SB64

I just completed removing my one piece front clip from my 69. I would like to know how I should go about cleaning off the old adhesive and prepping for the new clip.
Thank You
Roger

porchdog

the old bonding agent can be removed with a 3 in rolox fiber disc

DUB

Also..are you planning on putting a one-piece hand laid front clip on...or another press-molded one on???? It 'kinda' makes a difference.

DO yourself a BIG favor and in very small spots...about 1/4" wide.....DO NOT grind all the adhesive off and down to the flange. Especially where you see GM got the adhesive really thick. You can always grind it down if needed...but what this does is makes s shim so the panel will stop...so when setting up the new panel.....you do not have to figure out the trick needed to create a stop....because the panel is going in too far.

ALSO...NOW is the time to address the area of the firewall in the upper/outer corners....where it will leak water. Due to having the front clip off...now is the BEST time to address this area.....unless you have not evidence of water leaking in the hinge posts.

DUB

SB64

Hi Dub, I will be putting on an original front clip from my donor 69. Good idea on checking on any leak areas in the firewall.
Thanks
Roger

DUB

I hope you are not planning on bonding the front clip on when the body is still on this dolly.

DUB

SB64

Hey Dub, NO I will be putting the body back on the chassis after a few more things that need to be done. I believe I read that in another post where you mentioned that it was very important to have the body on the chassis when installing the front clip. I was thinking of using Evercoat #994 SMC Panel Adhesive, thoughts!!

DUB

WHEW!!!!

YES...I would use the Evercoat's 994 myself. And if you are going to be doing this when it is cool/cold...that is kinda good so you do not have to worry about the 994 hardening up too fast before you get the clip on and clamped in place.

DUB

SB64

Okay Dub, you set me up for my next question and that was about the clamping process. What kind of clamps and how many. I am thinking along the top where the door meets, bottom and maybe across the support strip running across by the wiper tray. Need some help on this. Just thought of something Dub. To repair the driver side cowl panel which has some bad cracks. Could I cut out from the donor what I need and overlay it with maybe a thin strip of cloth and resin around the out side edge or even adhesive since it could be on the inside under the carpet. That would give me an original look from the engine compartment where you really don't see to much either. What do ya think?
Thank you
R

SB64

Also planned on using the SEM Hot Rod Black for the engine compartment and inner fenders. Has a nice matte finish, not to dull and not to shiny. It also appears that I will have to paint the firewall before I put ion the chassis since the engine is installed already. Then do the inner fenders before I mount it to the car. I guess then touchup????
R

DUB

I need to see photos of the cracks that you are asking about.

AS for the clamping method you choose to sue. I use a ratchet strap and boards from one side to the other. And a few clamps at the bottom of the fenders by the door hinge post area. I have thin clamps for the top of the cowl area...and I usually have them set positions so when I do a test fit of the wiper door....if it is out (which it usually is out)...the clamps do not get in the way.

Getting the front clip set and test fit...and the clamping method will take the most time of all.

You may need to do a touch up on the inner skirts...depending on if they get damaged in the future. MAKE NO MISTAKE...if you are going to paint stuff with 'whatever'...and think that a touch up is going to occur in the future....make sure your prep initially is correct. Because going in and sanding and breaking through a layer or too can open up a serious problem that can grow on you when you go to spot in the paint....especially if the surface was not prepped well for the paint you plan to apply.

DUB

SB64

Hey Dub, that is some great information with the straps and wood. As a retired cabinet maker I have plenty of wood. Below are 2 pictures of the cracks. I am hoping that I can use minimal materials instead of just gobbing cloth and resin. You know a neat job. I will do my beast to prep because like with cabinets the finish relies on proper sanding and prepping.
Thank you so much for your help
Roger

DUB

In photo 1: I see the crack to the left of your finger...and then I see some more cracks further over to the left...below the headlight dimmer switch mount area.

In photo 2: I really can not see a crack due to all the old dark adhesive. I am sure it is there.

In both scenarios..I would grind it down from the inside and laminate it form the inside.

If when tapering out the cracks the crack gets wider...do not worry. if you clean the outside firewall area real good so masking tape can stick to it...you can laminate them up and not have a lot of resin ooze out on the outside of the firewall.

IF when you prep it...the panels start having a mind of there own and move on you. You can take very small amounts of Vette Panel Adhesive and join them back together to get them to hold...them prep the VPA so you can laminate on it.

DUB

SB64

Would you suggest cutting like 2"or 3" wide strips of laminate to cover each crack or one big piece. Any special brand of cloth and resin that works the best.

DUB

There is NO SET rule on how wide you cut your strips....even if they are in the shape of a strip. It all depends on the repair area and how you prep it and so on. Sometimes I HAVE TO apply strands individually due to the complex curves I am trying to recreate.

I prefer to tear my fiberglass mat so it has a frayed edge so it lays down and can be hidden easier....VERSUS.... cutting the mat with scissors and it show as a distinctive edge. I will cut my mat with scissors...but I know where and when to do so.

Depending on complex curves and bends...it may require the fiberglass mat being 'filleted' so it is not as thick...thus this thinner piece can conform easier and lay down.

I would get ounce and a half fiberglass mat. And as for resin...You can get the polyester resin that Evercoat sells with the Corvette on the can and use it. JUST be aware...that if you follow the mixing ratios on the can it will set up faster than I prefer. I like 24 hours to let it cure...not a few hours. So...MIX IT...lay it out and TEST IT and see. Not adding a few drops can change the cure time.

Depending on how you prep the area and so on....will determine on how you tear your mat and apply it. If you are wanting it to not be detected...or a super huge bulge...then it is all up to you. So poor prep work can result in a poor lamination. Common sense comes into play here. ALSO...keep in mind that you do NOT want to slap so much resin in the repair....because the resin is NOT the guiding force that keeps the repair strong and solid ...it is the correct balance of fiberglass mat and resin that makes the repair strong.

Too much resin...makes a weak repair...too little resin...you have dry fiberglass and that is NO GOOD either. So it is getting the balance right and NOT smothering the repair with resin and making it look like a bar top with quarters buried in the polyurethane.

DUB

SB64

I went ahead to day and applied my evercoat resin with mating as suggested. I think it all went well. There are 2 layers of mating so far. I was thinking of doing the firewall side tomorrow but not sure . Here is what I did.










What do you think Dub?? Pictures out of order. Bottom picture shows 2 spot. 1st picture shows the 3rd spot added after awhile with a small brace on the out side.

DUB

LOOKS GOOD.....REALLY GOOD.

The trick...to keep you from having to laminate the firewall side....is that when you were prepping the inside....if you ground the fiberglass down and back really good and got the crack to slightly open up and then laminate it like you did. IF the original fiberglass was ground away and you put new fiberglass in its place...then there should have been only a really thin layer of original glass remaining by the crack. IF you did it that way...you can lightly grind and prep the firewall side and then apply alyer of Vette Panel Adhesive because about 90%+ of the bad fiberglass has already been removed and replaced.

Did that make sense????

SO...no need to grind into your fresh laminated fiberglass you applied if it is literally right behind that thin layer of original fiberglass you left so you have something to laminate on....and have to laminate on the firewall side.

NOW if you barely ground out and away the fiberglass from the crack and left a lot of original fiberglass right near the crack...then you have to....but be CAREFUL...because if you do not have enough on the inside....you can grind through what you just applied.

DUB

SB64

Hi DUB and thanks for the kind words, I really never used any of these materials before. I did go ahead and do the firewall side and I ripped the matting instead of cutting it (at least on the one side you could see). That is a slick trick because it really looks original. Had I read your post before hand which by the way does make a lot of sense. I basically would have had just a small seam line to lightly sand and it would have been very low profile. I think though it will be okay overall and maybe a little stronger, who knows.
Thank you so much for your help and patience. You answer a tremendous amount of posts for the forum. A very knowledgeable person.
Roger
1st Picture is lightly sanded and finished, pretty smooth no transition bumps.
2nd firewall side

DUB

VERY NICE!!!! Not too wet. PERFECT!

Before you know it...it will become second nature.

Laminating seems like it is no big deal...and it is not...but getting it RIGHT ...is something else entirely. How do I know this...because of all the poor repairs that I have ripped out and seen that they did not know what they were doing.

DUB

SB64

Thanks Dub could not have done it without your help.
Roger


Is this what venders are calling a plenum extension, if so I will buy a new one, if not then I have some work in front of me. Let me know.

DUB

YEAH...that extension is pretty wiped out. It can be repaired and made ...but if a panel is available...that may be the fastest way to get this bonding area repaired.

Now if this extension panel is $1000.00....I would fix this one....because I could spend a lot of time on this before I reached $1000 of my time. If this panel is $60.00.....I would replace it or even section it in if needed.

Knowing you know about laminating now and I do not know if you have used Vette Panel Adhesive yet...sectioning in this panel ( if needed) can be done. Normally I will install a panel as it was designed. But if I can cut a new panel ( NEVER an exterior panel)...section it to part of the existing panel that is still solid...and know that where I bond it I am actually making it stronger...and NOT weaker...I will do so....unless it is in a area that it can easily be seen and possibly judged.

DUB