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Need to know what you are planning to shoot on it...The red paint again and clear...or strictly CLEAR.
What does this area of concern look like when you wipe it with 'wax and grease remover' or water. DO these areas DISAPPEAR...or are dark spots or white spots still in the finish that you can see????
What you see in the finish will then dictate what you 'should' apply next....BUT...that ALSO depends on IF the surface is READY for something to be applied on it. I know the surface has been sanded with 600 WET...but that DOES NOT mean 'jack squat' IF when you wipe the surface and look at it form the side angle and can CLEARLY see the pinholes STILL in the finish.
Typing out the different repair methods is pointless for me at this time because I need to know how the paint looks when WET...and I do not care about if the pinholes are still there...I am more worried the pinholes.
Whatever you do...if at all possible is NOT to break through the clear and get back into your base color...IF AT ALL POSSIBLE.
Yes I went through the clear in a few spots but not through color. Some pinholes still show when wiped with G&W remover or wet. I was just out and got most of it down. Most of the car is now flat and what pinholes are left I'll hit again tomorrow morning.
DUB, Great talking to you and thank you for all the info. In fear of having the paint come up a year from now in the areas I went through the clear. I'm thinking I'll just put another coat of epoxy primer over all to be safe. The weather up here is going to perfect this weekend with humidity hovering around 45% & temps in the 70's.
Do as you want. But I would not if it were me. No benefit in applying an epoxy in this scenario. Logic would command that you apply the same material that you sanded through...which is the clear....and applying another product can cause for an issue IN TIME....where the clear will be happy being applied back onto itself. BUT...do whatever makes you happy.
I would do as like we talked about in getting in the pinholes filled in as I described and then actually applying a coat of clear to get it uniform coverage....then allow it to dry...then prep it and IF needed...blend in some red and clear that again.
I have had to repair issues JUST LIKE THIS...and I have tried it different ways...and I described to you how I would repair it as if it were in my shop with this problem.
Your 'fear' that paint will come up...is a fear that is unsupported due to it never happening to you in the past....and I am attempting to let you have the benefit of 30 years of being an honorary member of the 'school of hard knocks'.
Sorry DUB for clarifying I missed the clear first. So just to make sure areas like below where I went through to primer should be cleared before color.
So just to make sure areas like below where I went through to primer should be cleared before color.
NO...... this is different because you went though the COLOR.
This is when you CAREFULLY blow on some color and NOT get it sopping wet...and then clear that.
if you basecoat reacts with the outer ring of clear that you sanded through( due to applying too much base color at one time)....you might want to give it a day to dry and then sand that back flat and if needed ...blow on some more color and then clear that.
Thanks DUB, I was finally able to get back at this after a bout with back again.
I had two spots that I added more VPA on the cowl do to my initial repair cracked a little on both sides in the very back when I accidentally drop the hood when closing it rather than setting it down and pushing on each corner to get it to latch which I will have to do going forward. I used the epoxy primer in those areas then color.
I also blew in color (ever so little at a time) on the spots that I went down to primer then shot the clear.
Here’s what it looked like up close after my first attempt.
And now!
Unfortunately I thought I had enough clear leftover but found out differently. Started with the hood then to the passenger side and ran out as I started the driver’s door. I’ll have to sand part of the door back down to 600 to get the spurts of clear off and purchase more clear.
After seeing how well it’s turning out I think I’ve already talked myself in doing the same for the rest of the body parts that I thought I was going to be able to salvage. There not nearly as bad as the hood was but I’ll still notice the difference if I leave them as is.
I MAY SOMEDAY BE ABLE TO DRIVE THIS CAR INSTEAD OF WORK ON IT.
YEP...might as well treat every panel the same and apply the clear and get the result that you have seen you can get.
You will be driving it before you know it and you will BE HAPPY you did what you did to it instead of settling for something that you know is not your best.
Yup, I might be slow but it's turning out to be worth all the hard work sanding and re-shooting of color and clear to achieve the results I'm trying to get.
I took her out of the both to get a get look to make sure I was satisfied.
I think I can finally say I'll be moving on to the bumpers, ground effects and so on.
Lookign good...I can tell it is going to come out REALLY NICE!!!
NOW...this is when all the work that you did in the body repairs is SO CRITICAL...because as hard as you have worked on getting the color and clear right...it WOULD SUCK if some body repairs came back up due to NOT beign done correctly. Which is why I am SO PICKY on what is done so I do not have a great paint job ruined by bad body work.
Thanks Dub, unfortunately I do have two small indentations I didn't catch. I may go back and spot them but that won't happen for awhile. It's time to finish everything else and put her back together so I can put a few miles on the engine I built two years winters ago.
05-04-2016, 05:30 PM
