grumman41

I'm currently try to decide exactly how I am going to align my rear clip for bonding. I will be bonding the rear clip as a "unit", this includes deck,Left and Right quarters and rear valance.

As for a front to back I will be using the top edge that meets the t-tops and the edge that meets the doors.

Concerning side to side, the "joggles" or offsets in the bonding strips get the lateral alignment within 1'8" from side to side.

My main concern is the height of the rear most part of the clip. The rear bumper supports ( outer and middle) have a lot of adjustment so these can't really be used.

Once I know where to "align" to, my plan is to build a wood jig so I know exactly where to position and use the jig to put pressure on the seams as needed, I don't want to drill holes or use screws.

Thanks for the input, Kevin

DUB

Kevin...were you just commenting on what you were thinking...or needing feedback???

If you are running into an issue of the clip not laying out like what you need...or the amount of adhesive that was located in specific areas where it was bonded is not eh same...PLEASE reply with a concern.

DUB

grumman41

DUB,

My main concern relating to alignment is understanding what the height of the very rear of the clip should be. With the clip resting on the bonding strips, there is still room to move the very back of the clip up and down about 1/2" without really varying the distance between the rear bonding strip ( right in front of the fuel filler opening).

Kevin

DUB

You are getting caught up into too much 'stuff'. You can agree that GM used shims and allows for bumper bracket to be adjusted ....correct? AND with rear spring ans such...if you went and measures out a hundred of the same model Corvettes that you have...they would be different or in a range. If the fuel tank is empty and then filled up...this measurement will change.. DO not get caught up in 'these' type of numbers...it will make you crazy. Go with what looks good. HECK...even GM has the +/- measurements when checking heights.

Knowing that IF measurements were NOT taken BEFORE the rear clip came off. Then it is a matter of HOPING that the adhesive build/thickness that was used by GM to this rear clip was noticed...and when the flange was prepped...some of it was left as a shim or gauge. IF that was not done....then it is a matter of NOT getting so WORRIED about this measurement. I KNOW you want it right...but as long as it is level and all bonding seams are allowing adhesive to go in there and they are not so tight that you can not slide a piece of paper through them.... all I would be concerned about is HOW does the rear clip set with the rubber boot around the fuel door area. AND if I can bolt up and USE all of the bumper brackets and HOPEFULLY get them back in the wittiness marked areas where they show they were installed....if measurements WERE NOT taken.

SERIOUSLY a half of an inch in this area is not a lot...and would actually be very visibly hard to see. Like I would walk by your Corvette and say to you: "OH Kevin...by the way...I can see your rear tail area of your Corvette is 1/2' too high....what a bummer...such a nice Corvette". YEAH RIGHT...like that is going to happen. I have a good eye...I really do....but there is to a point where I KNOW that these cars are NOT prefect. Just get it looking good and not buckles in the panels and 'THINGS' look good. And if you get caught up in the 'numbers'....because you JUST HAVE TO. Make sure one of your family members or friends has your Corvette Forum pa sword so they can tell us you ave been sent to the PSYC WARD..and we can come by and talk with you while your are drooling onto your shirt. Only commenting form experience....not that I was in the PSYC WARD...but getting caught up in some 'numbers' that are really pointless.

DUB

grumman41

Thanks DUB, It sounds like I am over thinking this but its better to ask than have a huge mess. I'm a corporate pilot and have helped family members-friends with kit aircraft construction where alignment is extremely critical and jigs are used for everything.

Kevin

zwede

I can tell you my '71 left the factory with one side of the rear clip bonded 1/2" higher than the other side. There were also foot long stretches over the wheels where there was not enough adhesive to seal and dirt, water and noise made it into the cabin.

So that's the kind of job the factory was capable of.

DUB is right, of course. Lay it out so that it looks good. Step back a ways and look at the car in profile. Make sure it looks straight. Then bond it on.

grumman41

Thanks for the input, I am going to remount the fuel tank to check the fuel opening and then let the fur fly.

I decided on using the "Fusor" instead of Evercoat to give me more time for alignment and clamping as I'm doing this by myself.

Kevin

DUB

Kevin. You might want it re-think this. When the FUSOR comes out of your seams at the T-top/sail panel area...and where the quarters are attached at the doors. The adhesive can be solvent sensitive. I know I WOULD NOT use it in those areas...thus I would be using the Vette Panel Adhesive or the SMC Panel Adhesive from Evercoat.

Just saying....this new style of adhesive is used under panels and where exterior exposure is not seen because it would be covered by a molding or other part.

And it is not that hard to figure out your mix and you can actually give yourself all the time you need. Seriously...how much time would it take to get the clip on and clamped into place. As I have written before..I had a front clip take 3 days to go to total cure using the SMC Panel Adhesive on a 1863 I was working on.

Obviously it is your car...and if you use the FUSOR adhesive..I wish you the best of luck.

DUB

grumman41

DUB, Thanks for the input.....I'll do some test batches but the Evercoat i have mixed up seems to set up fairly quick and the temps in my shop where only in the 60 to 65F range.

I'm still "learning" the mix ratios and will experiment with less hardner.

Kevin