PUNISHER VETTE

Sorry for the long post
I searched and couldn't find a whole lot of info on this other than people using spray cans.

I have all the metal riveted pieces off of my '69 so figured now is the best time to paint the underbody/engine bay before I start putting them back on and hopefully the body back on the frame.

Looking for either a gloss or semi gloss black...not sure what would look best.

Are there more durable type paints that are meant for this type of application that everyone uses?

Would a gelcoat on the underside be a benefit in any way?(good practice for when I do it to the outside right?)

One guys website I follow(The Corvette Restoration Page)
He did:" "
-epoxy sealer/primer to the bare glass(PPG DP40)
-3M lightweight filler to hide imperfections
-high build sanding sealer
-final top coat(epoxy/sealer again)

Now.. this guy took WAY more time making his firewall PERFECT which I don't really plan to go that far. But a nice strong finish would be preferred and since this guy listed everything he used I love that! helps people like me do this kinda thing without years of product research.



I'm making repairs and sealing up some holes I no longer want

PUNISHER VETTE

on a related note:

I did some research almost a year ago about DIY "Lizard Skin" undercoating.

I purchased micro glass beads and an undercoating gun and will definitely be spraying that on the inside but the thought of a rough feeling outside makes me worried.

Harder to clean and might not look as good.. but the heat/sound deadening part is highly appealing.

porchdog

lizardskin goes inside . i use it on every build. for semigloss parts i use spi epoxy reduced .

DUB

I would not apply a gelcoat on the floor boards....but that is just me. In most cases...when all of the steel retainers, plates and brackets are removed. I send them out for powder coating or zinc plating...depending on the severity of rust pitting.

I like keeping the floorboards natural if at all possible, I just like the look. And to protect it and make it really look good...I apply several coats of my mold release wax and hand buff the floorboards to a decent shine/sheen. The wax makes it so most things can not stick...but will take an application or two down the road..depending on what you put the car through. I have a car that I restored that has been out for about 4 years and the floorboards still look very nice when I saw it at a car show.

I like using the DP90LF from PPG...only because I can go down the street and pick it up. I thin it a bit also like 'porchdog' and shoot a few coats with good flash time between coats and the sheen is really nice.

Knowing that you did not ask...but you are aware that several of the holes you are filling in on the firewall are needed for the special rubber firewall plugs that can aid in holding any firewall heat/noise insulating material. I use the Dynamat materials myself....with excellent results.

DUB

PUNISHER VETTE

yeah. I don't plan on using that old insulation. It took up a lot of space and was ugly(even though nobody will see it.)
I'll use the DIY lizard skin and whatever else is necessary compared to all the holes in the firewall.

so DP40 vs 90 is just a color difference? Is that all you spray on an engine area? No finish coat of something else?

What about the wheel well areas? You like keeping them clean too or paint? I guess I'm wanting to paint for practice as well as my body isn't that great looking...even once cleaned up. I'll have all sorts of repairs that might show.

any tips on getting the engine bay cleaned up?
I found Gasoline got the stock undercoating off best but this black paint that's on the engine bay is killing me.
Paint thinner, gas, acetone, even spra stripper/steel wool isn't doing a very good job getting it off. sanding is SUPER easy but... can't get my DA or grinder into many areas..so hand sanding might be my only hope...

DUB

Yes the difference between the DP 40 (gray-green)and DP 90 (black) is the color.

I do, on some jobs apply a paint on top the DP when I am done. But in most cases I have to thinned well and it lays down really well and does not orange peel.

I.....get sick to my stomach...when I read that gasoline was put on a body panel. MORE PROBLEMS can occur from doing this. I would NOT advise doing it any longer.

YES...hand sanding is required to get to the tight spots.

DUB

PUNISHER VETTE

Yeah. I'm sure it won't be good but I tried everything before gas and gas was all that worked.

There was some pretty nasty undercoating.
nothing seemed to work. Spra, sanding, heat/scrape, thinner, ...