drivable while F/G cures?
07-21-2014, 07:51 PM
#1
Racer
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Location: Gippsland, VIC Australia
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drivable while F/G cures?
I got the bug again.
- I've got a seal kit, body rubbers, new brakes, glass, center console, arm rests, etc on the shelf ready to go.
-ordering suspension rubber kit, AIM & diff pinion seals this week.
-it also needs paint down the line, so I thought I'd have a crack at some fiberglass repairs and go seamless while I'm itchy.
How long does it need to cure?
What stage does the fibreglassing need to be at to be drivable?
Is flex a problem while curing?
- I've got a seal kit, body rubbers, new brakes, glass, center console, arm rests, etc on the shelf ready to go.
-ordering suspension rubber kit, AIM & diff pinion seals this week.
-it also needs paint down the line, so I thought I'd have a crack at some fiberglass repairs and go seamless while I'm itchy.
How long does it need to cure?
What stage does the fibreglassing need to be at to be drivable?
Is flex a problem while curing?
07-22-2014, 06:06 PM
#2
Race Director
I got the bug again.
- I've got a seal kit, body rubbers, new brakes, glass, center console, arm rests, etc on the shelf ready to go.
-ordering suspension rubber kit, AIM & diff pinion seals this week.
-it also needs paint down the line, so I thought I'd have a crack at some fiberglass repairs and go seamless while I'm itchy.
How long does it need to cure?
What stage does the fibreglassing need to be at to be drivable?
Is flex a problem while curing?
- I've got a seal kit, body rubbers, new brakes, glass, center console, arm rests, etc on the shelf ready to go.
-ordering suspension rubber kit, AIM & diff pinion seals this week.
-it also needs paint down the line, so I thought I'd have a crack at some fiberglass repairs and go seamless while I'm itchy.
How long does it need to cure?
What stage does the fibreglassing need to be at to be drivable?
Is flex a problem while curing?
What do you mean by 'go seamless' ????
What do you mean by this:
What stage does the fiberglassing need to be at to be drivable? What is/are your intentions???
And what do you mean by this:
Is flex a problem while curing? Please elaborate.
Also....not that you asked...but I would be really careful if you plan on just replacing the front differential pinion seal. I am sure you know the downside of doing it by just removing the nut, etc.
DUB
07-23-2014, 12:08 AM
#3
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Location: Gippsland, VIC Australia
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thanks for the reply DUB
it's an '80.
by seamless, I mean to fill the seams between the body & front/rear bumpers.
I don't want to mothball the car for an extended time while the fiberglass is curing before paint.
Sorry, I should have said yoke seals, not pinion seal. I will now do a search on pinion seal replacements though.
I've got the tank out now due to a fuel bowser unloading schrapnel into it & packing my fuel filters off & destroying a electric fuel pump
it's an '80.
by seamless, I mean to fill the seams between the body & front/rear bumpers.
I don't want to mothball the car for an extended time while the fiberglass is curing before paint.
Sorry, I should have said yoke seals, not pinion seal. I will now do a search on pinion seal replacements though.
I've got the tank out now due to a fuel bowser unloading schrapnel into it & packing my fuel filters off & destroying a electric fuel pump
07-23-2014, 12:22 AM
#4
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Member Since: Jul 2008
Location: Gippsland, VIC Australia
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thanks for the reply DUB
it's an '80.
by seamless, I mean to fill the seams between the body & front/rear bumpers.
I don't want to mothball the car for an extended time while the fiberglass is curing before paint.
Sorry, I should have said yoke seals, not pinion seal. I will now do a search on pinion seal replacements though.
I've got the tank out now due to a fuel bowser unloading schrapnel into it & packing my fuel filters off & destroying a electric fuel pump........so while i've got extra access I'll replace the batwing rubbers & yoke seals
it's an '80.
by seamless, I mean to fill the seams between the body & front/rear bumpers.
I don't want to mothball the car for an extended time while the fiberglass is curing before paint.
Sorry, I should have said yoke seals, not pinion seal. I will now do a search on pinion seal replacements though.
I've got the tank out now due to a fuel bowser unloading schrapnel into it & packing my fuel filters off & destroying a electric fuel pump........so while i've got extra access I'll replace the batwing rubbers & yoke seals
Last edited by waljr; 07-23-2014 at 06:20 AM.
07-23-2014, 05:36 PM
#5
Race Director
First off...I would ADVISE AGAINST you filling in the seams.
AS you know right now....the rear bumper being able to be removed aids in servicing some areas of the car...such as the rubber hoses at the sending unit. Not only that...the seam can show back up unless you use the correct materials...and even some times it will still come back and you can see a line in TIME.
A while ago I was helping a forum member in Australia...and it was about impossible for him to get the Vette Panel Adhesive that I use. Now you can get the bumpers 'form-fitted' perfectly to the body if you wan to. I do them when I install them and they have a VERY TIGHT seam...but NO GAPS. So I do not know what you have available or what you are using.
As for driving the car when it is raw fiberglass/SMC and waiting for 'things' to cure is something i WOULD NOT ADVISE. You are opening up potential problems that can come back and haunt you later. Sometimes PATIENCE and SELF CONTROL are needed. But it is your car and do what you want....but if you get oil on it or any other containment...you will be on your own. Becasue IT could have been avoided.
DUB
AS you know right now....the rear bumper being able to be removed aids in servicing some areas of the car...such as the rubber hoses at the sending unit. Not only that...the seam can show back up unless you use the correct materials...and even some times it will still come back and you can see a line in TIME.
A while ago I was helping a forum member in Australia...and it was about impossible for him to get the Vette Panel Adhesive that I use. Now you can get the bumpers 'form-fitted' perfectly to the body if you wan to. I do them when I install them and they have a VERY TIGHT seam...but NO GAPS. So I do not know what you have available or what you are using.
As for driving the car when it is raw fiberglass/SMC and waiting for 'things' to cure is something i WOULD NOT ADVISE. You are opening up potential problems that can come back and haunt you later. Sometimes PATIENCE and SELF CONTROL are needed. But it is your car and do what you want....but if you get oil on it or any other containment...you will be on your own. Becasue IT could have been avoided.
DUB
07-23-2014, 09:46 PM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2008
Location: Gippsland, VIC Australia
Posts: 258
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First off...I would ADVISE AGAINST you filling in the seams.
AS you know right now....the rear bumper being able to be removed aids in servicing some areas of the car...such as the rubber hoses at the sending unit. Not only that...the seam can show back up unless you use the correct materials...and even some times it will still come back and you can see a line in TIME.
A while ago I was helping a forum member in Australia...and it was about impossible for him to get the Vette Panel Adhesive that I use. Now you can get the bumpers 'form-fitted' perfectly to the body if you wan to. I do them when I install them and they have a VERY TIGHT seam...but NO GAPS. So I do not know what you have available or what you are using.
As for driving the car when it is raw fiberglass/SMC and waiting for 'things' to cure is something i WOULD NOT ADVISE. You are opening up potential problems that can come back and haunt you later. Sometimes PATIENCE and SELF CONTROL are needed. But it is your car and do what you want....but if you get oil on it or any other containment...you will be on your own. Becasue IT could have been avoided.
DUB
AS you know right now....the rear bumper being able to be removed aids in servicing some areas of the car...such as the rubber hoses at the sending unit. Not only that...the seam can show back up unless you use the correct materials...and even some times it will still come back and you can see a line in TIME.
A while ago I was helping a forum member in Australia...and it was about impossible for him to get the Vette Panel Adhesive that I use. Now you can get the bumpers 'form-fitted' perfectly to the body if you wan to. I do them when I install them and they have a VERY TIGHT seam...but NO GAPS. So I do not know what you have available or what you are using.
As for driving the car when it is raw fiberglass/SMC and waiting for 'things' to cure is something i WOULD NOT ADVISE. You are opening up potential problems that can come back and haunt you later. Sometimes PATIENCE and SELF CONTROL are needed. But it is your car and do what you want....but if you get oil on it or any other containment...you will be on your own. Becasue IT could have been avoided.
DUB