71frameoff

fixing small cracks and seams. what weight of matt should I buy?

DUB

I use ounce and a half matt. Then it will depends on the crack....on how to use the matt....that is what makes the difference.

The cloth can be used on the underside for linear strength....but NEVER on the top surface.

DUB

71frameoff

Thanks

egnuol

DUB, why shouldn't you use mat on the surface? Thanks
Darrel

DUB

READ my post again CAREFULLY! I DID NOT WRITE that MAT should not be used on the top surface.

CLOTH and MAT are two different type of materials.

DUB

egnuol

Sorry, I didn't read it correctly.

DUB

No problem....It happens to me quite often.

DUB

Steve59

Dub

Never knew that there was a difference. What is the difference? I've used the terms interchangeably and apparently have been incorrect.
Steve

DUB

Mat is the material that the strands of fiberglass are all pressed together to make the 'fabric'...and the strands go every which way possible and have NO SET pattern. It saturates easily when the resin is applied and PROPERLY worked into it.

Cloth is just that. It is a woven cloth that has a a pattern when woven that looks like a screen for a screen door. This type of material has very good linear strength...and I use it under panels for added strength when possible because it can form easily to complex curves and body rolls. The down side to using the cloth is that it is tricky to get saturated correctly. It may seem to be saturated...but is not.

DUB

Steve59

Dub:

THANK YOU. Learn something every day.
Steve

egnuol

I was told, after joining and adhering two panels together, to bevel back a ways on them and put a strip of matt in there to add strength. How do you do it? Thanks
Darrel

DUB

This is a 'trick' question.

When you write..."adhering two panel together'...what EXACTLY do you mean?

IF you are for example: Cutting a fender because the front is damaged and you got a partial panel. SO you cut off the damaged section and plan on joining it where you cut it. I honestly do not do that. Stress in some panels can cause for failure and with the wheel well lip...the repair can find a starting point and a crack can begin...and that is even if you use a bonding strip behind the two panels much like GM did.

IF is it crack in a panel and you got the crack back together. YES...after my initial process of holding the crack together..I will grind the backside and apply my mat and resin and finish it out in the cloth. Then do what I do on the exterior.

So unless I know exactly what you are doing...unless I explained your scenario above...It can be a YES and a NO.....it all depends.

DUB

egnuol

DUB,
To remove fender flares on a my '65, I will replace the entire quarter panels. I will be using the original bonding strips and door posts. The fronts will have a repair panel replacement including the parking light and back to the front louver. They will go up to about 2" below the crown on the surround. The fronts will have to have a fabricated bonding strip on top and some on the front around the parking light.
Thanks, Darrel

DUB

Can you post a photo(s)??? It would help.

Bonding the new fender and using the bonding strips...you do not need to laminate any mat and resin. I use a bonding adhesive and have never had a problem. EVER!

As for the section ...which I would need a photo of....EITHER...

Fabricate up bonding strips and using the same bonding adhesive...bond it in place so the section can be bonded in....which is the route I would take IF getting to the backside of the area where the panel is sectioned in is hard to get to and laminate up properly.... OR...

If the areas is easily accessible...bond it in temporarily and then laminate it from the underside and then finish it out on the top side with the bonding adhesive.

Evercoats Vette Panel Adhesive is what I would use. Part # 870 for the quart and part # 880 for the gallon.

Also...depending on if you have enough panel from what you cut off. Sometimes you can use a section of the panel right beside of what you cut off to aid in making a bonding strip...because it will often times be in the shape already and may just need to have a layer or two of mat and resin applied to it to give it some more strength.

DUB

egnuol

I will work on the pictures. The quarter panels seem to be the easier of the two(front vs. rear). I think I will be OK there but the front repair panels will be a little more difficult. The area around the parking light will be the most difficult since it is harder to access. I thought I could fabricate a bonding strip where possible and use mat AFTER I bonded the entire panel. There was not enough waste to use for a new bonding strip because it took the entire repair panel to cover what was cut out for the flares. I already the gun from another wood project and have already bought Lord Fusor 127EZ for the adhesive. Should I consider using Evercoat ?
Thanks DUB,
Darrel

DUB

I use LORD FUSOR products...but NOT on a car like yours. I ONLY use LORD FUSOR on the doors of a C3 and a C4 and later models where there are NO exposed seams.

You can apply masking tape to the part and apply mat and resin to it and make a bonding strip right off the panel before it is cut. You can lightly apply a coat of wax to the tape to make it come off easier....and seeing how it will be the backside of the bonding strip...it will not matter.

DUB

egnuol

DUB
Here are a few pictures

DUB

Are you planning on cutting off the rest of the lower fender where the vents are???? IF NOT...then from what I see it will take a few days to get it in and laminated from the outside well enough for you to attempt to get to the underside and do what laminating that will allow you to get to.

Having the fender cut at the bonding point of the inner skirt at the rear is going to be FUN to say the least.

This is going to take some precise prepping and laminating to get it solid enough so it will not come back...and a lot of that also will have to do with your resin and being able to make sure it is cured out so when you go and grind the outer lamination and fill over it with VPA...you know you have a solid repair.

You could do you initial lamination form the underside...and I have 'tricks' on making sure the panel will stay....but that is up to you and WILL NOT be able to be laminated in just one step....this is going to take some laminating and it will be over a few days (easily) as I mentioned before.

I wish your repair panel was the full lower fender.

DUB

egnuol

DUB
I already have the repair panel cut and fitted to that hole that you see. The louver panel is still glued to the inner fender. I was careful to grind away the flare panel midway at that point. The repair panels were just large enough to fit . I didn't have much to cut off or trim. It SURE would have been good to have a complete panel but this is what I have to work with. I'm willing to hear what IDEAS you have to laminate. Would it be better to remove the inner fender panel and do the laminating? I will be away until this evening. Thanks
Darrel

DUB

Darrel,
I do not think that removing the inner skirt is a good move.

PM me if you want my phone number...because I am not going to type for hours and try to cover all concerns and techniques.

DUB