Question on Ecklers restoration formula as body filler
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Question on Ecklers restoration formula as body filler
On my 72 project, I used Ecklers restoration formula (a polyester resin with MEKP hardener) to bond a new hood surround to fenders (press molded hood surround to original fenders). See photos.
First ever Corvette body work and paint job, so all feedback and help is very welcome.
Question: I used some of the restoration formula to fill in a low spots in the hood and also elsewhere as a body filler. Is this ok??? I believe restoration formula is a vette panel adhesive and Ecklers says you can primer/paint over the sanded restoration formula.
I plan to use 80grit to shape all of this by hand sanding back to original contours (lucky I have a 68 as a pattern to use). Also I have made some contour gauges out of plastic bondo spreaders to get back to original shape (Thanks DUB for the contour gauge idea).
I also have some Ecklers body filler which is
also a polyester material to do the final body filler work and finishing.
All suggestions are welcome!
Thanks!
First ever Corvette body work and paint job, so all feedback and help is very welcome.
Question: I used some of the restoration formula to fill in a low spots in the hood and also elsewhere as a body filler. Is this ok??? I believe restoration formula is a vette panel adhesive and Ecklers says you can primer/paint over the sanded restoration formula.
I plan to use 80grit to shape all of this by hand sanding back to original contours (lucky I have a 68 as a pattern to use). Also I have made some contour gauges out of plastic bondo spreaders to get back to original shape (Thanks DUB for the contour gauge idea).
I also have some Ecklers body filler which is
also a polyester material to do the final body filler work and finishing.
All suggestions are welcome!
Thanks!
Last edited by 20mercury; 11-12-2014 at 11:46 AM.
#2
Race Director
I have NOT used this specific product. BUT...I have used a similar product that uses MEKP to activate the adhesive....and what I do know about it is that I have to take my infra-red heat lamps and really heat up the area that i use this type of product in.
The reason is that I want to get this adhesive HOTTER than what the sun can do...so I can get it to cure totally out....and not have shrinkage in the future due to the area getting heated up by the sun.
ALSO...due to using a clear MEKP to active this adhesive....it is REALLY HARD to tell if you have it all mixed up THOROUGHLY due to the material does not change color ( maybe it does...like I wrote...I do not use it).
SO using it as a filler to fill in areas is up to you and how well it works for you. I myself would not...but that is just me and I have an adhesive I use that I know a lot about and have used for over 30 years.
I will write this....When you go to spread out any filler....it is always a good practice to make sure the area you plan to spread it out is prepped...and when you apply it...try not to get it on un-prepped surfaces....such as paint. The reason being....and I have seen it many times at other shops....the filler gets blocked and some of it is still on un-prepped surface and they send it into the booth for priming....knowing good and well that it can not stick for long.
I know the photo's you posted are the beginning process...just passing along tips that can possibly help you out.
DUB
The reason is that I want to get this adhesive HOTTER than what the sun can do...so I can get it to cure totally out....and not have shrinkage in the future due to the area getting heated up by the sun.
ALSO...due to using a clear MEKP to active this adhesive....it is REALLY HARD to tell if you have it all mixed up THOROUGHLY due to the material does not change color ( maybe it does...like I wrote...I do not use it).
SO using it as a filler to fill in areas is up to you and how well it works for you. I myself would not...but that is just me and I have an adhesive I use that I know a lot about and have used for over 30 years.
I will write this....When you go to spread out any filler....it is always a good practice to make sure the area you plan to spread it out is prepped...and when you apply it...try not to get it on un-prepped surfaces....such as paint. The reason being....and I have seen it many times at other shops....the filler gets blocked and some of it is still on un-prepped surface and they send it into the booth for priming....knowing good and well that it can not stick for long.
I know the photo's you posted are the beginning process...just passing along tips that can possibly help you out.
DUB
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Much thanks for the response!
I have NOT used this specific product. BUT...I have used a similar product that uses MEKP to activate the adhesive....and what I do know about it is that I have to take my infra-red heat lamps and really heat up the area that i use this type of product in.
The reason is that I want to get this adhesive HOTTER than what the sun can do...so I can get it to cure totally out....and not have shrinkage in the future due to the area getting heated up by the sun.
ALSO...due to using a clear MEKP to active this adhesive....it is REALLY HARD to tell if you have it all mixed up THOROUGHLY due to the material does not change color ( maybe it does...like I wrote...I do not use it).
SO using it as a filler to fill in areas is up to you and how well it works for you. I myself would not...but that is just me and I have an adhesive I use that I know a lot about and have used for over 30 years.
I will write this....When you go to spread out any filler....it is always a good practice to make sure the area you plan to spread it out is prepped...and when you apply it...try not to get it on un-prepped surfaces....such as paint. The reason being....and I have seen it many times at other shops....the filler gets blocked and some of it is still on un-prepped surface and they send it into the booth for priming....knowing good and well that it can not stick for long.
I know the photo's you posted are the beginning process...just passing along tips that can possibly help you out.
DUB
The reason is that I want to get this adhesive HOTTER than what the sun can do...so I can get it to cure totally out....and not have shrinkage in the future due to the area getting heated up by the sun.
ALSO...due to using a clear MEKP to active this adhesive....it is REALLY HARD to tell if you have it all mixed up THOROUGHLY due to the material does not change color ( maybe it does...like I wrote...I do not use it).
SO using it as a filler to fill in areas is up to you and how well it works for you. I myself would not...but that is just me and I have an adhesive I use that I know a lot about and have used for over 30 years.
I will write this....When you go to spread out any filler....it is always a good practice to make sure the area you plan to spread it out is prepped...and when you apply it...try not to get it on un-prepped surfaces....such as paint. The reason being....and I have seen it many times at other shops....the filler gets blocked and some of it is still on un-prepped surface and they send it into the booth for priming....knowing good and well that it can not stick for long.
I know the photo's you posted are the beginning process...just passing along tips that can possibly help you out.
DUB
Much thanks for the response. I will call the Ecklers rep in Oregon to double check on filler use. This stuff is hard as a rock and I can tell the adhering difference when some of it is on sanded, roughed up fiberglass vrs on paint, so thanks for that advice. It is advertised as paintable so should be ok. Shrinkage is a good question though, with as slow as I am and winter here, probably will not be close to painting until spring, so it should have a number of months to cure. Will see how it does. I would think somebody here has used Ecklers restoration formula and might know more.
#4
Race Director
Much thanks for the response. I will call the Ecklers rep in Oregon to double check on filler use. This stuff is hard as a rock and I can tell the adhering difference when some of it is on sanded, roughed up fiberglass vrs on paint, so thanks for that advice. It is advertised as paintable so should be ok. Shrinkage is a good question though, with as slow as I am and winter here, probably will not be close to painting until spring, so it should have a number of months to cure. Will see how it does. I would think somebody here has used Ecklers restoration formula and might know more.
Hopefully the guy you contact will tell you the straight deal on it...and if it were me...knowing that Eckler's are not the ones actually making it...I would contact the tech dept of the company that actually makes the stuff. With persistence...I have had my phone call get transferred to the lab and actually talk to the chemist(s) who make and test the stuff. That is up to you.
DUB