Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

few questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-27-2014, 08:58 PM
  #1  
Cutter1
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
Cutter1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: St.Pete FL
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default few questions

Any one hear or comment on adding clear activator to base coat?

What about clear are you guys reducing per sheet or over reducing for smoother flow?
Old 08-28-2014, 06:00 PM
  #2  
DUB
Race Director
 
DUB's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 19,294
Received 2,713 Likes on 2,321 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Cutter1
Any one hear or comment on adding clear activator to base coat?

What about clear are you guys reducing per sheet or over reducing for smoother flow?
YES...Adding a hardener to basecoat is a practice that is done in some refinishing procedures. You need to VERIFY this 'idea' with the manufacturer of the paint you are using.

You are WAY TOO VAGUE in your second question. You have to be more specific...because all clears are different and I use a clear that uses NO thinner/reducer. BUT...'thinking' that adding more thinner/reducer to aid it to flow may be somewhat valid...usually it is much WISER to use a hardener or reducer that is SLOWER...ALLOWING it to flow and not go on dry and lock into place. I have used some clears in the past that when I shot them they looked grainy and 'orange-peely'...but an hour later when I went into the booth the clear had flowed out tremendously. When adding a lot of thinner/reducer to you clear...if you are REALLY PAYING ATTENTION when spraying...you can run into severe 'solvent pop' if you do not apply the coats in the specific 'window' of time required.

You can also run into a bad case of 'die-back'. So the next day the top surfaces of the car look dull and hazey.

I have shot many things in a true candy using my old clear that took a reducer in it....and I thinned it out so much it was as thin as lacquer so I could control it...but I was in the booth the entire time checking it and making sure I did not loose the point when I could apply another coat....then I cleared it the same way with really thinned out urethane clear....and when it was done it looked like it was dipped in baby oil. BUT...I knew what I was doing and know my products I use....so confirming this with the paint manufacturer is HIGHLY recommended.

DUB
Old 08-28-2014, 08:49 PM
  #3  
Cutter1
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
Cutter1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: St.Pete FL
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Well i have some u-pol 20:82 with standard hardener.
Sheet says it can be reduced up to 10% not reduce 10%.
But the primer said it to but it sure sprayed better with it.
I think they do not say to use it to keep voc down.
Have heard people say reduce up to 100% or more
to give it that money shot.I have never shot big pieces
so I will ask first want no mistakes.
Old 08-29-2014, 05:58 PM
  #4  
DUB
Race Director
 
DUB's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 19,294
Received 2,713 Likes on 2,321 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Cutter1
Well i have some u-pol 20:82 with standard hardener.
Sheet says it can be reduced up to 10% not reduce 10%.
But the primer said it to but it sure sprayed better with it.
I think they do not say to use it to keep voc down.
Have heard people say reduce up to 100% or more
to give it that money shot.I have never shot big pieces
so I will ask first want no mistakes.
You need to call them like I wrote...because I can not understand what you wrote. reduced up to 10% not reduce 10%.

Not to be a pain in the backside...but seriously. Proofread what you wrote and make sure it is correctly worded and punctuated because it is hard to read what you wrote.

DUB

Get notified of new replies

To few questions




Quick Reply: few questions



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:46 PM.