Pin Holes and Orange Peel
10-06-2014, 06:27 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Pin Holes and Orange Peel
Well my first attempt at spraying did not turn out so good. Thank God its only primer, to much orange peel and I noticed some pin holes where the primer looks like it didn't adhere very well. I think the problem is with my prep I used denatured alcohal instead of wax and grease remover and I think my fan pattern was to wide, the weather here isn't the best for painting. Still I learned a lot and will continue to practice before I spray the base coat...
10-07-2014, 06:08 PM
#2
Race Director
If you are wiping your bare body. I WOULD NOT USE wax and grease remover. That is to be used on NON-porous substrates. Fiberglass and SMC DO NOT fall into that category. And NEVER on a raw urethane bumper.
EVERYTHING has to do with how CLEAN are you hands ( unless you are wearing CLEAN gloves)....then what type of wiper are you using when you wipe the panel....and also....the wipers that you use...when you get done with a section...STOP...and throw it away and get a fresh wiping towel.
So...if I were wiping your bare hood. I would wipe the ACETONE ( if I had to wipe it due to suspected surface contamination...MOST cases I do not wipe it down with a solvent prior to priming...just blow and tack it off with moisture free compressed air).
But if I had to...I would wipe on the acetone in a 1 foot square section and then immediately wipe it off with w fresh clean wiper....throw that wipe-off wiper away and repeat, WHY would I do that. BECAUSE....I do not want to lift off and remove an oil based containment and then use the SAME CONTAMINATED WIPER that JUST TOOK IT OFF...and then spread it to another area. Wipers are cheap...and if a person is that budget minded...well...get over it....OR PAY THE PRICE in surface problems...which cost more than wipers.
This application removal process of wiping is carried to when you wipe down your primer with WAX and GREASE remover. Except that you can increase the area you apply the wax and grease remover on because it will not flash off as fast as acetone would.
And the funny thing is....when the solvents dry out of your wipers...you can use them to wipe off your greasy hands or wipe up spills....because they will look clean. No need to waste something that can be used for a real dirty job. Stretching your dollars.
OBVIOUSLY...when using any solvent...use COMMON SENSE and NO types of ignition sources and also proper air movement/ventilation. I am not responsible for someone being STUPID.
KEEP practicing...TRUST ME...it gets better every time.
DUB
EVERYTHING has to do with how CLEAN are you hands ( unless you are wearing CLEAN gloves)....then what type of wiper are you using when you wipe the panel....and also....the wipers that you use...when you get done with a section...STOP...and throw it away and get a fresh wiping towel.
So...if I were wiping your bare hood. I would wipe the ACETONE ( if I had to wipe it due to suspected surface contamination...MOST cases I do not wipe it down with a solvent prior to priming...just blow and tack it off with moisture free compressed air).
But if I had to...I would wipe on the acetone in a 1 foot square section and then immediately wipe it off with w fresh clean wiper....throw that wipe-off wiper away and repeat, WHY would I do that. BECAUSE....I do not want to lift off and remove an oil based containment and then use the SAME CONTAMINATED WIPER that JUST TOOK IT OFF...and then spread it to another area. Wipers are cheap...and if a person is that budget minded...well...get over it....OR PAY THE PRICE in surface problems...which cost more than wipers.
This application removal process of wiping is carried to when you wipe down your primer with WAX and GREASE remover. Except that you can increase the area you apply the wax and grease remover on because it will not flash off as fast as acetone would.
And the funny thing is....when the solvents dry out of your wipers...you can use them to wipe off your greasy hands or wipe up spills....because they will look clean. No need to waste something that can be used for a real dirty job. Stretching your dollars.
OBVIOUSLY...when using any solvent...use COMMON SENSE and NO types of ignition sources and also proper air movement/ventilation. I am not responsible for someone being STUPID.
KEEP practicing...TRUST ME...it gets better every time.
DUB
10-07-2014, 08:37 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks Dub,
I will follow your advice and use acetone for wiping, I'm using white lint free towels for wipers. At the moment I'm worried about the weather the temps are in the low 60's and the humidity is around 60 percent. I don't know but it seems like that could be too high to spray with good results. I'm trying to get this car primer before the end of the week.
I will follow your advice and use acetone for wiping, I'm using white lint free towels for wipers. At the moment I'm worried about the weather the temps are in the low 60's and the humidity is around 60 percent. I don't know but it seems like that could be too high to spray with good results. I'm trying to get this car primer before the end of the week.
If you are wiping your bare body. I WOULD NOT USE wax and grease remover. That is to be used on NON-porous substrates. Fiberglass and SMC DO NOT fall into that category. And NEVER on a raw urethane bumper.
EVERYTHING has to do with how CLEAN are you hands ( unless you are wearing CLEAN gloves)....then what type of wiper are you using when you wipe the panel....and also....the wipers that you use...when you get done with a section...STOP...and throw it away and get a fresh wiping towel.
So...if I were wiping your bare hood. I would wipe the ACETONE ( if I had to wipe it due to suspected surface contamination...MOST cases I do not wipe it down with a solvent prior to priming...just blow and tack it off with moisture free compressed air).
But if I had to...I would wipe on the acetone in a 1 foot square section and then immediately wipe it off with w fresh clean wiper....throw that wipe-off wiper away and repeat, WHY would I do that. BECAUSE....I do not want to lift off and remove an oil based containment and then use the SAME CONTAMINATED WIPER that JUST TOOK IT OFF...and then spread it to another area. Wipers are cheap...and if a person is that budget minded...well...get over it....OR PAY THE PRICE in surface problems...which cost more than wipers.
This application removal process of wiping is carried to when you wipe down your primer with WAX and GREASE remover. Except that you can increase the area you apply the wax and grease remover on because it will not flash off as fast as acetone would.
And the funny thing is....when the solvents dry out of your wipers...you can use them to wipe off your greasy hands or wipe up spills....because they will look clean. No need to waste something that can be used for a real dirty job. Stretching your dollars.
OBVIOUSLY...when using any solvent...use COMMON SENSE and NO types of ignition sources and also proper air movement/ventilation. I am not responsible for someone being STUPID.
KEEP practicing...TRUST ME...it gets better every time.
DUB
EVERYTHING has to do with how CLEAN are you hands ( unless you are wearing CLEAN gloves)....then what type of wiper are you using when you wipe the panel....and also....the wipers that you use...when you get done with a section...STOP...and throw it away and get a fresh wiping towel.
So...if I were wiping your bare hood. I would wipe the ACETONE ( if I had to wipe it due to suspected surface contamination...MOST cases I do not wipe it down with a solvent prior to priming...just blow and tack it off with moisture free compressed air).
But if I had to...I would wipe on the acetone in a 1 foot square section and then immediately wipe it off with w fresh clean wiper....throw that wipe-off wiper away and repeat, WHY would I do that. BECAUSE....I do not want to lift off and remove an oil based containment and then use the SAME CONTAMINATED WIPER that JUST TOOK IT OFF...and then spread it to another area. Wipers are cheap...and if a person is that budget minded...well...get over it....OR PAY THE PRICE in surface problems...which cost more than wipers.
This application removal process of wiping is carried to when you wipe down your primer with WAX and GREASE remover. Except that you can increase the area you apply the wax and grease remover on because it will not flash off as fast as acetone would.
And the funny thing is....when the solvents dry out of your wipers...you can use them to wipe off your greasy hands or wipe up spills....because they will look clean. No need to waste something that can be used for a real dirty job. Stretching your dollars.
OBVIOUSLY...when using any solvent...use COMMON SENSE and NO types of ignition sources and also proper air movement/ventilation. I am not responsible for someone being STUPID.
KEEP practicing...TRUST ME...it gets better every time.
DUB
10-08-2014, 05:32 PM
#4
Race Director
Your towels should work...just be careful if the surface is rough.
AS for the temps....I have shot in a lot worse when I was forced to do so. The temps do not bother me....and I know if I were shooting in high humidity...like it often times is down here in the Carolina's...I KNOW by now what reducer to use to slow down my paint so it does not flash off too fast and blush.
Sometimes I REALLY SLOW DOWN my paint so if I am shooting a wicked red...it comes out RED.....and very rich looking. I do keep an eye on the weather....and see if I can wait a day or two.....but some times....I have to do what I have to do even if that means I have to heat the air coming into the booth. But then again I have a very good air dry system for my air being compressed.
DUB
AS for the temps....I have shot in a lot worse when I was forced to do so. The temps do not bother me....and I know if I were shooting in high humidity...like it often times is down here in the Carolina's...I KNOW by now what reducer to use to slow down my paint so it does not flash off too fast and blush.
Sometimes I REALLY SLOW DOWN my paint so if I am shooting a wicked red...it comes out RED.....and very rich looking. I do keep an eye on the weather....and see if I can wait a day or two.....but some times....I have to do what I have to do even if that means I have to heat the air coming into the booth. But then again I have a very good air dry system for my air being compressed.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 10-08-2014 at 05:39 PM.
10-08-2014, 06:21 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well it went much better today. I used the acetone to wipe down the car and the primer seem to flow better. I did not have a single pin hole and just a little orange peel which is probably me not setting the gun correctly. All in all it came out nice, seems sad that I'm going to sand most of it back off. Thanks to Dub for his helpful suggestions.
10-09-2014, 06:08 PM
#6
Race Director
10-09-2014, 07:33 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yes that is correct, I blocked the hood today and was surprise that I didn't have to take as much off as I thought so I'm happy about that. Maybe the rest of the car will be the same way.
10-10-2014, 05:57 PM
#8
Race Director
hopefully you are not using you primer in place of body filler. Excessive film build of some primers is not a good idea....that is why body fillers are made.
Hopefully it turns out fine.
DUB
Hopefully it turns out fine.
DUB
10-10-2014, 06:03 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks DUB, I used body filler to level out the low spots, I sprayed the hood again today it came out really nice. I think I finally have learned to use a spray gun.
10-11-2014, 06:06 PM
#10
Race Director
Now...odd as it may seem. Feeling comfortable when you prime is VERY IMPORTANT.
Because the techniques you use and employ when priming will transfer over to when you apply the paint and clear. Like I would tell the guys I have trained in the past....if you can not master priming a car perfectly....do not even think that you are ready to apply paint and clear. It is ALL ABOUT BEING CONSISTENT!!!!!
Back in the day... when I used to apply a thinned mix of red-oxide lacquer primer as a guide coat for block sanding. I would let the guys do that. Because like they had seen many times. You know it can be done...because you can see the cars that I guide coat are even and NOT blotchy. AND if they could not perfectly apply an even layer on the body....they were not ready. Because...once you paint a car you are now going to feel that you are SUPERMAN and can shoot a Candy color( like many of them did think)....and if you can not master an even consistent layer of guide coat primer....what makes you think that you can shoot a Candy color perfectly. YEAH...I was hard A$$ (and still am)...but I did train several guys who are REALLY good.
You are well on your way to being successful in this endeavor.
DUB
Because the techniques you use and employ when priming will transfer over to when you apply the paint and clear. Like I would tell the guys I have trained in the past....if you can not master priming a car perfectly....do not even think that you are ready to apply paint and clear. It is ALL ABOUT BEING CONSISTENT!!!!!
Back in the day... when I used to apply a thinned mix of red-oxide lacquer primer as a guide coat for block sanding. I would let the guys do that. Because like they had seen many times. You know it can be done...because you can see the cars that I guide coat are even and NOT blotchy. AND if they could not perfectly apply an even layer on the body....they were not ready. Because...once you paint a car you are now going to feel that you are SUPERMAN and can shoot a Candy color( like many of them did think)....and if you can not master an even consistent layer of guide coat primer....what makes you think that you can shoot a Candy color perfectly. YEAH...I was hard A$$ (and still am)...but I did train several guys who are REALLY good.
You are well on your way to being successful in this endeavor.
DUB