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I am working on repairing the decklid on my 1965 Convertible. It seems that Bubba originally was going to put in a rollbar and then some time later "repaired" (not sure you can call it that) it. As you can see in the pictures (before and after), the repair was done really badly. When I went to remove the repair it was done so badly the piece of fiberglass in the hole dropped out as one piece; thank goodness.
My question is - Which side do I put the cardboard/saran wrap first?
My question is - Which side do I put the cardboard/saran wrap first?
Come on now....YOU know the answer to your question.
What side of this panel is the easiest to grind/block flat????
If you said the outside...you are correct.....BUT...it comes at a cost. Assuming you want this repaired so it is really hard dot tell.
The cost is TIME and making ABSOLUTELY SURE that you have the panel prepped and tapered so when you go and laminate it from the outside......that HOW YOU make the backing so you can laminate is critical. I use a thermo stable adhesive backed sheet wax that I can apply and seal to a surface so it will not bleed out resin all over the place on the other side of the panel. I spends a lot of time making sure that I get my support where I want it so when I apply my first layer of matt and resin...when i removing my backing material...it is wickedly close to what I want so I am not having to spend hours correcting a problem due to not spending enough time getting the set-up correct FIRST.
Even if that means that I apply layer of Vette Panel Adhesive on my sheet wax so when it cures...when I flip the deck lid over and begin laminating...when I press down on the area I am filling in...it is solid....BUT I am not pressing too hard so my VPA does not fall off.
Trust me..only commenting form experience...spending the time to get the set-up the very best you can will pay off.
I would stop at 3 layers of ounce and a half fiberglass matt. IF you do not do a solid backing...I would stop at two layers...let it cure in a day then grind it and do it some more until you get it to be high enough so you can then grind it down and skim coat it with Vette Panel Adhesive.
Do not be to narrow on your taper on the top surface...about an inch+ should be more than fine...and tapering it down to a razors edge on the backside of the panel...so when you have it set-up...if done correctly...when you remove your backing material...the lamination will be flush and require very little effort to correct.
I am doubtful that you are worried about the coarse texture of the fiberglass where you have to fill in. There is a way to get that back in but that takes a step or two before you start to pull a imprint mold off of another area and use it as your backing material.
Come on now....YOU know the answer to your question.
What side of this panel is the easiest to grind/block flat????
If you said the outside...you are correct.....BUT...it comes at a cost. Assuming you want this repaired so it is really hard dot tell.
The cost is TIME and making ABSOLUTELY SURE that you have the panel prepped and tapered so when you go and laminate it from the outside......that HOW YOU make the backing so you can laminate is critical. I use a thermo stable adhesive backed sheet wax that I can apply and seal to a surface so it will not bleed out resin all over the place on the other side of the panel. I spends a lot of time making sure that I get my support where I want it so when I apply my first layer of matt and resin...when i removing my backing material...it is wickedly close to what I want so I am not having to spend hours correcting a problem due to not spending enough time getting the set-up correct FIRST.
Even if that means that I apply layer of Vette Panel Adhesive on my sheet wax so when it cures...when I flip the deck lid over and begin laminating...when I press down on the area I am filling in...it is solid....BUT I am not pressing too hard so my VPA does not fall off.
Trust me..only commenting form experience...spending the time to get the set-up the very best you can will pay off.
I would stop at 3 layers of ounce and a half fiberglass matt. IF you do not do a solid backing...I would stop at two layers...let it cure in a day then grind it and do it some more until you get it to be high enough so you can then grind it down and skim coat it with Vette Panel Adhesive.
Do not be to narrow on your taper on the top surface...about an inch+ should be more than fine...and tapering it down to a razors edge on the backside of the panel...so when you have it set-up...if done correctly...when you remove your backing material...the lamination will be flush and require very little effort to correct.
I am doubtful that you are worried about the coarse texture of the fiberglass where you have to fill in. There is a way to get that back in but that takes a step or two before you start to pull a imprint mold off of another area and use it as your backing material.
DUB
Hey Dub - excellent advice as usual. Do you have a brand you prefer when it comes to thermo stable adhesive backed sheet wax?
Also I am concerned about the ridges on the inside and making sure the edges are built properly. Just to reiterate - I need to taper the edges on both sides?
Just to reiterate - I need to taper the edges on both sides?
NO. Grind from teh otuisde....leaving teh inside alone. SO,,,when teh sheet wax is applied to teh undersdie....and then it is laminated.....when teh wax is removed....it is basically flat...which is UP TO YOU on how well you get teh set-up proir to laminating.
this is what I use. Mind you...it is adhesive backed. Sometimes I will remove the adhesive. So..as like I write MANY TIMES. You can take a small section...adhesive side up...because that is what your resin will touch....apply some matt and resin and see what happens...and at the same time....remove the adhesive on another small section....and laminate it. This way..when you cut your sheet wax...which you can get in many thicknesses....you can determine how much adhesive to leave on the sheet wax so it will s =tick to the deck lid...and where you need to remove it...if you find that works best.
Also...using a some good modeling clay can CAREFULLY be used to seal any voids where if you are concerned about the resin bleeding through...you can stop it. JUST REMEMBER....you are working in reverse....so any high bumps of clay will make a low spot on the other side.
If you plan on using a modeling clay...TEST IT ALSO.....some clays are not that great in the thermo-stable department....and when you remove your sheet wax/clay. The modeling clay can actually be gooey.
NO. Grind from teh otuisde....leaving teh inside alone. SO,,,when teh sheet wax is applied to teh undersdie....and then it is laminated.....when teh wax is removed....it is basically flat...which is UP TO YOU on how well you get teh set-up proir to laminating.
this is what I use. Mind you...it is adhesive backed. Sometimes I will remove the adhesive. So..as like I write MANY TIMES. You can take a small section...adhesive side up...because that is what your resin will touch....apply some matt and resin and see what happens...and at the same time....remove the adhesive on another small section....and laminate it. This way..when you cut your sheet wax...which you can get in many thicknesses....you can determine how much adhesive to leave on the sheet wax so it will s =tick to the deck lid...and where you need to remove it...if you find that works best.
Also...using a some good modeling clay can CAREFULLY be used to seal any voids where if you are concerned about the resin bleeding through...you can stop it. JUST REMEMBER....you are working in reverse....so any high bumps of clay will make a low spot on the other side.
If you plan on using a modeling clay...TEST IT ALSO.....some clays are not that great in the thermo-stable department....and when you remove your sheet wax/clay. The modeling clay can actually be gooey.
Thanks Dub for taking the time to make such detailed responses; it is appreciated. Another question - what grit sandpaper should I use to rough up the surface I am applying the resin/cloth to?
Thanks Dub for taking the time to make such detailed responses; it is appreciated. Another question - what grit sandpaper should I use to rough up the surface I am applying the resin/cloth to?
24 or 36 grit on a 3M Rol-loc disc. the speed of grinding is also important...the slower you let it turn the rougher it can come out.....versus letting your air tool spin at 8000 rpm's.
24 or 36 grit on a 3M Rol-loc disc. the speed of grinding is also important...the slower you let it turn the rougher it can come out.....versus letting your air tool spin at 8000 rpm's.
DUB
Well I did the fiberglassing and used VPA over the repair and I have to say it came out really well. DUB is absolutely right (no surprise); VPA is a really good body filler. Here are few shots of the repairs to the decklid shown above.
GREAT JOB....BUT...if you were working on this at my shop. It would be IMPERATIVE that any exposed fiberglass/resin that was hand applied...would have to be slightly ground down and then skim coat the VPA on it so when it was blocked out....you would NOT SEE ANY hand laid fiberglass/resin AT ALL. There is a reason for that. And trust me....it can come back and bite you in the backside if you do not do it. ESPECIALLY with this being a top surface. It makes it even more important.
Like I wrote ...It does look GREAT...but I could not sit by and not mention what I see ...knowing that I am REALLY good at laminating...and I know I would have to skim coat over the entire area and not have any exposed hand laid material that I applied seen when the blocking was completed.
UNLESS you actually vacuum bagged the repair when laminating it to pull all the air of your lamination.
I can explain WHY I wrote what I did if you need me to. But trust me....IF you skip this advice...I honestly hope it does not come back on you.
GREAT JOB....BUT...if you were working on this at my shop. It would be IMPERATIVE that any exposed fiberglass/resin that was hand applied...would have to be slightly ground down and then skim coat the VPA on it so when it was blocked out....you would NOT SEE ANY hand laid fiberglass/resin AT ALL. There is a reason for that. And trust me....it can come back and bite you in the backside if you do not do it. ESPECIALLY with this being a top surface. It makes it even more important.
Like I wrote ...It does look GREAT...but I could not sit by and not mention what I see ...knowing that I am REALLY good at laminating...and I know I would have to skim coat over the entire area and not have any exposed hand laid material that I applied seen when the blocking was completed.
UNLESS you actually vacuum bagged the repair when laminating it to pull all the air of your lamination.
I can explain WHY I wrote what I did if you need me to. But trust me....IF you skip this advice...I honestly hope it does not come back on you.
DUB
I will grind it down and put more VPA on it. The VPA isn't cheap and I have to get better at spreading it but these are my first repairs and I will know better next time.
No. Those are the stock holes. Unless*you are talking about these small holes or divots in the filler
I have never seen those holes in the top surface towards the front edge. I know there are holes on the front edge for the trim that gets screwed to it...BUT not on the top surface. NEVER Seen that before.
I honestly do not think they are supposed to be there.
I have never seen those holes in the top surface towards the front edge. I know there are holes on the front edge for the trim that gets screwed to it...BUT not on the top surface. NEVER Seen that before.
I honestly do not think they are supposed to be there.
What went there????????????????
DUB
Hmmm.... sadly the trim that goes on the end of the decklid was missing when I bought the car. I assumed the holes were for that. Bubba strikes again? Does someone have pictures of what those holes should look like?
It looks like your deck lid did not have that option...if it came as an option. I do not have my books here at home. If you look on the inside of the front edge on the underside and see no holes...then it was never drilled for the trim.
It looks like your deck lid did not have that option...if it came as an option. I do not have my books here at home. If you look on the inside of the front edge on the underside and see no holes...then it was never drilled for the trim.
DUB
My decklid has holes on the front and it has the holes on the top. I looked at a number of eBay listings for used decklids and it appears that both sets of holes are supposed to be there. Can someone independently verify my observations please?
Last edited by PierreOlivier; 10-23-2014 at 12:03 PM.
In all my years...I have never had a n mid-year convertible have these holes on the top.
Hopefully someone will post a photo. OR...look at completed cars and see. I know that the holes in the front vertical edge are there for the vinyl trim piece...but I have never seen anything on the top surface...and the reason being I spend a lot of time to make sure that radius is correct and not flat spotted.
If you have an assembly manual...flip through it and see. I HONESTLY do not think they are supposed to be there.
Maybe post it in the NCRS section...I am sure you will get confirmation there....they would know for sure.
I can check with the NCRS bunch. Here was another decklid for sale on eBay that has the two sets of holes. I know 2 wrongs don't make it right but I swear I have seen that on other decklids for sale. It does note on this one that it has the two sets of holes for snaps on a cover. Perhaps mine had a 3rd party cover; I don't believe covers were an option.
I am sticking with what I think is correct...and NO holes on the top. They may be an aftermarket 'something or other' but not factory...that is for sue...I swear by it.
That e-bay deck lid has been drilled on...I would bet on it.
I am sticking with what I think is correct...and NO holes on the top. They may be an aftermarket 'something or other' but not factory...that is for sue...I swear by it.
That e-bay deck lid has been drilled on...I would bet on it.
DUB
I am pretty sure you are right. Oh well just a "few" more repairs among 100's.
10-05-2014, 11:29 PM
Next "Bubba" Repair
Another question - what grit sandpaper should I use to rough up the surface I am applying the resin/cloth to?
I will grind it down and put more VPA on it. 
The VPA isn't cheap and I have to get better at spreading it but these are my first repairs and I will know better next time. 
