean/prep/paint firewall and underside and then it will be mounted to my rolling chassis which is nearly complete.
I'd like to get the quarter roughed in before it goes for body work and paint.
Thanks I needed to read that....very well written.
Now with photos you plan on posting....also describe what you are seeing...if they can not be seen in a/the photo...so if you are wanting to save this 1/4 panel...I can guide you in a direction to having a successful repair.
QUESTION: I can see the crack with the yellowish goo in it (that one I know what is going on and what to do with it)....BUT....I also see a crack BEHIND it on the quarter....but can not see it on the inside view of the quarter that you took.
SO...that upper portion of that crack to the right of the yellow goo. Is it stopping on the flange of the rear splash shield???....and NOT going to the REAR side of the splash shield????
The amount of time removing your good quarters so you do not damage them...and then installing them is '??' hours.
Spending the time grinding and carefully and PRECISELY laminating these cracks...ESPECIALLY around the quarters at the wheel well lips is also... '??' hours
Can this quarter be repaired....YES.
Will the repair hold...that is debatable and is ALL up to how well it is repaired.
If I had a good quarter hanging up on the wall. I would not think TWICE and cut this quarter off and bond a new one on. LESS TIME...and better chance of the repair lasting without problems due to the human factor of laminating being removed. And YES...I am VERY GOOD at laminating...but I am also human.
If I had to remove a quarter from a clip and then bond it on again. I guess I would do that also....only because I know what it takes to remove a quarter without damaging it.
If I had no quarter..and the owner or myself did not want to buy it due to $$$$. then I would obviously laminate this all back....but like I wrote about...it will take time. And knowing that I am not a DIY'er...I have to consider my time into everything.
Sorry to be so 'wishy-washy'....but it all depends. But as I wrote...it can be fixed as it is right now...but will take hours and detailed grinding and laminating. Because I am not the type that just 'slaps' resin and fiberglass on a panel and call it done. Those type of repairs is what I get paid to repair when they fail....which can be quite often at times.
QUESTION: I can see the crack with the yellowish goo in it (that one I know what is going on and what to do with it)....BUT....I also see a crack BEHIND it on the quarter....but can not see it on the inside view of the quarter that you took.
SO...that upper portion of that crack to the right of the yellow goo. Is it stopping on the flange of the rear splash shield???....and NOT going to the REAR side of the splash shield????
If you look at the lower area on the second photo, you can see the rear most crack going about 2-3" from the wheel well lip. That portion is a good solid crack. The rest of the rear most crack, going up toward the rear window, is mostly superficial. It does not go through to the inner wheel well and does not seem deep at all. ...and to answer your question, the rear most part of that crack is at the forward edge of the inner splash shield at the top few inches. The rest of it is "in" the wheel well, not on the other side.
Yes, you are being wishy-washy! I think, without being swayed the other way for a solid reason, that I'd prefer to make the repair then have to remove both quarters, and re-attach the other onto this car.
Let me know what the rest of those details do for you
OK...repairs to the quarter will commence. I sent you a PM..so you can call me. Honestly...I do not have hours to go through everything and type it out...so when it is good for you..call me at work. The call will not be that long...but may be when you ask questions.
08-18-2014, 01:12 AM
I think, without being swayed the other way for a solid reason, that I'd prefer to make the repair then have to remove both quarters, and re-attach the other onto this car.