Fiberglass Or can it be VPA'd?
09-29-2014, 06:32 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Fiberglass Or can it be VPA'd?
Ding in my door from the spring being broken and it being able to contact the hinge.
My guess is I have to grind it out and glass it...
BUT...i'm hoping maybe I can get away with just grinding it out and VPAing it?
Although it's a tiny area and wouldn't take long to fix so I guess I'm up for whatever you experts suggest!
It's pretty tiny. Not sure if that helps or hurts the use of VPA.
My guess is I have to grind it out and glass it...
BUT...i'm hoping maybe I can get away with just grinding it out and VPAing it?
Although it's a tiny area and wouldn't take long to fix so I guess I'm up for whatever you experts suggest!
It's pretty tiny. Not sure if that helps or hurts the use of VPA.
09-29-2014, 06:49 PM
#2
Race Director
DO NOT let that spot FOOL YOU.
Open up your door all the way....look on the inside where the hinge is and see how close your hinge is to this area that chipped out. This chip is due to a door hyper-extending.
You are looking at the bottom edge of the upper hinge where it attaches to the A-pillar,,,and apply a little pressure to the door when you get it all the way open. You might see it contacting...and more than likely will. THEN...look at the other side....you may be surprised on what you see and find.
It can be VPA'd.....and if you want...you can add a few strands of fiberglass to the VPA when you are laying it in....just make sure it is prepped well...OBVIOUSLY...but you have to modify the hinge or replace it so this will not happen again. I modify the hinges so this will NOT occur.
DUB
Open up your door all the way....look on the inside where the hinge is and see how close your hinge is to this area that chipped out. This chip is due to a door hyper-extending.
You are looking at the bottom edge of the upper hinge where it attaches to the A-pillar,,,and apply a little pressure to the door when you get it all the way open. You might see it contacting...and more than likely will. THEN...look at the other side....you may be surprised on what you see and find.
It can be VPA'd.....and if you want...you can add a few strands of fiberglass to the VPA when you are laying it in....just make sure it is prepped well...OBVIOUSLY...but you have to modify the hinge or replace it so this will not happen again. I modify the hinges so this will NOT occur.
DUB
09-29-2014, 06:59 PM
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
I took these pictures before I took the doors off.
The spring in the door had broken in half and the previous owner had used a piece of hose to prevent it from getting any worse.
At the time the hose had slid forward and was no longer doing anything(if it had done anything to begin with). Although I haven't fixed the spring yet and put the door back on to test but I imagine that was the bulk of my problem.
How do you modify the hinge if i have to do that?
The spring in the door had broken in half and the previous owner had used a piece of hose to prevent it from getting any worse.
At the time the hose had slid forward and was no longer doing anything(if it had done anything to begin with). Although I haven't fixed the spring yet and put the door back on to test but I imagine that was the bulk of my problem.
How do you modify the hinge if i have to do that?
09-30-2014, 06:32 PM
#4
Race Director
The broken spring is questionable that it caused the chip. I am betting on that if you get the door back on...the inner steel portion of the door shell will be contacting the hinge like I mentioned previously. I am BANKING on it. BUT then again...I could be wrong...but I doubt it.
OUCH...you pulled the door off by pulling the hinge from the hinge post??? MAN are you 'gutsy'. OBVIOUSLY....you kept a good record on how many shims were used to shim the hinges.
If you still have my phone number...call me and I will walk you through how to modify the hinge(s). IF not...PM me and I will give it to you. Having access to a welder is needed and a square file or grinder. Having the hinge back on the post is NOT required. BUT it does make it easier so when you use level and or protractor. ..you get the hinges as even as possible.
AND...in some cases..Beacseu I run into the bad higne issue very often....when I 'thought' that I could get away from doing the hinge modification and installed a new hinge...It helped... but not that much due to the steel hinge mounting section of the door itself was tweaked due to this hyper-extension...which causes me to modify the hinge to save the door from future damage....because trying to tweak the inner steel portion of the door itself...is nerve-racking and very hard to do. I have not yet built a jig for this process.
DUB
OUCH...you pulled the door off by pulling the hinge from the hinge post??? MAN are you 'gutsy'. OBVIOUSLY....you kept a good record on how many shims were used to shim the hinges.
If you still have my phone number...call me and I will walk you through how to modify the hinge(s). IF not...PM me and I will give it to you. Having access to a welder is needed and a square file or grinder. Having the hinge back on the post is NOT required. BUT it does make it easier so when you use level and or protractor. ..you get the hinges as even as possible.
AND...in some cases..Beacseu I run into the bad higne issue very often....when I 'thought' that I could get away from doing the hinge modification and installed a new hinge...It helped... but not that much due to the steel hinge mounting section of the door itself was tweaked due to this hyper-extension...which causes me to modify the hinge to save the door from future damage....because trying to tweak the inner steel portion of the door itself...is nerve-racking and very hard to do. I have not yet built a jig for this process.
DUB
10-01-2014, 09:46 AM
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
Yeah. I baggied all the shims and labeled which hindge they came from.
I also drilled a guide hole though hindge/frame so I can at least get the bottom section back on in the exact spot.
I guess I just assumed that was where everyone was unbolting the doors from... seemed easier than the other way...
I still have your number. when I get back to the door section of my project, which will be soon, I'll give you a ring!
I also drilled a guide hole though hindge/frame so I can at least get the bottom section back on in the exact spot.
I guess I just assumed that was where everyone was unbolting the doors from... seemed easier than the other way...
I still have your number. when I get back to the door section of my project, which will be soon, I'll give you a ring!
10-01-2014, 06:01 PM
#6
Race Director
Yeah. I baggied all the shims and labeled which hindge they came from.
I also drilled a guide hole though hindge/frame so I can at least get the bottom section back on in the exact spot.
I guess I just assumed that was where everyone was unbolting the doors from... seemed easier than the other way...
I still have your number. when I get back to the door section of my project, which will be soon, I'll give you a ring!
I also drilled a guide hole though hindge/frame so I can at least get the bottom section back on in the exact spot.
I guess I just assumed that was where everyone was unbolting the doors from... seemed easier than the other way...
I still have your number. when I get back to the door section of my project, which will be soon, I'll give you a ring!
DUB